You’re standing in the toy aisle. It's loud, the floor is sticky, and you’re staring at a box of tiny, opaque plastic bags. You want the Grave Digger. Or maybe that specific Earth Shaker with the translucent wheels. But these are "blind bags" for a reason—Spin Master doesn't exactly make it easy to see what’s inside without tearing the packaging to shreds. Don't do that. It’s messy, and honestly, you’ll probably get kicked out of the store. Instead, you just need to look at the back of the bag.
There is a sequence of numbers and letters stamped near the seal. That’s your roadmap. Monster jam mini series 18 codes aren't some Area 51 secret, but they are the difference between finishing your collection in a weekend or ended up with six identical El Toro Locos sitting on your dashboard.
The Reality of Hunting Series 18
Series 18 is a weird one. Spin Master has been tweakng how they print these codes over the last couple of years. Sometimes they’re embossed (pressed into the plastic), and sometimes they’re printed in a faint grey ink that requires the flashlight on your phone and a fair bit of squinting to actually read.
Collecting these things is a bit of a rush. It’s tactile. These minis are roughly 1:87 scale, which makes them tiny enough to lose in a couch cushion but detailed enough to actually look like the behemoths you see at the stadium. If you’re a parent, you know the heartbreak of a kid opening a duplicate. If you’re a collector, you know the annoyance of spending five bucks on a truck you already have three of.
The codes usually follow a specific format. You’re looking for a string of characters where the last two or three digits are the "key." For Series 18, the sequence usually looks something like "20121A01" or a variation depending on the factory run. The "01" at the end is what tells you which truck is hiding inside.
Breaking Down the Monster Jam Mini Series 18 Codes
Let’s get into the actual list. Keep in mind that depending on your region (US vs. UK/Europe), these can occasionally shift, but the sequential order almost always stays the same. The numbering starts at 01 and goes through the full roster of the series.
01 - Grave Digger It’s the icon. You can’t have a series without Digger. In Series 18, he’s usually the first code. If you see that 01 at the end of the batch code, you’ve found the green and black wrecking machine.
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02 - El Toro Loco The orange bull. Look for the 02. This one usually has the classic orange paint job, though Spin Master loves to throw in "Core" versions vs "Special Edition" versions in different series.
03 - Max-D Maximum Destruction. Code 03. This truck is a fan favorite for a reason. The mini version captures those silver spikes surprisingly well for something the size of a grape.
04 - Megalodon The shark. Code 04. This is arguably the most popular truck with kids right now. If the box at Target is half-empty, it’s usually because someone already swiped all the 04s.
05 - Dragon Code 05. The green scales and those tiny wings. It’s a great sculpt. If you’re looking at the bag and see that 05, you’re getting the mythical beast.
06 - Earth Shaker The dump truck. Code 06. I’ve always liked this one because the bed actually looks like it could hold something, even at this scale.
07 - Zombie Code 07. Watch out for the arms! One of the coolest things about the Zombie minis is how they try to replicate the "arms out" look of the full-scale truck.
08 - Wild Side Code 08. A bit more of a niche pick compared to the big names, but the glittery or metallic finishes Spin Master has been using lately really pop on this one.
09 - Bakugan Dragonoid Code 09. This is a crossover that actually works. It’s bright, it’s aggressive, and it’s usually the one people miss when they’re just looking for the "classic" trucks.
10 - Pirate's Curse Code 10. The hat. The skull. It’s a classic. Finding a 10 means you’re adding the captain to your fleet.
11 - Blue Thunder Code 11. Simple, clean, and fast-looking. It’s a nice break from some of the more "busy" designs in the series.
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12 - Son-uva Digger Code 12. The heir to the throne. This often completes the "must-have" list for most casual fans.
Why Codes Sometimes Seem Wrong
Ever bought a bag, checked the code, and got something else? It’s infuriating. There’s a reason for it, though. Spin Master sometimes runs multiple production lines.
Sometimes the code isn't just the last two digits. You might see a code like A22. In that case, the "22" isn't the truck number; it’s the week of the year it was produced. You have to look for the separate stamped number, usually further away from the "official" manufacturing info. It’s often very faint.
Another thing: Retailers sometimes mix boxes. If you find a Series 18 bag inside a Series 17 box, the codes might look similar but the trucks will be different. Always check the "Series" number on the front of the bag first. It sounds obvious, but in the chaos of a toy aisle, it’s an easy mistake.
The "Squish Test" vs. The Code
Some people swear by the "squish test." They feel the bag to find the shape of the truck. Honestly? That’s a nightmare with minis. They’re all roughly the same rectangular blob of plastic. You might be able to feel Megalodon’s fin or Dragon’s wings, but good luck telling Grave Digger apart from Blue Thunder just by touch. Use the codes. It’s faster, you don't look like a crazy person, and it’s 99% accurate.
The Mystery of the Chase Pieces
Every series usually has a "chase" or a rare variant. In Series 18, these are the ones that drive collectors nuts. They might have a translucent chassis, "dirty" deco (mud splatter), or gold-painted rims.
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Commonly, the chase trucks don't have a different number—they just replace the standard version of that truck in the production line. So, if you’re looking for a "Gold" Megalodon, you’re still looking for the Megalodon code, but you’re hoping you grabbed the 1-in-24 bag. It’s a gamble. That’s the "blind" part of the blind bag that actually stays true to its name.
Where to Find the Numbers
If you’re holding the bag vertically, look at the back. There is a "crimp" at the top and bottom where the plastic is heat-sealed. The code is almost always right below that top seal or right above the bottom one.
- Light is your friend. Use the overhead lights of the store or your phone's LED.
- Tilt the bag. The numbers are often embossed without ink. You need the shadow from the light to see the indentations.
- Check the "A" or "B". Sometimes there’s a letter after the code. Usually, this just refers to the factory shift or the specific mold used. Focus on the digits.
What to Do With Duplicates
Look, it happens. You misread a 08 for an 03. Or your kid opens a bag you already had.
Don't throw them out. The Monster Jam community is surprisingly active. There are huge groups on Facebook and Reddit where people do straight trades. Since these things are light, you can pop them in a padded envelope and ship them for a couple of bucks. It’s way better than having a graveyard of duplicate Max-Ds in the toy box.
You can also use duplicates for "customs." A little bit of acrylic paint or a Sharpie can turn a standard truck into a "mud-covered" version or a custom design. Since they’re cheap, they’re the perfect canvas for kids to get creative without ruining a $20 1:24 scale model.
Actionable Tips for Your Next Hunt
Next time you’re heading out to finish your Series 18 set, keep these specific steps in mind:
- Take a screenshot of the code list. Don't rely on your memory. 06 and 09 look very similar when they're stamped into crinkly plastic.
- Check the box code. On the bottom of the cardboard display box, there’s usually a master code. If the box ends in a different letter than what you’ve seen online, the bag codes might be shifted.
- Be respectful of the store. If you pull all the bags out to check codes, put them back neatly. Store employees are more likely to let you "hunt" if you aren't making a mess of the shelf.
- Bring a magnifying glass. If your eyesight isn't 20/20, those tiny embossed numbers are a nightmare. Most people just use their phone camera and zoom in. It works like a charm.
Collecting monster jam mini series 18 codes is really just a game of patience. The trucks are out there. The codes are there too, hiding in plain sight. Once you get the hang of spotting that tiny stamped number, you’ll never buy a mystery bag "blind" ever again. You’re not guessing; you’re just shopping with a cheat sheet.
Identify the trucks you’re missing, head to the store with your list, and use your phone's flashlight to catch the light on the back of the packaging. If the number matches your list, you've got your truck. If it doesn't, move on to the next bag in the box. This method is the only way to ensure you aren't wasting money on triples of the same truck while that one elusive Pirate's Curse stays on the shelf.