You finally cleared out the garage. You bought the wraps. You've been hitting that bag for three months, and suddenly, there is this annoying metallic clink. You look down, and a bolt is missing. Or maybe you're staring at a second-hand frame you bought off Facebook Marketplace that looks like a giant, confusing puzzle. This is exactly when you realize that an everlast heavy bag stand parts list isn't just a boring document—it is the difference between a productive workout and a trip to the emergency room because a hundred pounds of sand fell on your foot.
Most people think these stands are indestructible. They aren't. Everlast builds solid entry-level gear, but vibration is the enemy of all hardware. Every time you throw a hook, that energy travels through the bag, up the chain, and into the steel tubing. Over time, things loosen. Things go missing. Honestly, it's kinda expected.
What is actually in the box?
If you are looking at the standard Everlast Single Station or the Dual Station (the one with the speedbag attachment), the parts list is surprisingly straightforward. You have the legs, which are the long, angled tubes that keep the whole thing from tipping over. Then there is the center upright column. This is the spine of the unit. On top of that sits the overhead arm, which is usually curved or angled to keep the bag away from the main pole so you don't keep kicking steel.
The hardware is where it gets tricky. You’re usually looking at M8 or M10 bolts. Most Everlast stands use a specific combination of carriage bolts, washers, and nyloc nuts. Those nylon-insert nuts are crucial because they are designed to resist backing off during the constant vibration of a workout. If you lose one and replace it with a standard nut from a junk drawer, it will vibrate off in three days. Don't do that.
You also have the weight pegs. These are the little stubs at the end of the feet where you’re supposed to stack Olympic plates to keep the stand stable. If you don't have these, or if they’ve snapped off (it happens if you’re a heavy hitter), the stand is basically a pendulum.
The parts you will probably lose first
It is almost always the U-bolt or the S-hook. The S-hook is that curved piece of metal that connects your bag’s D-rings to the swivel or the eyelet on the stand. Because it's a point of constant friction, it wears down. I've seen S-hooks that have been ground nearly halfway through after years of heavy use. If yours looks thin, replace it before it snaps mid-round.
Then there are the plastic end caps. These don't seem like "performance" parts, but they keep the metal edges from slicing your ankles open if you step too close. If you're missing these from your everlast heavy bag stand parts list, you can usually find generic 2-inch or 3-inch square plastic inserts online. They aren't proprietary, thankfully.
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The Speedbag Platform Components
If you have the multi-station version, you've got a whole other set of headaches. You have the wooden drum (the circular platform), the swivel, and the adjustment knobs. Those knobs are notorious for stripping. People over-tighten them because the platform vibrates too much, and eventually, the threads just give up. If you're at that point, you're usually looking at a trip to the hardware store for some heavy-duty wing bolts.
Identifying your specific model
Everlast has changed their designs over the last decade. You might have the "Powercore" version, the "Standard Single Station," or the "Heavy-Duty" variant. Look at the base. Is it a tripod shape? Or does it have a flat, rectangular footprint? The everlast heavy bag stand parts list for a tripod-style stand is very different from the newer models that use a "V" shape base.
If you can't find a model number stamped on the metal (and you probably won't), look at the color of the powder coating. The classic grey hammertone finish usually indicates an older model, while the matte black is more common on current retail versions found at places like Dick's Sporting Goods or Walmart.
Sourcing the hardware when Everlast is out of stock
Let’s be real: calling manufacturer support for a five-year-old stand is a nightmare. They might not even stock the parts anymore. But here is a secret—most of this stuff is universal.
If you take your remaining bolts to a local hardware store, you can match the thread pitch and length easily. Look for Grade 5 or Grade 8 steel. Do not buy the cheap zinc bolts that feel light; they’ll shear off. You want something that can handle "shear force," which is the technical term for the bag trying to pull the bolt sideways out of the hole.
For the swivel, if yours is squeaking or sticking, don't bother trying to find the "official" replacement part. Most Everlast stands use a standard three-bolt or four-bolt pattern for the swivel. You can upgrade to a high-speed ball-bearing swivel for twenty bucks and it will actually perform better than the one that came in the box.
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Assembly common mistakes
People often put the washers on the wrong side. The washer should be against the bolt head or the nut—whichever side is being turned. This spreads the pressure and prevents the bolt from crushing the hollow steel tubing.
Also, the "sandbag vs. weight plate" debate is huge for these stands. The parts list usually doesn't include the weights, but the manual says you need them. If you use sandbags, make sure they aren't leaking. The grit gets into the joints of the stand and acts like sandpaper, grinding down the finish and leading to rust.
Maintenance to keep the parts list short
Check your bolts once a month. Seriously. Set a reminder on your phone. If you catch a loose nut early, you won't lose it. If you let it go, the hole in the steel will eventually "oval out." Once the hole is no longer a perfect circle, the stand will never be stable again, no matter how much you tighten the hardware.
If you are dealing with a lot of noise, you can actually buy thin rubber washers to place between the metal joints. This acts as a dampener. It’s not on the official everlast heavy bag stand parts list, but it’s a pro move for garage gym owners who don’t want to wake up the whole house during a 6 AM workout.
What to do if the frame is cracked
If the actual steel tubing is cracked, the parts list doesn't matter. It’s trash. Do not try to tape it. Do not try to "brace" it with a piece of wood. The structural integrity of a heavy bag stand is based on the tension of the welds. Once a weld goes, the rest of the frame is under uneven stress and it's a disaster waiting to happen.
However, if it's just the eyebolt (the part the bag hangs from) that is bent, that is an easy fix. Most hardware stores sell heavy-duty closed eyebolts. Just make sure it’s rated for at least 200 pounds to account for the "live load"—the extra force generated when the bag is swinging.
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Actionable Next Steps
First, go to your stand and physically touch every bolt. If one turns with your fingers, it's already a problem. Second, if you are missing a specific piece of the frame, take a photo and use a visual search tool; many generic stands use the exact same manufacturing specs as Everlast, and you might find a "clone" part that fits perfectly. Finally, if you're replacing hardware, always buy two of everything. If one bolt fell out, its twin on the other side is probably thinking about doing the same thing.
Keeping your gear tight isn't just about the workout. It’s about not having to buy the same $150 stand twice because you ignored a fifty-cent nut. Get a 17mm wrench, a 14mm wrench, and some blue Threadlocker. Apply the Threadlocker to the bolts, tighten them down, and you won't have to look at a parts list again for a long time.
Check the stability of your floor as well. If the stand is on uneven concrete, the frame will flex every time you hit the bag. This flexing is what causes the bolts to snap or the powder coating to flake off. A simple piece of 3/4-inch horse stall mat under the stand can absorb a massive amount of that vibration and extend the life of every component on your list.
If you’ve inherited a stand and it’s a total mystery, focus on the base first. Measure the diameter of the tubing. Most Everlast stands use 1.5-inch or 2-inch square or round tubing. Knowing this measurement is the "skeleton key" for finding replacement clamps or attachments. Once you have the frame stabilized, the rest—the bag, the chains, the swivel—is just customization.
Don't overthink the "official" branding. A heavy bag stand is essentially a series of steel pipes held together by friction and gravity. As long as you maintain the primary connections and keep the weight pegs loaded, the brand name on the sticker matters a lot less than the quality of the bolts you use to hold it all together.
Now, go grab a wrench and see what’s loose. It’s better to find out now than in the middle of a heavy combination.