You’re standing in the hair care aisle, staring at a wall of "sulfate-free" and "co-wash" bottles. It’s overwhelming. You’ve probably seen a types of curls chart on Pinterest or tucked into the back of a SheaMoisture bottle, categorizing hair from 1A to 4C. It looks simple. You find your squiggle, buy the matching cream, and suddenly you have Disney princess hair, right?
Not exactly.
The hair typing system, originally popularized by Oprah’s longtime stylist Andre Walker in the 90s, was never meant to be a holy text. It was a marketing tool. Over time, the natural hair community expanded it, refined it, and—honestly—started arguing about it. While knowing if you’re a 2C or a 4A is a great starting point, it’s just one piece of the puzzle. If you’ve ever followed a tutorial for "3C hair" only to end up with a frizzy, crunchy mess, you already know that curl pattern isn't the only thing that matters.
Decoding the Types of Curls Chart
The chart is basically a sliding scale of texture. It starts at 1 (poker straight) and goes up to 4 (tightly coiled). Within those numbers, you have sub-types A, B, and C, which describe the diameter of the curl or wave.
The Type 2s: Waves and S-Shapes
Type 2 hair isn’t quite curly, but it’s definitely not straight.
- 2A is that barely-there tousled look. It’s fine, easy to flatten, and usually lacks volume at the root.
- 2B starts to show a clearer "S" shape, usually beginning a few inches away from the scalp.
- 2C is where things get tricky. These are thick, coarse waves that are prone to frizz. A lot of 2Cs actually think they have "bad" straight hair until they realize they just need some gel and a diffuser.
The Type 3s: Real-Deal Curls
This is the "corkscrew" territory.
Type 3A curls are big and loopy, roughly the width of a piece of sidewalk chalk. They’re shiny and usually have a lot of "spring." Then you have 3B, which is more like the circumference of a Sharpie. These curls are tighter and more prone to dryness because the scalp’s natural oils have a harder time traveling down the spiraled hair shaft.
3C hair is often called "curly-coily." These curls are densley packed and about the width of a pencil or a straw. If you have 3C hair, you probably deal with a massive amount of volume—which is awesome—but you also deal with significant shrinkage. Your hair might look shoulder-length when dry but reach your mid-back when wet.
👉 See also: Dave's Hot Chicken Waco: Why Everyone is Obsessing Over This Specific Spot
The Type 4s: Coils and Zig-Zags
Type 4 hair is the most fragile and the most versatile. Because the hair is so tightly coiled, it has the fewest cuticle layers, making it susceptible to breakage.
- 4A hair has a visible "S" pattern when stretched. The coils are tight, roughly the size of a crochet needle.
- 4B is less about circles and more about "Z" shapes. It’s wiry and sharp.
- 4C is the tightest of them all. It may not have a defined curl pattern at all without styling products. The shrinkage here is real—sometimes up to 75% of the actual length.
What the Chart Doesn't Tell You (And Why You're Frizzy)
Here’s the thing: you can have 3B curls with fine strands, or 3B curls with coarse, "horse-hair" strands. They need totally different products. This is where the types of curls chart usually fails people.
Porosity is actually more important than your curl number.
If you have high porosity hair, your hair cuticle is like a sponge with holes in it. It drinks up water fast but loses it just as quickly. You need heavy butters and oils to seal that moisture in. If you have low porosity hair, the cuticle is tightly shut like a roof shingle. Water literally beads up and rolls off your hair. If you put a heavy cream on low-porosity 3A curls, it’ll just sit on top, looking greasy and limp. You need heat to open that cuticle up during deep conditioning.
Then there’s density. Density is how many hairs are on your head per square inch. You can have Type 4C hair that is "low density," meaning your scalp is easily visible. Or you can have Type 2A hair that is so dense it takes six hours to air dry.
✨ Don't miss: Dating for 5 Years: Why the Five-Year Itch is Real (and How to Fix It)
The Myth of the Uniform Head
Most people don't have just one curl type. It’s a total myth.
It is incredibly common to have 3C curls at the nape of your neck, 4A on the crown, and maybe some weird 2C waves framing your face because of heat damage or just... genetics. Hair is weird. Treat the different sections of your hair based on what they need, not based on a single label you found on a chart. If the back is dryer, give it more leave-in. If the front is looser, use a stronger hold gel there.
Real-World Maintenance: Beyond the Labels
Expert stylists like Anthony Dickey, founder of Hair Rules, often argue that we focus too much on the "letter and number" and not enough on the health of the strand.
If you're using the types of curls chart to buy products, remember these general rules:
- Wavy (Type 2): Avoid heavy silicones. They weigh you down. Stick to mousses and light foams.
- Curly (Type 3): Look for humectants like aloe or honey, but watch out for humidity if you’re using glycerin.
- Coily (Type 4): Water is your best friend. Apply your products to soaking wet hair to lock in the hydration before it evaporates.
The "Curly Girl Method" (CGM), created by Lorraine Massey, changed the game for many, but even that isn't a one-size-fits-all. Some people need sulfates once a month to clear out buildup. Some people need silicones to protect against high heat. Don't let a "method" or a "chart" make you feel like you're doing your own hair wrong.
How to Test Your True Hair Profile
Stop guessing. Spend ten minutes doing these three things tonight:
🔗 Read more: Creative and Meaningful Will You Be My Maid of Honour Ideas That Actually Feel Personal
The Porosity Test: Take a clean, product-free strand of hair and drop it in a glass of water. If it floats after five minutes, you’re low porosity. If it sinks to the bottom immediately, you’re high porosity. If it lingers in the middle, you’re "normal."
The Feel Test: Rub a strand between your fingers. Does it feel like a silk thread (fine), a cotton thread (medium), or a piece of wire (coarse)? Coarse hair needs protein; fine hair usually hates it.
The Stretch Test: Take a wet strand and gently pull it. If it stretches a bit and bounces back, your protein-moisture balance is good. If it snaps immediately, you need moisture. If it stretches and stays limp like bubblegum, you’re over-moisturized and need a protein treatment.
Putting the Chart to Work
Once you've identified your general range on the types of curls chart, use it to find "hair twins" on YouTube or Instagram. Search for "Type 4A Low Porosity Routine" rather than just "curly hair routine." Specificity is the only way to cut through the noise.
Don't get hung up on the "C" vs "B" distinction if your hair is healthy. The chart is a compass, not a map. Your hair changes with the seasons, your hormones, and even the hardness of your local water.
Actionable Next Steps
- Audit your shower: Check your shampoo for harsh sulfates (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) if you are Type 3 or 4. If you're Type 2, check for heavy oils like castor or shea that might be dragging your waves down.
- Switch to microfiber: Stop rubbing your hair with a terry cloth towel. It raises the cuticle and creates frizz instantly. Use an old cotton T-shirt or a microfiber wrap.
- Document the journey: Take a photo of your hair after a wash day and note what products you used. In a month, you'll see patterns that no chart could ever tell you.
- Get a dry cut: If you want your curls to look their best, find a stylist who cuts hair while it’s dry. Curls don’t live at the same length when they’re wet, and a "wet cut" often leads to the dreaded "triangle head" shape.
Understanding your place on the curl spectrum is the first step toward stopping the fight with your natural texture. Stop trying to make your 2C waves look like 4A coils. Lean into what your hair actually wants to do, and the "good hair days" will start outnumbering the "ponytail days."