You’ve probably seen them. Those sleek, articulated plastic heroes standing guard on a collector's shelf or buried in the "as-is" bin at a local flea market. For over thirty years, the zelda link action figure has transitioned from a simple child's plaything into a high-stakes market for serious hobbyists. It's weird. Back in the late eighties, if you wanted a Link toy, you basically had a couple of static, ugly figurines from the Nintendo Cereal System era or those weirdly proportioned Trophy Figures. Now? You can spend three hundred dollars on a piece of articulated art that has individual joints for his toes.
Honestly, the market is a mess. If you search for a Link figure today, you’re bombarded with everything from five-dollar "bootlegs" on auction sites to high-end Japanese imports that cost more than a used Nintendo Switch. It's easy to buy the wrong thing. Most people just want a Link that looks like the one they played as in Ocarina of Time or Breath of the Wild, but they end up with a floppy-jointed mess or a scale that doesn't match the rest of their collection.
Why the Zelda Link Action Figure Market is So Fragmented
Nintendo is protective of its IP. Really protective. But for a long time, they didn't actually care much about high-end toys. This created a vacuum. In the early 2000s, we had the Joyride Studios figures—bulky, somewhat brittle, and honestly, a bit primitive by today's standards. Then things shifted. Companies like Max Factory (under the Figma brand) and Medicom (with their Real Action Heroes line) started treating Link like a museum piece.
The variety is actually the problem. Are you looking for a "toon" Link from Wind Waker or the gritty, hyper-realistic version from Twilight Princess? The aesthetic difference isn't just a paint job; it’s a completely different manufacturing philosophy. A Figma Link is built for posing. It has those smooth, orb-like joints. A World of Nintendo figure by Jakks Pacific is built to be dropped on a kitchen floor. One costs $15, the other costs $80. Knowing which one you're buying is the first step toward not regretting your purchase.
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The Figma Era: The Gold Standard for Most
If you ask any serious collector which zelda link action figure is the "best," they’re going to mention Figma. Produced by Max Factory, these are the ones you see in those crisp, professional photos on Instagram. They started with the Skyward Sword version—Figure No. 153. It was a revelation. It came with the Master Sword, the Hylian Shield, and even an effect part to simulate the "Skyward Strike."
But here is the catch.
Because they are popular, they are faked. Constantly. If you see a Figma Link for $25 on a major third-party marketplace, it is a bootleg. Period. The real ones have a specific matte finish; the fakes are shiny, like they’ve been rubbed in bacon grease. The joints on a real Figma are stiff but smooth. On a knockoff, the head will probably fall off the moment you try to tilt his hat.
Jakks Pacific and the "Toy" Factor
Not everyone wants a $100 collectible that they're afraid to touch. Jakks Pacific’s World of Nintendo line filled a huge gap. These are the 4-inch and 2.5-inch figures you find at big-box retailers. They’re accessible. They’re chunky. They’re fun.
What’s interesting is the scale. The 4-inch Link figures actually look decent next to other gaming toys. They’ve released versions from Ocarina of Time, The Wind Waker, and Breath of the Wild. The paint applications are hit-or-miss—sometimes Link looks like he’s had about four hours of sleep in three days—but for the price, it’s hard to complain. They represent the "entry level" of the zelda link action figure world.
The Most Sought-After Rarities
Collectors are a strange bunch. We value things that were produced in limited quantities or had weird distribution. Take the Medicom Real Action Heroes (RAH) Link. This thing is massive. It’s 1/6 scale, roughly 12 inches tall. It features actual fabric clothing. When you see it in person, it’s intimidating. It’s also expensive. We’re talking $400 to $600 on the secondary market depending on the condition of the "leather" straps, which tend to flake over time.
Then there are the Nendoroids. Produced by Good Smile Company, these are the "chibi" versions. Big heads, small bodies, incredibly cute. The Majoras Mask Link Nendoroid is a fan favorite because it comes with a bunch of masks from the game. It’s not an "action figure" in the traditional sense of realism, but the articulation is surprisingly good for something with a head the size of a grapefruit.
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Dealing with the "Twilight Princess" DX Version
One specific zelda link action figure deserves its own mention: the Figma Twilight Princess DX Edition. This is often cited as the peak of the hobby. Why? Because of the accessories. While the standard version just gives you the sword and shield, the DX version includes the Ordon Sword, the Hero's Bow, the Clawshot, the Hawkeye, and even a freaking Ball and Chain.
It turns the figure into a modular piece of history. You can recreate almost any scene from the game. But because it’s the "deluxe" version, it’s the primary target for scammers. Always check the box for the official Nintendo holographic sticker. No sticker, no buy.
Scale, Articulation, and the "Shelf Presence"
When you’re buying a zelda link action figure, you have to think about "shelf presence." This is a term collectors use to describe how a figure looks from across the room. A 2.5-inch Jakks figure has zero shelf presence. It’s a desk toy. A Medicom RAH has massive shelf presence.
- Articulation types: Look for "ball joints" in the shoulders and "double-jointed knees." If a Link figure can't get into a proper crouch or hold the Master Sword with two hands, is it even a Link figure?
- Material: PVC is standard. Some higher-end statues use polystone, but those aren't action figures. Be wary of figures that use too much soft "rubber" for the tunic, as it can tear or degrade in humid climates.
- Price to Value Ratio:
- $10-$20: Play-ready, durable, basic paint.
- $60-$100: Highly articulated, accessory-heavy, meant for display.
- $200+: High-end imports or vintage pieces like the 1993 BD&A figures.
Honestly, the "best" figure is subjective. I know people who prefer the old Toy Biz Ocarina of Time figures from 1998 because they have a certain nostalgic charm, even if Link’s face looks like a melted candle.
Identifying Authentic Figures in a Sea of Clones
The bootleg problem is real. It’s the biggest hurdle in the zelda link action figure community. Most of these fakes originate from factories using discarded molds or cheaper plastic.
Look at the eyes. On an authentic figure, the eyes are crisp, aligned, and follow the character's original design. On a fake, Link often looks cross-eyed. Check the peg holes. Figma uses a very specific hexagonal or circular peg for their stands. Fakes usually have messy, jagged holes that don't fit the stand properly.
Also, smell the plastic. Sounds weird, right? Authentic high-end figures don't really have a scent, or they have a very faint "new toy" smell. Bootlegs often smell like heavy industrial chemicals or gasoline. That’s the "off-gassing" of cheap materials. It's not just a quality issue; those materials aren't always non-toxic.
Why Breath of the Wild Changed Everything
When Breath of the Wild launched, the design of Link changed. No more green tunic by default. The Champion’s Tunic (blue) became the new icon. This led to a surge in new zelda link action figure designs. The Medicom RAH BotW Link is gorgeous, but the Figma version is more practical for most.
The Tears of the Kingdom figures are the current frontier. We’re starting to see figures with the "Rauru’s Arm" design, which adds a whole new level of complexity to the sculpt. The "Prosthetic" look of Link in the newer games allows for some really cool interchangeable arm pieces that previous figures couldn't offer.
Maintenance and Care for Your Collection
If you're going to drop $80 on a figure, don't let it rot. Dust is the enemy. It gets into the joints and acts like sandpaper. Use a soft makeup brush—a clean one, obviously—to dust your figures once a month.
Avoid direct sunlight. UV rays are the fastest way to turn Link’s green tunic into a sickly yellow-brown. If you’re displaying them in a glass case like an Ikea Milsbo or Detolf, consider adding some UV-filtering film to the glass if the room gets a lot of sun.
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And please, for the love of Hylia, don't use superglue on broken joints. If a joint snaps, look into "hobby pins" or specialized plastic cements like Tamiya Extra Thin. Superglue creates a brittle bond that will just snap again, usually taking more of the plastic with it.
Next Steps for the Aspiring Collector
If you're just starting, don't go for the rarest item first. You'll likely overpay.
First, pick your era. Do you love the classic 8-bit look, the N64 polygons, or the modern open-world aesthetic? Focus there.
Second, set a budget. The zelda link action figure market is notorious for "price creeping." You start looking at a $20 figure and somehow convince yourself that $150 isn't that much for a specialized import. It is.
Third, verify the source. Stick to reputable hobby shops like AmiAmi, HobbyLink Japan, or BigBadToyStore. If you’re using eBay, check the seller's location. If it's shipping from a region known for mass-producing knockoffs at a "too good to be true" price, trust your gut. It's a fake.
Finally, check the "Sold" listings. Don't look at what people are asking for a figure; look at what people are actually paying. That is the true market value. A "Buy It Now" price of $500 for a sealed Majora's Mask figure doesn't mean it's worth that if the last five sold for $250.
Collecting these things is a marathon, not a sprint. The "perfect" Link figure is the one that makes you smile when you see it on your desk after a long day. Whether it's a $5 flea market find or a $300 masterpiece, the history of Hyrule is literally in your hands.