You've seen them. Those sharp, boxy lines cutting through a sea of bubbly, aerodynamic modern SUVs. They have a presence that just doesn’t exist anymore. Between 1973 and 1987 (extending to 1991 for Suburbans and Blazers), Chevrolet produced what we now affectionately call the "Square Body." Finding a square body chevy for sale used to be a weekend chore involving a local newspaper and a stack of $100 bills. Now? It’s a high-stakes digital arms race.
Prices are weird right now. Ten years ago, you could snag a running C10 for three grand. Today, that same truck might be listed for twenty thousand because someone "restomodded" it with a cheap lowering kit and some shiny wheels. It’s frustrating. But if you know where the rust hides and how to spot a "flipper" special, you can still find a deal.
The Reality of the Market
The term "Square Body" actually covers the third generation of the C/K series. Most enthusiasts obsess over the 1973-1987 pickups, but don't forget the V-series and R-series that carried the torch until the early 90s. If you’re hunting for a square body chevy for sale, you're likely looking for that classic 1973-1980 "round eye" look or the later 80s dual-stack headlight setup.
People are paying stupid money for these trucks on Bring a Trailer and Cars & Bids. We’re talking $50,000 for low-mileage survivors. Is it worth it? Maybe for a collector. For a guy who wants to actually drive his truck to Home Depot or the local car meet, the "sweet spot" is still the $12,000 to $18,000 range. That gets you a truck that isn’t a total basket case but won't make you cry if a pebble hits the windshield.
Rust: The Silent Killer of Dreams
Check the cab corners. No, seriously. Reach back there and feel the metal. If it feels like Swiss cheese or crunchy peanut butter, walk away. Or at least, prepare to spend a few grand on metal work.
Square bodies love to rot. They rot in the rockers. They rot in the floorboards. They even rot in the inner fenders where moisture gets trapped between the metal layers. Most trucks you’ll find in the rust belt (looking at you, Ohio and Michigan) have been patched with Bondo and a prayer. If you’re looking at a square body chevy for sale in the Southwest, you’re usually safe from the "iron moth," but you’ll deal with cracked dashes and brittle wiring from the desert heat. Pick your poison.
I’ve seen guys buy trucks from "down south" only to realize the entire floor was replaced with road signs and fiberglass. Always bring a magnet. If it doesn't stick to the bottom of the doors, you're looking at plastic, not steel.
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Which Model Should You Actually Buy?
Everyone wants a short-bed C10. It’s the darling of the custom world. It looks great lowered. It handles decent. But because everyone wants one, the prices are inflated.
If you want more truck for your money, look for a Long Bed (C20 or C30). You can always "shorten" a frame later if you’re handy with a welder, or just embrace the long-wheelbase life. The ride quality on a long-bed K20 is surprisingly stable compared to the "choppy" feel of a short-bed 4x4.
The Engine Situation
You’ll mostly find the 350 V8 (5.7L). It’s the bread and butter of the Chevy world. Parts are cheap. You can buy a water pump at a gas station in the middle of Nebraska.
- The 454 (7.4L): A beast. Thirsty as a camel after a marathon, but the torque is addictive. If you plan on towing, this is the one.
- The 305 (5.0L): A bit of a dog. It’s fine for cruising, but it lacks the soul of the 350.
- The 6.2L Diesel: Don’t expect to win any races. Or even pass a minivan on a hill. But they are reliable if you maintain the fuel system.
Fuel injection arrived in 1987 (TBI). If you hate tuning carburetors on cold mornings, look for an '87. It’s basically the "holy grail" year because you get the classic square body look with the reliability of electronic fuel injection.
Why the 1973-1980 Era is Different
Collectors go nuts for the early ones. Why? The "yellow" stitching in the gauges, the round headlight bezels, and the lack of corporate cost-cutting that crept in during the 80s. But there's a catch. These early trucks used a "drip rail" design that often leads to roof rot if the truck sat under trees.
I once looked at a 1976 K10 that looked mint from ten feet away. Once I climbed in, I realized I could see the sky through the top of the A-pillar. The seller tried to tell me it was "patina." It wasn't. It was a structural nightmare. Be careful with those early years.
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The Interior Trap
Chevy interiors from this era were... let's say "utilitarian." The bench seats are basically a spring-loaded couch. If the truck you’re looking at has a pristine interior, someone has spent some serious cash at LMC Truck or Brothers Trucks.
A common issue is the "sagging" door. The hinges wear out because the doors are heavy as lead. If you have to lift the door to get it to latch, don't panic. It's a $20 fix with new pins and bushings. Use that as a bargaining chip when looking at a square body chevy for sale.
What to Check Before Handing Over the Cash
Don't just kick the tires. Get dirty.
- The Steering Box: These frames are known to crack near the steering box, especially on 4x4 models with big tires. Look for stress fractures in the metal.
- The VIN Plate: Make sure the VIN on the door matches the VIN on the frame and the title. People "body swap" these things all the time. You don't want to buy a 1985 truck that’s registered as a 1975 just to avoid emissions. That’s a legal headache you don't need.
- The Transmission: The TH350 and TH400 are bulletproof, but the 700R4 (overdrive) in the 80s models can be finicky if the TV cable wasn't adjusted right. If it shifts "soft," it might be on its last legs.
The "Bro-Price" Phenomenon
You’ll see it on Facebook Marketplace. A guy listing a beat-up 1984 K10 for $15,000 with the caption "I know what I have."
Ignore him.
The market is cooling down slightly from the 2021 peak. There are still deals to be found in rural areas. Look for trucks listed as "C10" or "Chevy Truck" rather than "SQUAREBODY SEMA BUILD." The more hashtags in the ad, the more you're going to overpay.
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Searching for a square body chevy for sale requires patience. Check Craigslist. Check the classifieds in small-town papers. Sometimes the best trucks are sitting in a barn behind a tractor, not on a shiny showroom floor in Scottsdale.
The Maintenance Mindset
Buying one of these isn't like buying a used Camry. Things will break. Often. You’ll become best friends with the guys at the local parts store. You’ll learn how to set timing by ear. You’ll eventually have a permanent smudge of grease under your fingernails.
But when you’re cruising down a backroad at 50 mph, the vent windows open, and that V8 is humming—there’s nothing like it. It’s mechanical. It’s honest. It’s a piece of American history that you can actually use.
Actionable Steps for Your Search
If you're serious about getting behind the wheel, stop browsing and start acting.
- Set up alerts: Go to Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist. Save a search for "1973 to 1987 Chevy" and "Squarebody." Set the notifications to "Instant." The good ones sell in hours, not days.
- Budget for the "Hidden" Five Thousand: No matter how clean the truck looks, you’ll likely spend around $5,000 in the first year on tires, seals, brakes, and cooling system refreshes. If you have $15,000 total, buy a $10,000 truck.
- Join the Forums: Sites like 67-72chevytrucks.com (which covers squares too) are gold mines. The "For Sale" sections there are often filled with trucks owned by enthusiasts who actually maintained them, rather than flippers looking for a quick buck.
- Inspect the Wiring: Previous owners loved to hack up the wiring for radios and trailer lights. If you see a bunch of "vampire clips" and electrical tape under the dash, prepare for a weekend of soldering.
Finding the right square body chevy for sale is a marathon, not a sprint. Don't fall in love with the first one you see. Unless it’s a factory big-block short bed with no rust—then you better buy it before I do.
Keep your eyes on the frame rails and your wallet ready. The right square is out there; you just have to find it before the "I know what I have" crowd gets to it first.
Practical Resource List
- LMC Truck: For every nut, bolt, and trim piece.
- Hagerty Valuation: To check if the seller's price is grounded in reality.
- Local FB Groups: Search for "Squarebody Syndicate" or regional Chevy truck clubs.