You know that feeling when you're standing in a fluorescent-lit dressing room, surrounded by piles of spandex, wondering why every bikini makes you look like a box or—even worse—threatens a total wardrobe malfunction? It’s exhausting. If you have an hourglass figure, you’ve probably heard people say you have the "ideal" body type for fashion. Honestly, that feels like a bit of a lie when you're actually trying to find a swimsuit that fits your chest and your hips simultaneously without gaping at the waist.
The struggle is real.
Most swimwear brands design for a "straight" fit, meaning they assume your bust and hips aren't significantly wider than your middle. But an hourglass is all about the curve. You have shoulders and hips that are roughly the same width, and a waist that’s clearly defined—usually about 8 to 10 inches smaller than your bust or hip measurement. Finding swimwear for hourglass figure types isn't about hiding your body; it’s about finding structural integrity that keeps up with your silhouette.
The Support Problem Nobody Mentions
Most "cute" swimsuits are held together by literal strings. If you’re an hourglass, strings are often your enemy. Why? Because an hourglass shape often comes with a fuller bust, and a tiny triangle top offers about as much support as a paperclip. You need architecture.
Think about underwire. It’s not just for bras. Brands like Freya and Birdsong have actually leaned into this, creating swim tops based on actual bra sizing (32D, 34G, etc.) rather than the useless Small-Medium-Large scale. If you buy a "Large" top to fit your chest, the band is usually too loose to provide any lift. You end up with your straps digging into your neck, which is a one-way ticket to a tension headache by lunchtime.
Look for wide straps. They distribute weight. It's physics, really. A thin string applies all that downward pressure on a tiny surface area of your shoulder. A two-inch strap? Much better.
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Why High-Waisted Bottoms Are Actually a Mixed Bag
There is a huge misconception that high-waisted bottoms are the holy grail of swimwear for hourglass figure women. Sometimes they are. Sometimes they're a disaster.
If the waistband hits you at the narrowest part of your torso, it’s magic. It highlights the curve. But if the fabric is too thick or doesn't have enough Lycra, it can actually "flatten" the curve of your hip, making you look more rectangular than you actually are. Look for "high-leg" cuts paired with a high waist. This creates a vertical line that elongates the leg while still celebrating that hip-to-waist ratio.
Avoid "boy shorts." They seem like they’d be comfortable, but on an hourglass, they often cut straight across the widest part of the thigh. This creates a horizontal line that can make you feel "stumpy." Not exactly the vibe most people are going for at the pool.
The One-Piece Renaissance
For a long time, one-pieces were boring. They were for lap swimming or hiding. But now? They’re basically shapewear you can swim in. For an hourglass, the "monokini" or any suit with side cut-outs can be incredible because it literally draws the eye inward toward your waist.
However, be careful with the torso length.
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Many women with hourglass shapes have a longer or shorter torso than the "standard" fit. If the suit is too short, it’ll pull down at the chest. If it’s too long, you’ll get weird fabric bunching at the small of your back. Brands like Summersalt have gained a massive following specifically because they’ve used data from 10,000 body scans to figure out where these compression zones should actually sit. Their "Sidestroke" model is a classic example—the diagonal lines play into the natural symmetry of an hourglass.
Color, Pattern, and Visual Weight
Dark colors recede; bright colors pop. We all know this. But for an hourglass, you don't necessarily want to "recede" anything. You want balance.
If you’re slightly more "top-heavy" (the "inverted triangle" leaning hourglass), try a solid, darker top with a patterned bottom. This draws the eye down and balances your frame. If you’re a "pear" leaning hourglass, do the opposite. A ruffled or bright top with a simple, dark bottom works wonders.
Belted swimsuits are having a massive moment right now. Solid & Striped and various high-end designers have been adding literal belts to one-pieces. It feels a bit 1950s Bond Girl, but functionally, it’s brilliant. It emphasizes the waist without needing extra seams.
Real Talk: The Fabric Quality Matters
Cheap suits lose their "memory." Memory is the fabric's ability to snap back to its original shape after being stretched. Since an hourglass body stretches fabric significantly at the bust and hips, cheap polyester suits will start to sag at the waist after just a few wears.
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Look for a high percentage of Xtra Life Lycra. It resists chlorine and heat better than standard spandex. It keeps the "snatch" in the waistline much longer.
A Quick Checklist for Your Next Purchase
- Check the side seams: Are they straight, or do they curve? Curved seams are a sign of better tailoring for your shape.
- The "Jump Test": In the dressing room (or your bedroom), jump. If things shift significantly, that suit won't survive a single wave at the beach.
- Adjustability: Look for tie-backs or adjustable sliders. Your ribcage is likely much smaller than your bust, so you need to be able to tighten that band.
- Avoid "straight across" necklines: Unless you want to look flatter, a sweetheart or V-neckline usually follows the natural lines of an hourglass much better.
Don't Forget the Wrap
Sarongs are the hourglass's best friend. Tying a wrap at the narrowest part of your waist rather than on your hips emphasizes your shape perfectly while giving you some coverage if you’re heading to the snack bar.
Actionable Steps for Your Swimwear Search
Stop looking at the size tag. It’s a lie anyway. A size 10 in one brand is a size 6 in another. Instead, grab a soft measuring tape. Measure your "high waist" (the smallest part) and your "fullest hip."
When you shop for swimwear for hourglass figure styles, prioritize the fit of the largest part of your body first. It is much easier to have a suit slightly taken in at the waist by a tailor (yes, you can tailor swimwear!) than it is to deal with a suit that is too small in the chest.
Go for bra-sized tops if you are anything above a C-cup. It changes the entire experience from "holding your breath" to actually enjoying the water. Look for brands like Panache, Fantasie, or even some of the newer inclusive lines from Target (their "Shade & Shore" line has surprisingly good underwire options).
Finally, ignore the "rules" that say you have to cover up. If you love a string bikini, wear it. Just make sure the strings are long enough to wrap around and provide the security you need. The best swimsuit is ultimately the one that doesn't make you think about your body once you're in it.