Growing hair on your face seems easy until it isn't. You stop shaving, wait three weeks, and suddenly you look less like Tom Hardy and more like a lost hiker who’s been living on berries and rain. It’s a common trap. Most guys think a beard is just a beard, but the reality is that choosing between a different type of beards is actually an exercise in facial geometry. If you have a round face and grow a thick, bushy beard, you’ve basically turned your head into a basketball. That’s probably not the vibe you’re going for.
The Science of the Jawline
Honestly, a beard is just natural contouring for men. While women use makeup to define their cheekbones, we use follicles. According to styling experts at companies like Braun and Gillette, the "best" beard isn't necessarily the longest or the thickest; it’s the one that creates an oval silhouette.
If you have a square jaw, you want to keep the sides short and the chin slightly fuller. This softens the angles. Conversely, if your chin is a bit weak, a different type of beards like the "Ducktail" or a pointed goatee can literally manufacture a chin where nature forgot to put one. It’s basically magic, but with more itching in the first two weeks.
The Stubble Spectrum
Stubble is the ultimate "I’m busy but I care" look. It’s also the most popular according to a 2016 study published in Evolution and Human Behavior, where researchers found that women often rated heavy stubble as the most attractive look compared to clean-shaven or full-bearded faces.
But stubble isn't just "not shaving."
You have the "5 o'clock shadow," which is roughly 0.5mm. Then there’s "medium stubble" at 1mm to 3mm, and "heavy stubble" which hits that 4mm to 5mm sweet spot. To pull this off, you need a decent trimmer. If you let it grow past 5mm without tidying the neck, you aren't rocking stubble anymore; you’re just messy. You’ve gotta clear the hair off your Adam's Apple. No exceptions.
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Why the Corporate Beard is Harder Than It Looks
A lot of guys think the "Corporate Beard" is the safest entry point into the world of a different type of beards. It’s professional. It’s neat. It says, "I have a 401k and I also know how to use an axe," even if the only thing you’ve chopped lately is a salad.
A corporate beard is usually kept at a length of about 1/2 inch to 1 inch. The trick is the cheek line. If you let your cheek hair grow too high, it looks wild. If you scoop it too low, you look like a 90s R&B singer. You want a natural line from your sideburn to the corner of your mouth. Keep it crisp.
You’ll also need beard oil. By the time you hit this length, your skin starts getting dry because the hair is wicking away all the natural sebum. If you don't hydrate, you get "beardruff." That’s beard dandruff. It’s as gross as it sounds.
The Long Game: Power Beards and Verdis
Then we get into the heavy hitters. The "Power Beard" or the "Verdi." Named after the 19th-century Italian composer Giuseppe Verdi, this style is characterized by a short, rounded bottom and a prominent, often styled mustache.
It takes months.
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You’re looking at four to six months of growth to get the mass required for a Verdi. During this time, you will hit the "awkward phase." This is where the hair is too long to be neat but too short to be a "big" beard. Most men quit here. They look in the mirror, see a puffball, and shave it all off. Don't do that. Visit a barber. A professional can shape the "bulk" while leaving the length, which helps you survive the transition.
The Garibaldi and the "Mountain Man" Fallacy
If you’ve ever seen a guy with a massive, wide, rounded beard that looks like a hedge, that’s a Garibaldi. It’s meant to look natural, but it actually requires a lot of trimming to keep that U-shape at the bottom. It shouldn't exceed 20cm in length.
A lot of guys confuse this with the "Yearnd"—the year-long beard grown without any trimming. Unless you have incredible genetics, a Yearnd usually ends up looking like a frayed rope. Even if you want a massive beard, you have to trim the split ends. It sounds high-maintenance, but your face will thank you.
Moustaches and Goatees: The Risky Business
Let’s be real: the goatee has a bad reputation. It’s often associated with 90s rock bands or people who are about to tell you why crypto is the future. But a "Van Dyke"—a detached mustache and goatee—is a classic look that works exceptionally well for guys with patchy cheeks.
If your beard doesn't connect on the sides, don't force it. Grow the chin, grow the 'stache, and keep the cheeks clean.
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The "Chevron" mustache (think Tom Selleck) is also making a huge comeback. It’s bold. It’s heavy. It requires a certain level of confidence to pull off because it becomes the first thing people notice about you. If you have a large upper lip area, this is your best friend. If you have a tiny mouth, a Chevron might make you look like you’re hiding a secret.
Maintenance is Non-Negotiable
No matter which different type of beards you choose, the maintenance kit is the same:
- Beard Wash: Do not use head shampoo. It’s too harsh for the skin on your face and will strip away the oils, leaving your beard feeling like a Brillo pad.
- A Boar Bristle Brush: This isn't just for tangles. The bristles exfoliate the skin underneath and help distribute oils evenly down the hair shaft.
- Scissors: Trimmers are great for bulk, but for those rogue "flyaway" hairs that stick straight out, you need small grooming scissors.
Identifying Your Face Shape
Before you pick a style, look in the mirror.
- Round Face: Go long on the bottom, short on the sides. This elongates your head.
- Square Face: Keep it fuller on the chin, but rounded to soften the jaw.
- Oval Face: You won the genetic lottery. Almost any different type of beards will look good on you.
- Heart Face: Grow a fuller beard to add "weight" to a narrower chin.
Actionable Steps for Your Beard Journey
Stop looking at photos of models and start looking at your own growth patterns. If your hair is thin on the cheeks, don't try to grow a Garibaldi. It’ll just look transparent.
Start by letting everything grow for exactly four weeks. Do not touch it. No "shaping," no "just cleaning up the neck." Just let it go. This reveals your natural "map." You'll see where it's thick, where it's patchy, and where it grows in weird directions.
Once you have your map, choose a style that works with your density rather than fighting against it. If it’s patchy, go for stubble or a Van Dyke. If it’s thick, try the Corporate or Power beard. Invest in a high-quality oil—something with jojoba or argan oil—and apply it daily to the skin, not just the hair.
Finally, find a barber who specializes in beards. A standard haircut place might not know how to fade a beard into a hairstyle. A specialist will. Go once a month to get the "lines" set, and then you can just maintain those lines at home with your own trimmer. Your face is a canvas; don't treat it like a chore.