You’re looking for a Case 1840 for sale, and honestly, I get it. There is something about that specific era of Case engineering that just feels right. It’s a workhorse. No DEF fluid. No complex computer screens telling you that a sensor in the exhaust pipe is sad today. Just a 4-cylinder Cummins and some hydraulics.
But here is the thing.
The Case 1840 hasn't been in production since 2001. That means even the "newest" one you find on MarketPlace or at an auction house has been through over two decades of dirt, vibration, and probably some questionable maintenance decisions by previous owners. Buying one today isn't just about finding the lowest price; it’s about making sure you aren't buying a $10,000 paperweight that needs $8,000 in drive motor repairs the week you get it home.
Why the Case 1840 Still Commands a Premium
If you’ve looked at the market lately, you’ve probably noticed that the prices for a clean 1840 are surprisingly high. Sometimes they sell for nearly what they cost brand new in the 90s. Why?
It’s the engine.
The Case 1840 is powered by the 3.9L Case/Cummins 4-390 (the naturally aspirated version of the legendary 4BT). This engine is basically bulletproof. It’s the kind of power plant that will run for 10,000 hours if you give it even a modicum of respect. Contractors and farmers love them because you can fix them with a standard set of wrenches and a shop manual. You don't need a laptop to diagnose a fuel issue.
Also, the size is perfect. It’s narrow enough to fit into a backyard but has a rated operating capacity (ROC) of 1,350 to 1,400 pounds. It punches way above its weight class.
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The Reality Check: What to Inspect on a Used Unit
When you finally pull up to a farm to look at a Case 1840 for sale, don’t let the fresh coat of paint fool you. In the heavy equipment world, "parade paint" is often used to hide cracks or leaks. You need to be a bit of a detective.
Start with the pins and bushings.
Lift the bucket halfway and try to wiggle it. If there’s a lot of "slop" in the joints, you’re looking at a line-boring job or at least a full pin replacement. That’s not a dealbreaker, but it’s a bargaining chip.
Then, check the drive motors.
Drive the machine in a straight line on flat ground. Does it pull to one side? It might just be an adjustment in the linkage, or it could be a dying hydraulic pump. If one side feels significantly weaker when you’re pushing into a pile of dirt, walk away or prepare for a massive repair bill. The hydraulic systems on these are robust, but they aren't immortal.
The Infamous Case "Chain Case" Leak
One specific quirk of the 1840 is the chain case. On many machines, owners forget to change the oil in the side tanks that house the drive chains. Open the inspection covers. If the oil looks like chocolate milk, water has gotten in. If it’s bone dry? Even worse.
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Look at the Hour Meter (But Don't Trust It)
I’ve seen dozens of Case 1840s for sale with "2,500 original hours."
Maybe.
But these hour meters are notorious for breaking. A machine that looks like it’s been through a war zone doesn't have 2,000 hours. Look at the foot pedals. Are the metal grips worn smooth? Look at the seat. Is it the original Case seat, and is it shredded? Look at the tires. Uneven wear tells a story about the axles that the seller might not mention.
Where to Find a Case 1840 for Sale Right Now
You aren't going to find these at your local big-box dealer very often. They move too fast.
- EquipmentTrader and IronPlanet: These are the gold standards. You’ll see a wide range of prices here, usually reflecting the machine’s actual condition.
- Local Farm Auctions: This is where the deals are, but it’s high risk. You get ten minutes to look at it, and then the gavel drops.
- Facebook Marketplace: Great for finding "grandfather's machine," but beware of scams. If the price is too good to be true—like a 1840 for $4,000—it’s a scam. Every time.
Comparing the 1840 to the 1845C
People often cross-shop the 1840 with its bigger brother, the 1845C. The 1845C is a legend in its own right, but it's much wider and heavier. If you’re doing residential landscaping or working in tight barns, the 1840 is the smarter play. It’s easier to trailer, too. You don't need a CDL-sized rig to move an 1840 around town; a decent 7,000lb or 10,000lb GVWR trailer will do the trick comfortably.
Maintenance Costs You Should Anticipate
Buying the machine is just the entry fee. If you pick up a used Case 1840, you should immediately budget for a "baseline" service.
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- Fluid Swap: Change the engine oil, hydraulic fluid, and chain case oil. Use a high-quality 10W-30 or 15W-40 for the engine depending on your climate.
- Filters: Don't skimp. Get the actual Fleetguard or Case filters.
- Hydraulic Hoses: Look for cracking or "weeping." A blown hose in the middle of a job is a nightmare. Replacing a few questionable ones now saves you a $200 service call later.
Final Verdict on the 1840 Investment
Is it worth buying a 30-year-old skid steer?
Yeah. It is.
If you find a well-maintained Case 1840 for sale, it will likely hold its value better than a brand-new machine. You can use it for three years, put 500 hours on it, and probably sell it for exactly what you paid. It’s one of the few pieces of equipment that has hit its "floor" in terms of depreciation.
Just remember: it’s an old-school machine. It’s loud. It’s bouncy. It doesn’t have air conditioning or a Bluetooth radio. But when you need to lift a pallet of pavers or grade a driveway, it will start every single time you turn the key. That’s the Cummins legacy.
Actionable Next Steps
Before you go hand over a stack of cash for a Case 1840, follow this checklist:
- Request a cold start: Tell the seller you want to see the engine start when it hasn't been warmed up. If it starts right up with minimal smoke, the compression is likely good.
- Check the ROPS: Ensure the Roll-Over Protective Structure isn't rusted through or bent. Your safety isn't worth a cheap machine.
- Test the auxiliary hydraulics: Even if you don't have an attachment today, make sure the aux couplers work. You’ll want a grapple or an auger eventually.
- Verify the serial number: Check it against online databases to ensure the machine isn't stolen and to confirm the actual year of manufacture.
- Bring a pressure gauge: if you really want to be pro, check the hydraulic pressure at the couplers to ensure the pump is hitting its rated PSI.
If the machine passes those tests, you've likely found a winner. Get it home, grease every fitting, and get to work.