The 1980s were weird. One minute you’re watching Princess Diana drive a blacked-out hatchback to the gym, and the next, that same car is becoming the most stolen vehicle in Britain. We’re talking about the Ford Escort RS Turbo. It wasn't just a car; it was a socio-economic phenomenon wrapped in white paint and boosted by a Garrett T3. If you grew up in the UK or followed the European rally scene during the era of big hair and shoulder pads, this car was the holy grail of the "fast Ford" cult.
It was fast. Loud. Kinda dangerous if you didn't know what you were doing.
Basically, Ford took their humble family hauler, the Mark 3 Escort, and decided it needed to go racing in Group A. To do that, they had to sell 5,000 road-going versions to the public. What they created was the first ever front-wheel-drive Ford to wear the RS badge. It changed everything. It also broke a lot of gearboxes.
The Series 1: A Homologation Special That Felt Raw
The Series 1 (S1) is the one collectors lose their minds over now. Produced between 1984 and 1985, it was strictly a limited affair. You could have it in any color you wanted, as long as it was Diamond White. Unless, of course, you were Lady Diana, who famously had one in black.
Under the hood sat a 1.6-liter CVH engine. Now, the CVH wasn't exactly a masterpiece of engineering—it was often described as "thrummy" or just plain agricultural—but with a turbocharger bolted on, it produced 132 bhp. That sounds like nothing today when a modern hot hatch has 300+, but in 1984, it was enough to propel this tin box to 60 mph in about 8 seconds.
It felt faster than it was. Much faster.
The S1 was a bit of a handful because of the "mechanical" limited-slip differential. Ford used a Ferguson viscous LSD to try and manage the torque steer. It worked, mostly, but it also gave the car a physical, squirmy personality under hard acceleration. You didn't just drive an S1; you wrestled it. It had those iconic multi-spoke alloy wheels—which are a nightmare to clean—and those blue "RS Turbo" decals that screamed, "I’m probably going to get pulled over by the police."
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Why the Series 2 Changed the Game (and the Vibe)
By 1986, Ford realized they had a hit on their hands, so they softened things up for the Series 2 (S2). They wanted a car that more people could live with every day. The S2 looked a bit more modern, ditching the chunky arches of the S1 for a sleeker, more integrated body kit.
They also changed the turbo.
Instead of the water-cooled T3, they went with an air-cooled Garrett T2. It was smaller. It spooled up quicker. It made the car feel more "zippy" around town but arguably less "mental" on a backroad. The gearbox was also revised because, honestly, the early ones were made of chocolate.
The S2 became the darling of the "Max Power" generation. If you walked through a cruise in the late 90s, you’d see S2s with massive exhausts, dump valves that sounded like a sneezing giant, and more fiberglass than a boat yard. This is why finding a clean, unmolested S2 today is like finding a needle in a haystack—most were either crashed, stolen, or modified into oblivion.
The Reality of Owning a Ford Escort RS Turbo Today
Look, let’s be real for a second. If you buy one of these now, you aren't buying a refined driving machine. You’re buying a box of nostalgia that requires constant attention.
The rust is the big one.
Ford's rustproofing in the 80s was... optimistic. Check the battery tray. Check the fuse box area. If the rear arches haven't been replaced at some point, they probably don't exist anymore. Then there’s the KE-Jetronic fuel injection system. It’s a Bosch mechanical-electronic hybrid that works beautifully until it doesn't. When it fails, you need a specialist who speaks "80s German Engineering" to get it idling correctly again.
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But when it’s right? Man, it’s special.
There’s a specific smell to an old Ford interior—a mix of old plastic, velour Recaro seats, and a hint of unburnt fuel. You turn the key, the fuel pump primes with a distinct whine, and the engine settles into that slightly rough CVH idle. When the boost kicks in at around 3,000 RPM, you get that old-school turbo lag shove. It’s not linear. It’s not smooth. It’s a "wait for it... wait for it... THERE IT IS" kind of experience.
What to Look Out For Before Dropping Cash
- Matching Numbers: Because so many were stolen or engine-swapped, verify the VIN on the slam panel matches the logbook and the floor stamp.
- The "Tick": The CVH engine is famous for noisy tappets. A little tick is normal; a loud clacking means the camshaft is likely worn down to a pencil.
- Cracked Dashboards: The sun hates 80s Ford plastic. A mint, uncracked dashboard is worth its weight in gold.
- Previous "Tuning": If you see a manual boost controller (a "bleed valve") under the hood, run. It usually means someone has been running 20psi of boost on a standard bottom end.
The Cultural Impact: More Than Just a Car
The Ford Escort RS Turbo was the ultimate "aspirational" car for the working class. It represented a time when you could work a trade, save up your cash, and buy something that could genuinely outrun a contemporary Porsche in a straight line (or at least give it a fright).
It was the car of the "Essex Man." It was the car of the rally stage. It was the car that sat in your bedroom as a poster next to a Lamborghini Countach. While the Sierra Cosworth was the "Big Boss," the RS Turbo was the "Street Fighter." It was attainable, yet aggressive.
Jeremy Clarkson once noted that the Escort RS Turbo was a car for people who "wore their trousers very low." While that was a bit of a jab at the demographic, it highlighted how deeply the car was embedded in the youth culture of the time. It was loud, it was flashy, and it didn't care about your feelings.
Comparing the S1 and S2 (The Quick Dirty Version)
S1 owners will tell you their car is the "only real RS." They point to the limited production run and the homologation status. They love the stiff suspension and the raw delivery. S2 owners usually counter with the fact that their cars are actually usable. The S2 has better seats, a more refined (slightly) ride, and won't try to torque-steer you into a ditch every time it rains.
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Honestly? Both are great for different reasons. The S1 is an investment piece. You buy it, you polish it, you take it to shows. The S2 is the one you actually drive to a Sunday morning car meet.
Future Value and the Market
Prices have gone through the roof. Ten years ago, you could pick up a decent S2 for five grand. Those days are gone. Today, a concours-condition S1 can easily clear £60,000, and even high-mileage S2s are pushing toward the £20,000 mark.
Is it a bubble? Maybe. But the people who wanted these cars in 1988 finally have the money to buy them now. That’s a powerful market force. Collectors aren't looking for "the best car"; they’re looking for "the car they remember."
Essential Steps for Potential Buyers
If you’re serious about getting into RS ownership, don't go it alone. The "RS Owners Club" (RSOC) is your best friend. They have local registrars who know almost every surviving car's history. Join the forums. Ask the "dumb" questions.
Secondly, get an insurance quote before you buy. Many insurers still view the RS Turbo as a high-risk theft target, even though most are now kept in climate-controlled garages. You’ll likely need a specialist classic car policy with an agreed value.
Finally, check the coolant. If it looks like chocolate milk, the head gasket is on its way out. The CVH is prone to overheating if the cooling system isn't flushed regularly. It’s an easy fix, but a great bargaining chip if you’re standing there with cash in your pocket.
The Ford Escort RS Turbo remains a visceral reminder of an era when cars were simple, mechanical, and unapologetically bold. It doesn't have lane assist. It doesn't have traction control. It barely has brakes by modern standards. But it has a soul, and in a world of sanitized electric SUVs, that’s worth every penny of the "Ford Tax."
Actionable Next Steps for Enthusiasts
- Verify the Heritage: Before viewing a car, use a service like Experian or HPI to check the history, focusing specifically on "color changes" and "scrapped" markers which were common during the 90s theft craze.
- Inspect the Chassis Rails: Get the car on a lift. Rust starts from the inside out on these, especially where the rear subframe bolts up.
- Audit the Turbo: Check for blue smoke on overrun. A tired T3 or T2 turbo will let you know via the exhaust pipe long before it finally seizes.
- Join the Community: Attend a regional RS Owners Club meet to see the difference between "show cars" and "drivers" in person before deciding which path you want to take.