You’re still rocking the PlayStation 4. Honestly, that's smart. Even though the PS5 has been out for years, the PS4 library is massive, and most of us aren't ready to drop five hundred bucks on a new console when the old one plays Elden Ring just fine. But there is one thing that probably feels dated: your audio. If you’re still using those mono earbuds that came in the box—the ones with the single blue wire—you are doing it wrong. A good gaming headset for ps4 isn't just about hearing footsteps in Warzone. It’s about not having your ears ache after two hours of God of War.
Most people think they need to spend a fortune. They don't. The PS4 uses a standard 3.5mm jack on the DualShock 4 controller, which means almost anything works, but "working" and "sounding good" are two different universes. I’ve seen people buy $300 "pro" headsets only to find out the PS4’s Bluetooth protocol doesn't even support them without a proprietary dongle. It's a mess.
Why Your Current Setup Probably Sucks
The PS4 is picky. It’s an older machine now. While the PS5 has that fancy Tempest 3D Audio engine, the PS4 relies on more traditional virtual surround sound or basic stereo. If you plug a high-impedance pair of studio headphones directly into the controller, they’ll sound quiet and tinny. The controller just doesn't have the juice to drive them.
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That’s why you need something specifically tuned for the console's output. You've probably noticed that some headsets claim "7.1 Surround Sound" on the box. Be careful with that. On a PS4, that feature usually only works if the headset comes with a USB mixamp or a specific wireless base station. If you just plug it into the 3.5mm jack? You’re getting stereo. It might be good stereo, but it's not surround.
The HyperX Cloud II: The Undisputed King of Comfort
If you ask any long-term PS4 player what a good gaming headset for ps4 looks like, they’ll probably point to the HyperX Cloud II. It’s old. It’s been out for nearly a decade. Yet, it still sells like crazy. Why? Because it’s built like a tank and feels like a pillow.
The aluminum frame doesn't creak when you move your head. That matters. Cheap plastic headsets start squeaking after a month, and that sound travels right into the earcups. The Cloud II uses memory foam that actually works. Most "memory foam" in budget headsets is just cheap sponge, but these stay comfortable even if you’re wearing glasses. I've pulled 6-hour sessions in Bloodborne wearing these, and my ears didn't feel like they'd been in a vice.
The sound profile is "V-shaped." That's a fancy way of saying the bass is punchy and the highs are crisp. For gaming, this is perfect. It makes explosions feel heavy and helps you pick out the "clink" of a reloading weapon. It isn't "audiophile" accurate, but for $80-$100, it’s hard to beat the value.
The Wireless Problem on PlayStation 4
Wireless is tricky. You can't just pair any Bluetooth headphones to a PS4. Sony blocked most third-party Bluetooth audio to reduce latency. You need a headset that uses a 2.4GHz USB dongle.
The SteelSeries Arctis 7P+ is basically the gold standard here. It was designed for the PS5, but it is fully backwards compatible with the PS4. The "P" stands for PlayStation. It’s white and blue to match the aesthetic, but the tech inside is what matters. It uses a lossless 2.4GHz connection. No lag. No syncing issues.
Battery life is a huge factor. The 7P+ gets around 30 hours. Think about that. You can play for four hours a night and only charge it once a week. Compare that to the official Sony Gold Wireless Headset, which usually dies after about 7 or 8 hours. The Sony ones are fine, but the hinges break if you look at them wrong. The Arctis uses a "ski goggle" headband that suspends the weight off your skull. It feels weightless.
What About the Budget Options?
Not everyone wants to spend a hundred bucks. I get it. If you’re looking for a good gaming headset for ps4 that costs less than a new game, look at the Razer BlackShark V2 X.
It’s wired. It’s bright green (usually). It looks a bit like something a helicopter pilot would wear. But the drivers—the actual speakers inside—are 50mm Triforce drivers. They separate the tuning of the highs, mids, and lows. In plain English: the bass doesn't muddy up the sound of someone talking. It’s surprisingly lightweight at 240g. You forget you're wearing it. The only downside is the cable isn't detachable. If your cat chews through it, the headset is toast.
The Secret to Mic Quality
Let's talk about your friends. They don't want to hear your ceiling fan. They don't want to hear you chewing chips. Most PS4 headsets have "okay" mics, but the noise cancellation is usually software-based and kinda trash.
If you care about your teammates, look for a "broadcast quality" mic. The Sennheiser (now EPOS) GSP 300 has a microphone that wipes the floor with most gaming brands. It’s a flip-to-mute mic. You push it up, it clicks, you're muted. Simple. Sennheiser knows audio, and even their entry-level gaming gear uses components derived from their studio line. The GSP 300 is often on sale because it’s a bit bulky and "gamer-y" looking, but the voice clarity is unmatched in the sub-$60 range.
Understanding Impedance and Volume
Ever wonder why your headset sounds louder on your laptop than on your PS4? It’s all about ohms.
The DualShock 4 controller has a relatively weak internal amp. If you buy a "high-end" pair of Beyerdynamic DT 990s (the 250-ohm version), the PS4 controller will barely be able to make them whisper. If you’re going the wired route, look for a headset with an impedance of 32 ohms or lower. This ensures the controller can actually drive the speakers to a satisfying volume without needing an external DAC/AMP.
A Quick Reality Check on "7.1 Virtual Surround"
Marketing teams love the phrase "7.1 Surround Sound." On a PS4, this is almost always a lie—or at least a half-truth. The PS4 only outputs 5.1 or 7.1 audio through the Optical Port or HDMI. If you are plugging a headset into the controller jack, you are getting a 2.0 Stereo signal.
To get "real" virtual surround sound on a PS4, you need:
- A wireless headset with its own processing unit (like the Astro A50).
- A wired headset that connects via USB to the console itself (like the Logitech G635).
- An optical cable connection (mostly found on older PS4 "Fat" or "Pro" models; the "Slim" doesn't have an optical port).
Don't buy a headset specifically for "surround sound" if you plan on just plugging it into your controller. You’re paying for a feature you won't use. Focus on "imaging"—how well the headset places sounds in a 2D space. A great stereo headset like the Corsair HS60 Pro does "imaging" better than many fake 7.1 headsets.
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Durability: Where Headsets Go to Die
I've seen so many people buy a good gaming headset for ps4 only to have the faux-leather earcups start peeling like a sunburned tourist after six months. That black flakey stuff gets everywhere. It’s gross.
If you can, find a headset with replaceable pads. Brands like SteelSeries and HyperX make it easy to swap them out. Better yet, look for fabric or "sports-mesh" ear pads. They breathe better, so your ears don't get sweaty, and they don't peel. The Turtle Beach Stealth 600 Gen 2 uses a fabric material that is specifically shaped to be "glasses friendly." It has a little indent in the foam so your frames don't dig into your temples. It’s a small detail, but if you wear glasses, it’s a lifesaver.
Actionable Steps for Choosing Your Next Headset
Don't just look at the star rating on Amazon. Those are often skewed by people who just opened the box and haven't actually used the thing for a month.
- Check your PS4 model. If you have a PS4 Slim, you don't have an optical port. Don't buy an expensive Astro A40/A50 or Turtle Beach Elite Pro that requires an optical connection unless you want to buy a separate HDMI extractor.
- Prioritize the "Mute" function. Look for a physical button or a flip-up mic. Navigating the PS4 Quick Menu to mute yourself during a phone call is a nightmare.
- Weight matters more than you think. Anything over 350 grams is going to feel heavy after an hour. Try to stay in the 250g to 300g range.
- Ignore the "RGB" lighting. You can't see the lights on your own ears. All they do is drain the battery faster on wireless models. It's a useless feature.
- Test the "Sidetone." This is a feature where you can hear your own voice inside the headset. Since most gaming headsets are "closed back" (they block out room noise), you’ll end up shouting because you can't hear yourself. Sidetone prevents this. The SteelSeries and Sony official headsets are great for this; HyperX is hit-or-miss.
The "best" headset is the one you forget you're wearing. For most people, the HyperX Cloud II remains the safest bet for a wired setup, while the SteelSeries Arctis 7P+ is the king of wireless for the PlayStation ecosystem. If you're on a tight budget, the Razer BlackShark V2 X provides the best audio-per-dollar ratio currently available.
Stop settling for the TV speakers. The PS4 has some of the best sound design in gaming history—The Last of Us Part II or Ghost of Tsushima sound completely different when you can actually hear the wind through the grass or the click of a clicker's throat right behind you. It changes the game. Literally.