It happens. You’re halfway through the living room, pushing your trusty Vax Air, and suddenly the pitch shifts from a steady roar to a dying whine. Then comes the smell. That acrid, metallic "electric" scent that usually means your motor for vacuum cleaner vax units has finally given up the ghost. Most people just bin the whole machine at this point, which is honestly a massive waste of plastic and money.
Changing a motor sounds like a job for a specialist, but it really isn't. If you can use a screwdriver and take a photo with your phone to remember where the wires go, you can fix this.
Why Vax Motors Usually Fail
Vax machines are generally workhorses, but they have a specific way of dying. It’s almost always thermal. Because Vax likes to pack a lot of suction into relatively small, lightweight housings, the motors run hot. If you aren't religious about cleaning those HEPA filters, the motor has to work twice as hard to pull air through a brick of dust.
Eventually, the carbon brushes inside the motor wear down to nothing. Or, the copper windings overheat and the lacquer melts, causing a short.
You’ll know it’s the motor and not just a fuse if the vacuum still has power—maybe the lights are on—but the suction is dead. Sometimes you’ll hear a "pop" followed by total silence. That’s the internal thermal cut-out or, more likely, a blown armature. It’s annoying, sure, but a replacement motor is a fraction of the cost of a new Blade or Mach Air.
Identifying the Exact Motor for Vacuum Cleaner Vax Machines
Don't just go on eBay and search for "Vax motor." You’ll end up with a part that doesn't fit the housing or has the wrong wattage. Vax has used dozens of different suppliers over the years, including Ametek, Domel, and various unbranded Chinese manufacturers.
You need the model number. It’s usually on a silver or white sticker on the back or bottom of the machine. Look for things like "U85-AS-Be" or "C85-P4-Be."
The Wattage Trap
There’s a common misconception that a higher wattage motor is "better." Since the EU (and subsequently the UK) introduced energy regulations, vacuum motors have actually dropped in wattage but improved in efficiency. If your old Vax had a 2000W motor and you try to shove a modern 700W motor in there, the mounting brackets might match, but the suction performance will feel "off" because the housing wasn't designed for that specific airflow velocity.
Stick to the specs. If your machine says 800W, buy an 800W motor.
Genuine vs. Compatible: The Great Debate
This is where things get tricky. A genuine motor for vacuum cleaner vax sourced directly from Vax or an authorized distributor like eSpares or BuySpares will usually cost about £40 to £60.
Then you have the "pattern" or compatible parts. These are often half the price.
Are they worth it? Sometimes.
If your vacuum is ten years old and already looks like it’s been through a war, a £20 compatible motor is a smart gamble. However, compatible motors often use slightly cheaper bearings. They might be a bit louder. They might run a few degrees hotter. If you’re sensitive to noise or you use your vacuum for an hour at a time, go for the genuine part. It’ll last longer.
The Step-by-Step Reality of Swapping It Out
First, unplug the thing. Seriously.
You’ll need a T15 or T20 Torx screwdriver for most Vax models. They love those star-shaped screws. Once you crack the casing open, you’ll see the motor sitting in a rubber "shroud" or bucket. This rubber is vital. It’s what dampens the vibration so the whole vacuum doesn't rattle your teeth out.
- Take a photo of the wiring. You’ll usually see a brown (live) and blue (neutral) wire.
- Check the seals. If the rubber gaskets are perished or torn, your new motor won't suck properly.
- Pull the old motor out. It might be dusty. It will probably be gross.
- Drop the new one in. Make sure it’s seated perfectly in the rubber housing. If it’s even slightly tilted, it will vibrate and eventually crack the plastic casing of the vacuum.
Sometimes the wires are soldered, but in 90% of Vax uprights and cylinders, they use spade connectors. You just pull them off with pliers and push them onto the new motor’s terminals.
When It's Not Actually the Motor
Before you spend money on a new motor for vacuum cleaner vax, check the cable. Vax cord rewinds are notorious for failing. If the internal copper in the power cord has snapped near the plug or where it enters the machine, the motor won't start.
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Try this: Plug it in, turn it "on," and gently wiggle the cable at different points. If it flickers to life for a second, it’s a cable issue, not a motor issue. That’s a £5 fix.
Also, check the brush bar. On many Vax models, if the floor brush gets jammed with hair, it can trip a reset switch or make a sound that mimics a failing motor. Clear the hair first.
Performance Expectations After Replacement
Don't expect your vacuum to suddenly have "superpowers." A new motor brings it back to factory specs; it doesn't upgrade it.
However, you will notice it runs cooler. Old motors with clogged internal cooling fans run incredibly hot, which is why they eventually smell like burning. A fresh motor should be relatively "sweet" sounding.
If you install the new motor and it sounds like a jet engine or high-pitched screaming, something is wrong. Usually, it’s an air leak around the motor bucket. Check those rubber seals again. Even a tiny gap will cause a whistling sound and a massive drop in cleaning power.
Environmental Impact of Repair
We throw away millions of vacuum cleaners every year. It’s ridiculous.
Replacing the motor is the single best way to keep a machine out of the landfill. Most of the energy cost of a vacuum is in the manufacturing of the plastic body and the shipping. By just swapping the "heart" of the machine, you're essentially resetting the clock on its lifespan for about 20% of the cost of a new unit.
Maintenance to Make the New Motor Last
Once you’ve done the hard work of replacing the motor for vacuum cleaner vax, don't kill it the same way you killed the last one.
- Wash the filters every month. Not every year. Every month.
- Let filters dry for 24 hours. If you put a damp filter back in, the motor will suck moisture into the bearings. That’s an instant death sentence for the new part.
- Check for blockages. If you hear the pitch of the motor go up (the "suction scream"), there’s a blockage in the hose. Stop immediately. Running a motor against a total blockage causes it to overheat in seconds.
Actionable Next Steps
If your Vax has died, don't go shopping for a new one yet. Follow this checklist to see if a motor replacement is viable for you:
- Find your model number. It’s on that sticker. Write it down.
- Search for the specific motor. Use the model number + "replacement motor" on a reputable parts site.
- Check the price. If the motor is under £40 and a new vacuum is £150, the repair is a "yes."
- Open the casing first. Before buying the part, make sure you can actually get the vacuum open. If the screws are rusted or the plastic is cracked, it might not be worth the effort.
- Inspect the carbon brushes. If you're feeling brave, you might find the motor is fine and just needs new brushes, which cost about £5. Look for the two small plastic caps on the side of the motor; if the "pencils" of carbon inside are shorter than 5mm, replace those first.
Repairing your own gear is satisfying. It’s cheaper, it’s greener, and it’s honestly not that hard once you get past the fear of "breaking it." It’s already broken, after all. You can’t make it worse.