You’re probably looking for a cheap tv 32 inch because you need something for the guest room, the kitchen, or maybe a dorm where space is basically non-existent. Let’s be real. You aren’t expecting a cinematic masterpiece that rivals a thousand-dollar OLED. You just want something that turns on, stays connected to the Wi-Fi, and doesn’t make your favorite Netflix show look like it was filmed through a potato.
Finding that balance is harder than it looks. The market is absolutely flooded with brands you’ve never heard of, and half of them are selling tech from five years ago disguised in a shiny new plastic shell.
The 720p vs. 1080p Trap
Most people assume all small TVs are the same. They aren't. If you go too cheap, you’re going to end up with 720p resolution. In 2026, that’s honestly pushing it. While a 32-inch screen is small enough that the pixel density isn't a total disaster at 720p, the difference when you jump to 1080p (Full HD) is noticeable, especially if you’re sitting close to the screen.
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Think about how you’ll use it. If it’s just background noise in a garage, 720p is fine. Save the twenty bucks. But if you’re actually watching movies or, heaven forbid, trying to read text from a gaming console, you need 1080p. Brands like VIZIO and TCL still churn out 1080p models in this size, like the TCL S3 Class, which usually hovers around that sweet spot of affordability and actual usability.
Why "Smart" Features Can Be a Dumb Choice
Here is a secret: the processors inside a cheap tv 32 inch are usually garbage. They are slow. They lag. You click "Netflix" and wait three seconds for the cursor to move. It’s infuriating.
I’ve seen plenty of people buy a $130 smart TV only to find that the apps stop being updated after eighteen months. Then they have to go out and buy a Roku stick or a Chromecast anyway. If you find a "dumb" TV—one without built-in smarts—for significantly less money, grab it. Plug in a $30 external streaming device. The experience will be ten times faster because the Roku stick has a better processor than the TV itself.
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The Roku TV Exception
If you must have built-in smarts, go with Roku TV. Platforms like Hisense and TCL use it because it’s lightweight. It doesn't need a supercomputer to run. Fire TV (Amazon’s version) is okay, but it tends to get bogged down with ads and "suggested content" that slows the whole interface to a crawl over time.
Sound Quality: The Elephant in the Room
Physics is a jerk. You cannot get deep, rich sound out of a TV that is two inches thick and weighs less than a gallon of milk. These speakers are tiny. They point downward or backward, reflecting off your wall and sounding like a tin can.
If you’re buying a cheap tv 32 inch, budget an extra $50 for a basic soundbar. Even a cheap one. Honestly, even a pair of decent computer speakers plugged into the headphone jack will sound better than the built-in audio. I’ve tested models from Insignia (Best Buy’s brand) where the dialogue was so muddy I had to turn on subtitles just to understand a sitcom. Don't do that to yourself.
Gaming on a Budget
Can you game on a 32-inch budget TV? Sure. Is it great? Not really.
Most of these panels have a 60Hz refresh rate. That's fine for a Nintendo Switch or casual PS5 gaming. But you aren't getting VRR (Variable Refresh Rate) or ALLM (Auto Low Latency Mode) at this price point. Input lag is the real killer. Some budget TVs have a "Game Mode" that strips away the image processing to reduce lag. Use it. It makes a world of difference in how "heavy" the controls feel.
The Real Cost of "No-Name" Brands
Walk into a big-box store and you'll see brands like Sceptre or Element. They are incredibly tempting. Sometimes they’re $80.
Here is the trade-off:
- The Panels: They often use "B-grade" panels from the big manufacturers. This means more backlight bleed and maybe a dead pixel or two.
- The Warranty: Good luck getting a human on the phone if the power supply dies in six months.
- Brightness: These TVs are notoriously dim. If you have a window nearby, the glare will make the screen unwatchable during the day.
Stick to the "middle" brands. TCL, Hisense, and VIZIO have better quality control and actual customer support. They might cost $30 more, but they’ll last three years longer.
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Viewing Angles and Panel Types
Most cheap TVs use VA panels. They have great contrast (blacks look blacker), but if you sit off to the side, the colors wash out instantly. If this TV is going in a kitchen where you're moving around, look for an IPS panel. IPS has better viewing angles, meaning you can actually see what's happening on the screen while you're standing at the stove.
Connections: Check Your Ports
Don't get stuck with a TV that only has one HDMI port. You'll regret it. You need at least two—one for your streaming stick and one for a game console or a Blu-ray player. Also, check for an Optical Audio out or HDMI ARC if you plan on using that soundbar I mentioned earlier.
Actionable Next Steps
If you're ready to buy, don't just click the first "sponsored" result on Amazon. Do this instead:
- Measure your space. A 32-inch TV is actually about 28 inches wide. Make sure your stand or wall mount fits that specific width.
- Prioritize 1080p. Search specifically for "1080p 32 inch TV" to filter out the grainier 720p models.
- Check the VESA pattern. If you're mounting it, most 32-inch TVs use a 100x100mm pattern, but double-check the listing so you don't buy the wrong bracket.
- Look for "Open Box" deals. Since these are often secondary TVs, people return them all the time because they "looked too small" once they got home. You can often snag a $180 TV for $110 just because the box was opened.
- Test the UI immediately. Once you get it, spend ten minutes clicking through the menus. If it feels sluggish now, return it. It will only get worse as the software updates.