Drip. Drip. Drip. Honestly, that sound is enough to drive anyone up a wall at three in the morning. It’s not just the noise, though; it’s the literal money you’re watching slide down the drain. Most people assume they need to drop two hundred bucks on a plumber the second a handle starts acting up, but that's rarely the case.
Learning how to fix sink faucet issues is one of those basic "adulting" skills that feels intimidating until you actually see the guts of the thing. Faucets are remarkably simple machines. Most of them rely on a few rubber seals or a ceramic cartridge to hold back the water pressure. When those wear out—and they will, thanks to friction and mineral buildup—water finds a way through.
Identifying the Culprit Before You Grab the Wrench
You can’t just start cranking on things.
First, you have to know what kind of faucet you’re dealing with. Compression faucets are the old-school variety with two separate handles for hot and cold. They use a literal screw mechanism to squash a rubber washer against a seat. If it leaks, that washer is almost certainly toast. Then you have the "washerless" types: ball faucets, cartridge faucets, and ceramic disks. These are what you’ll find in most modern kitchens.
Check where the water is coming from. If it’s leaking from the spout, your internal seals are gone. If it’s leaking from the base of the handle when you turn it on, the O-ring or the packing nut is probably the villain.
✨ Don't miss: How to Say How Are You in Swedish Without Sounding Like a Textbook
The "Oh No" Moment: Turning Off the Water
This is the part everyone forgets until they have a geyser in their face. Look under the sink. You’ll see two oval-shaped valves. Turn them clockwise until they stop.
Don't skip this. Seriously.
Once the valves are closed, open the faucet handles to drain any remaining water and relieve the pressure. If those shut-off valves are stuck—which happens in older homes with "gate valves"—you might have to shut off the main water line for the whole house. It's a pain, but it's better than a flooded kitchen.
The Most Common Fixes for Kitchen and Bathroom Sinks
Most modern faucets, like those made by Moen or Delta, use a cartridge system. To fix sink faucet leaks in these models, you basically just swap the old cartridge for a new one.
Start by popping off the decorative cap on the handle. Usually, there's a tiny set screw inside. You'll need an Allen wrench (hex key) to loosen it. Once the handle is off, you'll see a metal dome or a nut holding the cartridge in place. Unscrew that, and you’re looking at the heart of the faucet.
Expert Tip: Take a photo of the cartridge before you pull it out. Some of them have specific orientations, and putting a new one in upside down means your "hot" and "cold" will be reversed.
If you have a Delta-style ball faucet, you’re looking at a different beast. These have a metal ball sitting on top of two rubber seats with springs. Over time, those springs lose their tension, or the rubber gets pitted by hard water. You don't usually need a whole new ball; just a $5 "seats and springs" kit from the hardware store usually does the trick.
Dealing with Mineral Buildup
Sometimes the leak isn't a leak at all—it's just a spray pattern that’s gone rogue. If your water is coming out at weird angles, the aerator at the very tip of the spout is clogged with calcium.
Unscrew it with your fingers. If it’s stuck, wrap a rubber band around it for grip or use a pair of pliers with a rag so you don't scratch the finish. Soak that little mesh screen in white vinegar for an hour. It’ll look brand new.
What Most People Get Wrong About DIY Plumbing
The biggest mistake? Over-tightening.
📖 Related: Why Women's Linen Crop Pants Are Actually The Only Thing Worth Wearing This Summer
I see this all the time. People think that if a leak is happening, they just need to crank the nut tighter. In reality, that usually just crushes the new rubber washer or cracks the plastic housing of a cartridge. You want things "snug," not "I need a bodybuilder to undo this" tight.
Another huge error is ignoring the "seat" in compression faucets. If you replace the washer but the metal seat it rests on is corroded or rough, the new washer will get shredded in weeks. You can buy a seat dresser tool for about ten bucks to smooth it out, or just replace the seat entirely if it’s removable.
Knowing When to Give Up
Sometimes, the faucet is just done.
If the body of the faucet is pitted or corroded from the inside, no amount of new parts will save it. If you’ve replaced the cartridge twice and it’s still weeping, the internal casting might be cracked. At that point, buying a new fixture is actually cheaper than the frustration of a third repair attempt.
Actionable Steps to Stop the Drip Today
- Dry the area completely. Wipe down the faucet and the counter. Wait ten minutes to see exactly where the water is bubbling up from. This saves you from fixing the wrong part.
- Locate your model number. Look for a small sticker on the cold water supply line under the sink. If it’s gone, take the old parts to the hardware store. Matching a cartridge by sight is a nightmare; matching it by holding it in your hand is easy.
- Clean as you go. While the faucet is apart, use an old toothbrush and vinegar to scrub away the gunk you can’t normally reach. It prevents future leaks caused by debris.
- Lubricate. Use a tiny bit of plumber’s grease (silicone-based) on new O-rings. It helps them slide into place without tearing.
- Test slowly. When you turn the water back on, don't just blast it. Open the valves under the sink halfway and check for leaks before going full pressure.
Once you’ve swapped the parts and tightened the retaining nut, replace the handle and the decorative cap. The silence is the best reward. No more rhythmic thumping from the bathroom, and no more wasting gallons of water every single day. Most faucet repairs take less than thirty minutes once you have the right parts in hand.