Devon is huge. If you’re staring at a map of England Devon and feeling a bit overwhelmed, you’re not alone. It’s the only county in England with two separate coastlines. That’s a lot of geography to swallow. People often lump it in with Cornwall, but Devon is its own beast entirely. It’s got the rugged, wind-whipped cliffs of the north, the English Riviera's palm trees in the south, and a massive, empty granite heart called Dartmoor right in the middle.
You can’t just "do" Devon in a weekend. Not really.
When you look at the map, you see the M5 motorway bleeding into the A38 and A30. These are the arteries. But the real Devon? That’s in the capillaries—the single-track lanes where the hedges are so high you can’t see the fields, and where you’ll inevitably have to reverse half a mile because you met a tractor coming the other way.
Understanding the "Two Seas" Layout
Look at the top of any map of England Devon and you’ll find the Bristol Channel. This is North Devon. It’s wild. Places like Croyde, Woolacombe, and Saunton Sands aren’t just beaches; they’re pilgrimage sites for surfers. The Atlantic swell hits this coast with a frequency that makes the South Coast look like a lake.
Then look south. The English Channel.
The vibe shifts completely. Here, the water is calmer. You’ve got the "Red Rock" coast around Dawlish and Teignmouth, where the Triassic sandstone gives the cliffs a blood-red hue. It’s softer. It’s where the Victorians built their grand seaside resorts. Torquay, Paignton, and Brixham form Torbay. It’s nicknamed the English Riviera, and while that might sound like a marketing gimmick, the microclimate is real. You’ll see genuine palm trees thriving in gardens because the air stays just that bit warmer.
The Empty Middle: Dartmoor vs. Exmoor
If the coasts are the bread, the moors are the filling. But they aren't the same.
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Dartmoor dominates the southern half of the county. It’s 368 square miles of raw, unbridled granite. When you see those cluster-like symbols on a map of England Devon, those are the Tors. High Willhays and Yes Tor are the big ones, both cresting over 600 meters. Dartmoor is famous for "letterboxing"—a precursor to geocaching—and for the fact that you can legally wild camp in specific zones, which is a rarity in England.
Exmoor, sitting up on the Somerset border, is different. It’s more about deep "combes" (valleys) and high coastal heaths. It’s where the woods meet the sea. If you’re looking at the map and wondering where the "Doone Valley" is, that’s Exmoor territory.
The Great City Divide: Exeter and Plymouth
You have two main urban hubs. They couldn’t be more different.
- Exeter: It’s the administrative heart. Ancient. Roman walls. A cathedral that’ll take your breath away with the longest uninterrupted medieval vaulted ceiling in the world. It feels like a "cathedral city."
- Plymouth: This is a maritime powerhouse. It’s built on salt water and naval history. This is where the Mayflower set sail. The Hoe offers one of the best natural harbor views on the planet.
Most travelers use Exeter as a gateway because the trains from London Paddington or Waterloo stop there first. But if you want to explore the South Hams—that posh, beautiful area around Salcombe and Dartmouth—you’re better off tracking the A38 toward Plymouth.
Why the Map Scale Lies to You
Distance in Devon is measured in time, not miles.
On a standard map of England Devon, it looks like a quick hop from the north coast to the south. It’s about 60 miles. In most of England, that’s an hour. In Devon? Give it two. Maybe more if it’s August and the "grockles" (the local term for tourists) have arrived. The roads aren't straight. They follow the contours of the land, winding around hills and dipping into valleys.
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You’ll see a village like Clovelly on the north coast. It looks accessible. But when you get there, you realize the village is essentially a vertical staircase paved with cobblestones. No cars. Just donkeys and sledges. The map doesn't show you the 400-foot drop.
The "South Hams" Secret
If you trace your finger along the bottom of the map, between Plymouth and Torbay, you’ll find the South Hams. This is arguably the most expensive real estate in the county.
Salcombe is the crown jewel here. It’s an estuary town, not a sea town. The water is turquoise. It looks like the Mediterranean on a sunny day. Then there's Dartmouth, sitting at the mouth of the River Dart. If you’re navigating by boat, the entrance to the Dart is narrow and flanked by castles. It’s incredibly dramatic.
Getting Lost in the "Culm"
Up in the northwest, near the border with Cornwall, is a region often ignored: the Culm Grassland. It’s wet, it’s marshy, and it’s ecologically vital. On a map, it looks like a whole lot of nothing. In reality, it’s home to the Marsh Fritillary butterfly and some of the quietest hiking trails in the UK. If you want to escape the crowds at Land's End or Stonehenge, this is where you go.
Practical Logistics for Your Devon Exploration
The rail network is lopsided. The main line hugs the south coast. The famous "Sea Wall" stretch at Dawlish is widely considered the most beautiful train journey in England. The spray literally hits the windows during a storm.
However, if you want to see the North, you’re limited. There’s the "Tarka Line" which runs from Exeter up to Barnstaple. It’s a lovely, slow chug through the countryside. But for anything else? You need a car. Or a very sturdy pair of boots.
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- Best for Families: The South Coast (Paignton, Sidmouth).
- Best for Solitude: Mid-Devon or the Hartland Peninsula.
- Best for Foodies: Totnes (weird, wonderful, and fiercely independent) or Brixham (fresh fish straight off the boats).
The geography of Devon dictates the lifestyle. The east is characterized by the Jurassic Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Here, you can literally pick up 185-million-year-old ammonites off the beach at Lyme Regis (right on the Dorset border) or Seaton. The west is defined by the Tamar Valley, a deep green trench that separates Devon from Cornwall.
Actionable Steps for Navigating Devon
Don't try to see both coasts in one trip unless you have at least ten days. You'll spend the whole time behind the wheel of a Vauxhall Corsa staring at a stone wall.
Instead, pick a quadrant.
If you choose the South, base yourself near Totnes. It’s central. You can hit the moors in twenty minutes and the coast in thirty. If you choose the North, look at Braunton or Appledore.
Download offline maps. Signal in the valleys of Exmoor or the depths of Dartmoor is non-existent. A paper Ordnance Survey map (specifically the OS Landranger series) is still the gold standard here. It shows the "contour lines" which are vital. A two-mile walk on flat ground is easy; a two-mile walk in Devon often involves climbing the equivalent of a skyscraper.
Check the tide times. This is crucial for the North Devon coast. Beaches like Broadsands or some of the coves near Ilfracombe can disappear entirely at high tide, leaving you cut off.
Lastly, understand the cream tea protocol. In Devon, it is cream first, then jam. Do not—under any circumstances—apply the jam first as they do in Cornwall. It is a matter of intense local pride and will likely result in a stern look from your server.
Navigate with respect for the narrowness of the roads, keep an eye on the fuel gauge when crossing the moors, and always give way to the cows. They were here first.