You’re looking at a boat that looks like a floating shoebox with a ramp. It’s ugly. It’s loud. Honestly, if you’re used to the sleek lines of a center console or the plush seats of a pontoon, a landing craft feels like buying a tractor for the ocean. But here’s the thing—if you need to haul a literal ton of gravel, a side-by-side, or a crew of six guys in muddy boots to a remote island, that sleek fiberglass boat is useless.
The market for landing craft for sale is weirdly specific and surprisingly cutthroat right now.
Most people start their search thinking they just need "something with a bow ramp." That’s mistake number one. Buying a landing craft isn't like buying a car; it's more like hiring a specialized contractor. If you get the hull thickness wrong or the ramp width an inch too narrow for your ATV, you’ve basically bought a very expensive, very heavy lawn ornament that floats.
Why You Probably Don’t Want a Surplus Military Boat
There is a romanticized idea about buying old military LCMs (Landing Craft Mechanized) or LCVPs. You’ve seen them in the movies. You think, "If it worked for Normandy, it’ll work for my cabin in Alaska."
Stop.
Military surplus boats are often built for a single, violent purpose. They are heavy. They are frequently made of steel that has been rusting in salt water for forty years. Unless you have a full-time mechanic and a deep-seated love for sandblasting, steer clear. Modern commercial aluminum landing craft are the gold standard for a reason. Companies like Munson Boats out of Washington or Brix Marine have redefined what these things can do. They use marine-grade 5086 aluminum. It’s light. It’s tough. It doesn't rot.
If you find a used landing craft for sale that was built in the 90s out of thin-gauge aluminum, check the welds. Aluminum has a fatigue life. Every time that boat hits a wave, the metal flexes. Over thirty years, those welds can develop micro-fractures that are a nightmare to fix.
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The Ramp Is Everything (And It’s Usually Too Small)
I’ve seen it a dozen times. Someone finds a great deal on a 24-footer. They get it home, drop the ramp, and realize their Polaris Ranger is two inches wider than the opening.
Measure twice. Then measure again.
You also need to think about the winch system. A manual hand-crank ramp is fine until it’s 2:00 AM, raining, and you’re trying to clear a beach before the tide drops and strands you for twelve hours. Hydraulic ramps are the way to go for serious work, but they add weight and complexity. If you’re looking at a boat with a hydraulic gate, check the hoses for UV damage.
Shallow Draft vs. Sea Keeping
Here is the trade-off no one tells you about: flat bottoms vs. V-hulls.
A true flat-bottom landing craft can slide right onto a beach and stay stable. You can walk off the ramp onto dry sand. It’s great. But try taking that flat bottom across a choppy bay in a 20-knot wind. You will lose your teeth. It’ll slam. It’ll skitter. It’s miserable.
Modern "modified-V" hulls are the middle ground. They have a bit of a deadrise to cut through the chop, but they still have a relatively flat entry at the bow for beaching. When browsing landing craft for sale, look at the transom deadrise. Anything over 12 degrees is going to handle better in the rough stuff but might sit a little deeper in the water, making those shallow-water landings a bit trickier.
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Real-World Costs You Aren't Factoring In
- Fuel: These things are aerodynamic bricks. They don't glide.
- Insurance: Insuring a commercial-grade landing craft for private use can be a headache. Some providers see "landing craft" and think "commercial salvage," which spikes your premiums.
- Zincs: Because most are aluminum, you have to be obsessive about sacrificial anodes. If you skip this, the ocean will literally eat your boat.
The Hidden Market: Where to Actually Look
Don't just stay on the big-name boat listing sites. You have to go where the work happens.
Check out Workboat.com or specialized brokers like Pacific Boat Brokers. They deal in vessels that actually do jobs. You’ll find boats that aren't pretty—they have scratches, faded paint, and maybe some old fish scales in the corners—but they are built to a higher standard than the "consumer" versions sold at your local marina.
Also, keep an eye on municipal auctions. Small-town fire departments and port authorities often cycle out their response boats every 10 to 15 years. These are usually well-maintained, low-hour machines that just need a new coat of bottom paint and some updated electronics.
Outboards vs. Inboards
Ten years ago, everything was diesel inboard. Today? It’s all about high-horsepower outboards.
Twin 300s are common on a 30-foot landing craft now. Why? Because you can tilt them all the way out of the water. If you’re beaching your boat, you do not want a propeller and a shaft tucked underneath it where a rock can turn your afternoon into a $10,000 repair bill. Outboards give you maneuverability and the ability to "limp" home on one engine if things go sideways.
However, if you are hauling massive weight—think 5,000 lbs plus—the torque of a diesel inboard is still king. It’s a niche choice now, but for heavy logistics, it’s unbeatable.
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The "Island Life" Tax
If you are buying a landing craft to service an island property, you are entering a specific ecosystem. You aren't just buying a boat; you're buying a floating truck.
Think about your loading point. Do you have a dock? A concrete ramp? A rocky beach? A landing craft with a reinforced "push knee" bow is essential if you plan on nudging up against rugged terrain. Some builders even add a thick layer of UHMW plastic to the bottom of the hull. It’s the same stuff they use on airboats. It lets you slide over rocks and logs without gouging the aluminum. It’s expensive, but it pays for itself the first time you misjudge a tide.
What to Check Before You Wire the Money
Don't buy sight unseen. Ever.
Hire a surveyor who specifically knows aluminum commercial boats. A standard "fiberglass guy" won't know what to look for. You need someone who understands galvanic corrosion and can use an ultrasonic tester to check hull thickness. If the seller says the boat was used for "light transport," look at the deck. Dents and heavy gouges tell the real story. If it was used to haul heavy machinery without proper dunnage (wood or rubber mats), the structural ribs under the deck might be compromised.
Key Questions for the Seller:
- What is the clear width between the bitts? (This is your actual loading width).
- Is the deck self-bailing? (Essential for safety in heavy rain/seas).
- When were the fuel tanks last inspected? (Aluminum tanks can pit from the inside out if water sits in them).
- Is there a "load line" or stability report?
Actionable Steps for Your Search
If you're serious about finding a landing craft for sale that won't ruin your life, stop scrolling through Instagram photos of shiny boats and start doing the legwork.
- Define your "Max Load": Don't guess. Weigh your ATV, your generator, and your typical crew. Add 20% for safety. That is your minimum payload requirement.
- Locate your nearest aluminum welder: If you buy a metal boat, you need a guy. Find him now, not when you have a hole in the hull.
- Check the Beam: Ensure the boat isn't "over-width" for trailering in your state without a permit. Anything over 8'6" usually requires a wide-load permit, which is a massive pain for a weekend warrior.
- Search "Workboat Brokers": Move away from the consumer sites. Look for "landing craft" on sites like Commercial Nav or Apollo Duck. The deals are better, and the boats are tougher.
Landing craft are tools. Treat the purchase like you’re buying a crane or a bulldozer. If you focus on the utility and the structural integrity rather than the paint job, you'll end up with a vessel that actually does the job it was built for.