You’re standing in the grooming aisle. It’s a mess of bottles, waxes, and pomades that all claim to be "the one." Honestly, most guys just grab whatever smells like sandalwood and hope for the best. But then you wake up with a bird's nest or hair so greasy it looks like you’ve been working under a truck. The fix isn't a more expensive shampoo. It's actually understanding where you sit on the hair types men chart.
Most people think hair is just "thick" or "thin." That’s a mistake. Andre Walker, Oprah’s longtime stylist, actually pioneered the system we use today to categorize hair by texture and curl pattern. It’s not just for women. If you don't know if you're a 2A or a 4C, you're basically guessing every time you pick up a comb.
Why a Hair Types Men Chart Actually Matters for Your Routine
The André Walker Hair Typing System breaks hair down into four main categories. Think of it as a spectrum. On one end, you have Type 1, which is straight as an arrow. On the other, you have Type 4, which is tightly coiled. Each number has sub-categories (A, B, and C) that define how tight the wave or curl is.
If you have Type 1 hair, your scalp oils travel down the shaft easily. This means your hair gets oily fast. If you’re a Type 4, those oils get stuck at the roots because of the "coils," leaving your ends bone-dry. See the problem? Using a heavy, oil-based pomade on Type 1 hair is a disaster. Using a stripping, high-sulfate shampoo on Type 4 is equally bad.
Type 1: The Straight Reality
Type 1 hair is resilient. It’s hard to curl and usually has a lot of shine because the cuticle lies flat.
- 1A is very fine and thin. It’s rare in men who aren't of Asian descent and almost impossible to hold a style with.
- 1B has a bit more body. It’s what most "straight-haired" guys have.
- 1C is coarse. It’s straight, but it’s thick enough to have a mind of its own.
If you’re in this group, your biggest enemy is grease. You need "volume" products. Stay away from heavy waxes. A light sea salt spray or a matte clay is usually your best friend because it adds the grit that straight hair naturally lacks.
Type 2: The Wavy Middle Ground
This is where things get interesting. Type 2 hair isn't curly, but it definitely isn't straight. It has a distinctive "S" shape.
Type 2A is fine and easy to weigh down. It looks straight when short but gets a slight bend as it grows. 2B is a bit flatter at the crown but develops more defined waves toward the ends. Then there’s 2C. This is the "frizzy" zone. It’s thick, prone to poofing out in humidity, and often gets mistaken for curly hair.
Real talk: most guys with 2C hair think they just have "bad" hair. In reality, they're just brushing it too much. Brushing wavy hair when it's dry is the fastest way to look like a 1980s news anchor. Use a wide-tooth comb. Switch to a cream-based styler.
Navigating the Curls: Type 3 and Type 4
When we get into the hair types men chart for curls, the rules change completely. Texture becomes about moisture retention.
Type 3: The Classic Curl
Type 3 hair has a clear "O" shape or a corkscrew pattern.
📖 Related: Why the Term Papist Still Stings: The Messy History of a Religious Slur
- 3A curls are large and loose, roughly the diameter of sidewalk chalk.
- 3B curls are springier and smaller, like a Sharpie marker.
- 3C curls are densely packed "corkscrews" that have a lot of natural volume.
The issue here is shrinkage. Your hair might be six inches long, but it looks like three because of the curl. You need to stop using "standard" grocery store shampoos. They are loaded with sodium lauryl sulfate, which is basically dish soap. It kills your curls. Look for "Low-Poo" or "Co-wash" options.
Type 4: The Coiled Strength
Type 4 hair is often called "kinky" or "coily." It’s the most fragile hair type. Because the hair is so textured, it has fewer cuticle layers, making it prone to breakage.
- 4A has a visible "S" pattern when stretched.
- 4B has a "Z" shape—it’s more of a sharp angle than a curve.
- 4C is the tightest pattern. It can shrink up to 75% of its actual length.
A common myth is that Type 4 hair doesn't grow. It grows just as fast as any other type; it just breaks off at the ends because it’s dry. If you’re a Type 4, you should be using the LOC method: Liquid (or leave-in conditioner), Oil, then Cream. This layers the moisture and seals it in.
Porosity: The Secret Variable
Even if you identify your spot on the hair types men chart, you might still struggle. Why? Porosity. This is your hair’s ability to absorb and hold moisture.
Take a strand of clean hair and drop it in a glass of water.
- High Porosity: It sinks immediately. Your hair has gaps in the cuticle. It drinks up water but loses it just as fast.
- Medium Porosity: It floats in the middle. This is the goal.
- Low Porosity: It stays on top. Your cuticle is closed tight. Water literally beads off your hair.
If you have low porosity hair, you need heat to open the cuticle. Wash with warm water. If you have high porosity, you need "heavy" sealants like shea butter or oils to "plug" the holes in the cuticle and keep the moisture from evaporating.
Practical Steps to Master Your Mane
Identifying your type is just the start. Let’s get into the actual work.
Stop the Daily Wash
Unless you’re a Type 1 with an incredibly oily scalp, you shouldn't be shampooing every day. Most wavy and curly men should aim for 2–3 times a week. On the off days, just rinse with water and use a conditioner.
🔗 Read more: Is There a Dollar Tree on Marco Island? What to Know Before You Shop
The "No-Towel" Rule
Stop rubbing your head with a rough terry cloth towel. It creates friction. Friction equals frizz. Use an old cotton T-shirt or a microfiber towel to gently pat your hair dry. It sounds high-maintenance, but it takes thirty seconds and changes everything.
Product Selection Based on Texture
- Straight (Type 1): Sea salt sprays, light clays, volume powders. Avoid oils.
- Wavy (Type 2): Light mousses or styling creams. Avoid heavy waxes that pull the wave out.
- Curly (Type 3): Leave-in conditioners and gels with "hold" to define the curl.
- Coily (Type 4): Heavy butters, oils (Jojoba or Argan), and deep conditioners.
The Misconception of "Coarse" vs "Thick"
I hear guys say this all the time: "My hair is thick." Usually, they mean they have a lot of it (high density). But "thick" can also refer to the diameter of the individual strand (coarse). You can have high-density, fine hair. This means you have a million tiny, thin hairs. Or you can have low-density, coarse hair—fewer hairs, but each one is like a wire.
Check your scalp. If you can see your skin easily through the hair, you have low density. This means you need lightweight products regardless of your curl pattern. Don't drown your scalp in heavy grease if you have low density, or you'll look like you're thinning even if you aren't.
How to Move Forward
Don't go out and buy five new products today. Start by identifying your number and letter on the chart. Next time you're at the barber, ask them specifically: "What's my porosity?" A good barber knows this stuff. They can feel the texture and tell you if your hair is "thirsty" or "waterproof."
Once you know your type, swap out your shampoo for something sulfate-free. Give your hair two weeks to adjust. Your scalp will probably overproduce oil at first because it's used to being stripped daily. Let it level out.
The goal isn't to have "perfect" hair. The goal is to stop fighting against what grows out of your head. When you work with your pattern instead of against it, grooming becomes a five-minute task instead of a morning-long battle. Stop guessing and start treating your hair based on its actual DNA.
Identify your hair type by letting it air dry with zero product. Observe the pattern.
Check your porosity with the water glass test tonight.
Audit your bathroom cabinet and toss anything with harsh sulfates if you are Type 2 or higher.