Ken had a big night. In 1961, Mattel decided Barbie's boyfriend needed to stop hanging around in just his red swim trunks and a yellow towel. He needed class. He needed to look like he belonged at a gala or perhaps a very high-stakes game of baccarat. So, they gave him a vintage Ken doll tuxedo. It wasn't just one suit, though. Over the years, that single "Tuxedo" outfit (officially known as #787) morphed into a saga of black felt, tiny zippers, and the kind of midnight-blue tailoring that collectors now hunt for like buried treasure.
It’s honestly kind of funny.
People think these are just scraps of fabric. They aren't. If you find an original 1961 Tuxedo set in a shoebox today, you aren’t just looking at a toy; you're looking at a specific moment in American textile history. Most of these early pieces were hand-sewn in Japan. The stitching is microscopic. The fabric is often a heavy, high-quality rayon or even wool-blend felt that puts modern "fast fashion" doll clothes to absolute shame.
What Most People Get Wrong About the #787 Tuxedo
You’ve probably seen a million black suits on eBay labeled as "vintage." Most of them are fakes or from the 1980s. The real-deal vintage Ken doll tuxedo from the early sixties has very specific "tells" that separate the investment pieces from the play-worn junk.
First off, let’s talk about the shirt. The original shirt isn't just white fabric. It’s a "wing-collar" tuxedo shirt with tiny, tiny little pleats down the front. These are often yellowed now—thanks, oxygen—but they should be crisp. If the shirt has a standard flat collar, you're likely looking at a later 1970s version or a generic clone.
Then there's the boutonniere.
A lot of collectors lose sleep over that tiny red flower. In the very first runs, the boutonniere was a small silk or fabric rosebud. Later, Mattel switched to a plastic one. If you find a fabric rosebud still attached to the lapel, you’ve basically found the Holy Grail of Ken formalwear. It’s fragile. It falls off if you breathe on it too hard. Finding one intact is like finding a four-leaf clover in a hurricane.
And the shoes? They’re "dress flats." No laces. No heels. Just smooth black plastic with "Japan" stamped on the bottom. If they don’t say Japan, they might be from the 1970s Hong Kong production era, which is fine, but it’s not the original original.
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The Mystery of the Midnight Blue Variation
Here is something weird. Most people assume every vintage Ken doll tuxedo is jet black.
Wrong.
Mattel released a "Midnight Blue" version of the tuxedo (#0787) that is arguably more stylish than the black one. It’s subtle. You have to hold it under a bright LED light to see the blue tint. This was a direct nod to the high-end fashion of the era—think Sean Connery as James Bond in Dr. No. The blue version often came with a slightly different texture to the lapels, sometimes using a shiny satin that contrasts against the matte body of the jacket.
Finding this version in "mint" condition is incredibly hard because the blue dye used in the early sixties was prone to fading or "bronzing." If the suit looks a bit brownish or purple, that’s actually a sign of age on the blue fabric, not necessarily dirt.
Beyond the 1961 Classic: The Mod Era Shift
By the late 1960s, Ken’s style went through a mid-life crisis. The "Tuxedo" became "tuxedos" (plural).
We moved away from the stiff, formal 1950s aesthetic into things like the "Midnight Dash" or "Victory Party" outfits. These weren't your traditional black-tie affairs. We're talking brocade. We're talking ruffles. If you see a vintage Ken doll tuxedo with a velvet jacket and wide lapels, you’ve moved into the "Mod" era (1967–1972).
The "Here Comes the Groom" set from 1966 is another heavy hitter. It’s technically a formal morning suit, not a tuxedo, but it’s often lumped in. It features a grey cutaway coat and striped trousers. It’s much harder to find the striped pants without holes in the crotch area because the fabric was thinner than the felt used in the 1961 set.
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How to Spot a "Franken-Ken" Suit
Honestly, the biggest challenge for collectors is the "Franken-Ken." This is when a seller takes a 1990s Barbie tuxedo jacket, pairs it with 1970s pants, and tries to pass it off as a vintage Ken doll tuxedo.
Here is how you protect yourself:
- Check the Label: Almost all genuine 1960s Ken clothes have a black and white "Ken™" tag sewn into the neckline or the waistband. If there is no tag, or if the tag says "Genuine Barbie" (which happened later), the value drops significantly.
- The Cummerbund Test: The original 1961 set came with a pleated burgundy satin cummerbund. It’s a separate piece. Often, it gets lost. If a seller is offering the "complete" tuxedo but the cummerbund is missing, it’s not complete. Period.
- Feel the Fabric: Modern doll clothes feel like polyester or thin plastic. Vintage Ken clothes feel like actual human clothing. They have weight. They have "tooth."
- The Socks: Did you know the tuxedo came with tiny black knit socks? Most kids threw them away in 1962. If you find a set with the original socks, you are looking at a premium listing.
Why Collectors Care So Much About These Tiny Suits
It seems silly to get worked up over a 12-inch man’s suit. But these outfits represent the transition of the American toy industry from "miniature people" to "fashion icons."
Ruth Handler, the creator of Barbie, wanted these dolls to be sophisticated. The vintage Ken doll tuxedo was the peak of that sophistication. It wasn't a joke. It wasn't a "goofy" outfit. It was designed to make Ken look like a man of status.
There's also the "nostalgia tax." Men who grew up in the sixties and were told dolls were for girls often kept their Ken dolls hidden. Now, those men are in their 70s and they're buying back the pieces of their childhood they weren't allowed to celebrate openly. That drives the price up. A mint-in-box (MIB) #787 Tuxedo can easily fetch several hundred dollars at a specialty auction like Theriault's or even on a heated eBay Tuesday.
Common Damage to Look For
Before you drop money on a vintage Ken doll tuxedo, you have to be a bit of a forensic scientist.
Moths love the felt jackets. Look for "grazing"—that’s where a moth didn't eat all the way through but chewed off the top layer of fuzz. It looks like a bald spot. Also, check the armpits. Because Ken's arms were made of a different type of plastic (PVC) than the torso, sometimes the plastic would "off-gas" over fifty years. This creates a sticky residue that can actually melt the fabric of the tuxedo if it’s been stored in a hot attic.
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If the jacket feels "tacky" or sticky to the touch, walk away. That’s chemical degradation, and you can’t wash it out.
Cleaning and Preservation
Don't use a washing machine. Ever.
If your vintage Ken doll tuxedo is dusty, use a very soft makeup brush to flick the dust off. If it smells like a basement, put it in a sealed container with a piece of charcoal (not touching the fabric!) for a week.
If you absolutely must "wash" a stain, use a Q-tip with a tiny bit of distilled water and a drop of Woolite. Dab, don't rub. Rubbing felt is the fastest way to ruin the texture and turn it into a matted mess.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Collector
If you're looking to start a collection or just want to find one high-quality piece for your shelf, here is how you should actually move forward:
- Identify the Era: Decide if you want the "Stiff" Ken (1961-1963) or the "Bendable Leg" Ken (1965+). The tuxedo for the bendable leg Ken is slightly roomier in the seat to accommodate the jointed hips.
- Hunt for the Boutique Tags: Look for the "Ken™" black-and-white woven labels. These are the gold standard.
- Check the "Accessories": A true complete #787 set must have: the black jacket, the black trousers, the white pleated shirt, the burgundy cummerbund, the burgundy bowtie (often attached to the shirt), black knit socks, and black shoes.
- Avoid the "Lot" Trap: Don't buy a giant bag of clothes hoping a tuxedo is in there. Sellers usually know what they have. Buy individual pieces that are clearly photographed.
- Store It Right: Once you get it, keep it out of direct sunlight. The black fabric will turn a weird "rusty" brown if exposed to UV rays for too long.
The vintage Ken doll tuxedo is more than just a toy. It’s a tiny masterpiece of mid-century design. Whether you’re a serious collector or just someone who found a box in the attic, treating these garments with a bit of respect goes a long way. They don't make them like this anymore—literally, the labor costs to hand-stitch a doll shirt with that many pleats today would make the retail price astronomical.
Hold onto that felt. Check the lapels. And for heaven's sake, don't lose the tiny red boutonniere. Once it's gone, it’s gone forever into the vacuum cleaner of history.