You're staring at that spare room, or maybe your studio apartment, thinking there has to be a better way to live than tripping over a guest bed you use twice a year. It's a common struggle. Space is expensive. That's why the full size murphy bed with mattress has made such a massive comeback lately. But here’s the thing: most people treat buying one like buying a standard piece of furniture, and that is a recipe for a literal headache—and a metaphorical one for your wallet.
Getting this right isn't just about the frame. It's about the physics of the lift mechanism and the specific height of the foam. If you buy a mattress that’s an inch too thick, the bed won't close. If it’s too light, the pistons might send the bed flying back toward the wall like a catapult. Honestly, it's a bit of a science project.
The Weighty Issue of the Mattress
Let's talk about gravity. Most people assume they can just throw any old mattress onto a Murphy frame. You can’t. Standard Murphy beds, like those from reputable brands such as Lori Bed or Bestar, rely on either springs or gas pistons. These are calibrated.
If you get a full size murphy bed with mattress combo that isn't balanced, you’re going to have a bad time. Piston-driven beds need the weight of the mattress to stay down. Use a mattress that is too light—say, a cheap, thin inner-spring—and the bed might actually start to lift on its own while you’re brushed your teeth. On the flip side, if you go for a heavy, 14-inch luxury pillow-top, you might find yourself doing a deadlift just to put your bed away in the morning.
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Weight matters. Usually, you’re looking for a mattress that weighs between 45 and 80 pounds for a full-size frame. Most manufacturers, including Wall Bed Central, suggest a maximum thickness of 10 to 12 inches. Go beyond that and the bed frame will hit the wall before it fully closes, leaving a gap that looks terrible and ruins the "hidden" aesthetic.
Why Full Size Over Queen?
It's about the footprint. A queen is the standard, sure. But in a small home office or a tight guest room, those extra six inches of width provided by a full-size bed make a world of difference for floor flow.
A full-size mattress is 54 inches wide by 75 inches long. A queen is 60 by 80. While five inches of length doesn't sound like much, in a room that is only 10 feet deep, that extra length can be the difference between being able to walk around the foot of the bed or having to shimmy against the wall.
Full size is the "goldilocks" zone. It's big enough for two adults who like each other, and it's plenty of room for a single sleeper. Plus, the vertical height of the cabinet is shorter. This means you have more options for where to put it without hitting ceiling fans or low-hanging light fixtures.
The "Mattress Slump" Nobody Warns You About
This is the dirty secret of the Murphy bed world. When a mattress sits vertically for 23 hours a day, gravity pulls the internal components toward the bottom. If you have a poorly made mattress, all the padding and the pocketed coils will eventually migrate.
You end up with a "lump" at the foot of the bed and a "void" at the head.
To avoid this, you need a mattress designed for vertical storage. Hybrid mattresses or high-density memory foam (like those from Tempur-Pedic or specialized Murphy-ready brands like Wilding Wallbeds) tend to hold their shape better because the materials are bonded or more cohesive. Traditional low-end innersprings are the worst offenders here. They just weren't built to stand on their heads.
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Hardware: Pistons vs. Springs
You’ll see two main types of "lift" when shopping for a full size murphy bed with mattress.
Piston systems use compressed gas. They are smooth. They are quiet. They are also usually not adjustable. If your mattress doesn't fit the weight tension of the piston, you’re stuck.
Spring systems are old-school. They look a bit more industrial, but they are incredibly reliable. The best part? You can add or remove springs to perfectly counter-balance the weight of your specific mattress. If you decide to upgrade to a heavier mattress later, you just pop an extra spring on the mechanism. It's DIY-friendly and lasts for decades.
Some modern "Lori" style beds use no mechanism at all. You just lift it yourself. It’s cheaper, and there are no moving parts to break, but you better have some decent upper body strength. It's basically a wooden box you're pivoting on the floor.
Real Talk on Installation
Don't let the Instagram ads fool you. Installing a Murphy bed is a two-person job. Minimum.
You are essentially building a closet and then anchoring it to your wall studs. If you don't anchor it correctly, the tension of the springs can literally pull the cabinet off the wall and onto your head. This has happened. It's not a joke.
You need to find at least three studs. You need a "real" drill, not a tiny handheld one. And you need to be okay with the fact that you’re going to be putting some sizeable holes in your drywall. If you're a renter, check your lease. Most landlords aren't keen on you anchoring 200 pounds of wood and steel to the infrastructure.
The Floor Factor
Most people forget about baseboards. If your room has thick, decorative baseboards, the Murphy bed cabinet won't sit flush against the wall. You'll have to either cut the baseboard or buy a bed with a "baseboard notch." Most high-end retailers offer this, but the cheap ones you find on big-box sites usually don't.
Also, think about your flooring. If you have a thick, plush carpet, the bed might settle over time, which can throw off the alignment of the doors. Hardwood or laminate is always the better foundation for these units.
Living with the Choice
So, what is it actually like to use one every day?
Honestly, it changes your relationship with your home. There is a psychological shift that happens when you "put the bed away." The room transforms. It stops being a bedroom and starts being a studio, a gym, or an office.
But you have to be the kind of person who makes their bed. If you don't make the bed and strap the mattress down, you can't close it. The Murphy bed forces a certain level of discipline on you. For some, that's a plus. For others, it's a daily chore that eventually leads to the bed just staying down all the time, defeating the entire purpose.
What to Look for Right Now
If you're ready to pull the trigger, focus on these three things:
- The Warranty: Does it cover the mechanism for life? The wood might scratch, but the pistons should never fail.
- The Mattress Material: Avoid "soft" edges. You want a mattress with "edge support." This keeps the mattress from sagging off the frame when you're sleeping near the side.
- The Box: Is it solid wood or particle board? Particle board (MDF) is fine for a bookshelf, but for something that holds a human's weight and moves daily, it can crack at the pressure points over time. Plywood or solid wood is the gold standard.
Actionable Steps for the Smart Buyer
Before you click "buy" on that full size murphy bed with mattress, do these three things:
- Measure your ceiling height twice. Then measure the "swing" distance. This is how much floor space the bed needs to actually open. People often forget that they have a desk or a chair in the way.
- Check your wall type. If you have metal studs (common in high-rise condos) or plaster-and-lath (common in old homes), you cannot use standard wood screws. You will need specialized toggles or professional help.
- Weight the mattress. If you already have a mattress you love, put it on a scale. Compare that number to the "lifting capacity" of the bed frame you're looking at. If they don't match, you're going to have a bed that either slams shut or won't stay closed.
A Murphy bed is an investment in your square footage. It's essentially an architectural renovation you can take with you when you move. Treat it with that level of respect, and it’ll be the best piece of furniture you’ve ever owned.