You’ve probably seen the line. It snakes down Manhattan Avenue in Greenpoint, a mix of bleary-eyed locals in beanies and tourists clutching phones, all waiting for a chance to stand inside a space that feels like it’s been there for eighty years. But here’s the thing: Frankel's Delicatessen & Appetizing hasn't even hit its tenth birthday. It opened in 2016. In New York deli years, that’s basically infancy.
So why does it feel like a landmark? Honestly, it’s because the Frankel brothers—Zach and Alex—managed to do something that most "concept" restaurants fail at miserably. They didn't try to reinvent the wheel. They just made the wheel really, really well using better ingredients than your average corner bodega.
The Upper West Side Soul in North Brooklyn
If you grew up in New York, or even if you’ve just spent enough time stalking Zabar’s or Barney Greengrass, you know the vibe. It’s the "appetizing" tradition—the smoked fish, the cream cheese, the ritual of the Sunday morning bagel run. The Frankels grew up on the Upper West Side, and that DNA is everywhere in this shop.
Alex Frankel might be known to some as one-half of the synth-pop duo Holy Ghost!, but at the deli, he’s just one of the guys making sure the matzo ball soup doesn't suck. Zach, with a background at spots like Jack’s Wife Freda, brought the culinary discipline. They didn't hire a massive design firm to make it look "vintage." They just used common sense, white subway tiles, and a blue-rimmed aesthetic that feels permanent.
It’s a tiny footprint. You’re cramped. You’re probably going to eat your sandwich on a bench in McCarren Park because there’s nowhere to sit. And yet, people keep coming back.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Menu
A lot of people think a deli is just a deli. They walk in and expect a five-pound mountain of meat like you’d get at Katz’s. If that’s what you want, go to Houston Street. Frankel's Delicatessen & Appetizing is more surgical. It’s about the "appetizing" side as much as the "deli" side.
Take the Frankel’s #1. It’s pastrami salmon, scallion cream cheese, and dill cucumber salad on a bagel. It’s salty, fatty, and bright all at once. The pastrami salmon isn't just a gimmick; the spice rub on the fish actually stands up to the cream cheese. Most "modern" delis try to do too much. They put kimchi on things or try to make "deconstructed" latkes. Frankel’s just gives you a really good latke with applesauce and sour cream. Simple.
The Pastrami, Egg, and Cheese Factor
We need to talk about the breakfast sandwich. The Pastrami, Egg, and Cheese on a challah roll is arguably the most famous thing they make. It’s a heavy hitter.
- The Bread: They use a soft, slightly sweet challah roll that doesn't fight back when you bite it.
- The Meat: Hand-cut pastrami that’s steamed until it’s basically velvet.
- The Cheese: Good old American cheese. Don't ask for Swiss. It won't melt the same way.
It’s a $15+ breakfast sandwich, which sounds insane until you eat it and realize you don’t need to eat again until Tuesday.
The Celebrity Gravity
Because of Alex’s music background and the shop’s general "cool" factor, the celebrity sightings are a regular thing. Justin Bieber and Hailey Baldwin famously stopped by, sending the local neighborhood blogs into a total tailspin. Action Bronson—who knows a thing or two about Jewish soul food—is a regular.
But celebrities don't keep a deli alive for years. The "bubbes" do. You’ll still see older Jewish residents from the neighborhood standing in the same line as the guy in the $600 sneakers. That’s the real metric of success in New York food. If you can satisfy someone who remembers what the Lower East Side tasted like in 1960, you’re doing something right.
Why the "Appetizing" Label Matters
In New York food history, there’s a strict divide. Delis sell meat. Appetizing stores sell "the stuff that goes with bagels"—mostly fish and dairy. This dates back to Kosher laws where you didn't mix meat and milk.
Frankel's Delicatessen & Appetizing intentionally uses both words. They are a hybrid. You can get a brisket sandwich (meat) and a lox bagel (appetizing) under the same roof. For purists, this was a bit of a scandal when they first opened. For everyone else, it was just convenient.
They source their fish from Acme Smoked Fish, which is literally just a few blocks away in Greenpoint. It’s as local as it gets. The whitefish salad is smoky and chunky, not a pureed mess of mayo. The Nettie (Eastern Nova, dill cream cheese, horseradish beets) is a sleeper hit for anyone who wants something that feels a bit more sophisticated than a standard bagel with lox.
The Reality Check: Price and Wait Times
Let's be real for a second. Frankel's is not cheap. You’re looking at $20 for a pastrami sandwich. You’re looking at $12 for matzo ball soup. In a neighborhood where you can still find a $6 turkey sandwich at a bodega, this is a "treat" spot.
And the wait? On a Saturday morning, it can be brutal. The shop is small. The staff is working as fast as they can, but hand-slicing fish and meat takes time. If you show up at 11:00 AM on a Sunday, expect to wait 30 to 45 minutes.
Pro Tip: Go on a Tuesday at 2:00 PM. The vibe is chill, the sun hits the windows just right, and you can actually hear the music playing over the speakers without the roar of a crowd.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit
If you’re planning a trip to 631 Manhattan Ave, don't just wing it.
- Check the Specials: They often do limited runs of things like braised brisket or special holiday boxes.
- The Hot Dog Special: It’s one of the best deals in the shop. Two snappy all-beef dogs with mustard and sauerkraut plus a drink. It’s classic NY street food elevated.
- Take Home the Fish: If the line for sandwiches is too long, you can often buy containers of their salads or sliced fish to go. Grab a bag of bagels and have a better brunch at home.
- Drink the Coffee: It’s basic, hot, and cheap. It’s exactly what deli coffee should be.
Frankel's Delicatessen & Appetizing succeeded because it respected the past without being a museum. It’s a living, breathing part of Brooklyn that understands that sometimes, the most radical thing you can do is just make a really good sandwich.
If you're heading over there today, make sure to grab a side of the Dill Cucumber Salad. It’s the perfect acidic counterpoint to the heavy fats of the pastrami. Also, don't forget a Black and White cookie for the walk home—theirs are soft, cakey, and exactly how you remember them being as a kid.
Once you've had your fill at the counter, take a quick five-minute walk over to McCarren Park. It’s the unofficial dining room for Frankel’s, and there’s no better way to experience a Greenpoint morning than with a #1 bagel in your hand and a view of the skyline.