You see that Coke-bottle profile and your heart just sort of stops. It’s the 1968 Dodge Charger. For many of us, it’s the definitive muscle car, the one that made the Bullitt chase legendary and turned the B-body platform into an icon of American engineering. But finding a 68 charger for sale today isn't like it was twenty years ago. You can’t just flip through the local classifieds and find a "driver" for five grand.
Nowadays, the market is a minefield. You've got "clones," "tribute cars," and enough hidden rust to sink a battleship. If you’re serious about putting one in your garage, you need to know exactly what you’re looking at before you wire a single cent to a seller.
Why the 1968 Model is the One Everyone Wants
Ask any Mopar enthusiast and they’ll tell you: 1968 was the sweet spot. It was the first year of the second-generation design. Dodge ditched the fastback look of '66 and '67 for something way more aggressive. They added those iconic round taillights and the hidden headlight grille that makes the car look like it’s snarling at you.
It’s mean. It’s sleek.
Richard Sias and the design team at Dodge really caught lightning in a bottle here. While the '69 has the split grille and the '70 has that heavy chrome wrap-around bumper, the '68 is the purest expression of the design. That’s exactly why the prices are through the roof. Honestly, if you find a 68 charger for sale that looks too cheap, there is almost certainly a structural reason for it. These cars are notorious for "Mopar rot" in the rear window channels and the trunk pans.
The Reality of the Current Market
Let’s talk numbers, because they’re kind of scary. A decade ago, a decent 383-powered 1968 Charger might have set you back $25,000. Today? You’re lucky to find a rolling shell for that.
If you’re looking for a numbers-matching R/T with a 440 Magnum or, heaven forbid, a 426 Hemi, you’re looking at six figures. Easily. According to recent data from Hagerty and BaT (Bring a Trailer) auctions, even "average" condition cars are regularly crossing the $60,000 mark.
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But here is the thing: a lot of people are selling 318-powered base models that have been dressed up to look like R/Ts. There’s nothing inherently wrong with a "tribute" car, as long as the seller is being honest about it. But paying R/T prices for a car that started life as a vinyl-top cruiser with a small block is a mistake you don't want to make.
How to Spot a Fake R/T
You have to check the VIN. It’s the only way to be sure. On a '68 Charger, the VIN is located on a plate attached to the top of the dash, visible through the windshield on the driver's side.
- The second digit of the VIN tells the story.
- If it’s an "S," you’re looking at a genuine Special Edition (R/T).
- If it’s an "L" or "H," it was a base or high-trim car, not an R/T.
Don't just take the "R/T" badges at face value. People buy those in catalogs every day. Check the fender tag too. It’s that little metal plate under the hood on the driver’s side inner fender. It contains codes for the engine, transmission, and even the original paint color. If that tag is missing or looks brand new on a "survivor" car, start asking very pointed questions.
Rust: The Silent Killer of the B-Body
You can fix a blown engine. You can reupholster a shredded seat. But fixing a rotted unibody on a 1968 Charger is a nightmare that will drain your bank account and your soul.
These cars didn’t have great rust-proofing from the factory. Water tends to get trapped in the lower rear quarters, the rocker panels, and specifically the trunk floor. If you're inspecting a 68 charger for sale, bring a magnet and a flashlight. Poke around the rear window deck. If it feels crunchy or the magnet doesn't stick, that’s body filler (Bondo) hiding a hole.
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Check the frame rails. Since the Charger is a unibody car, the "frame" is integrated into the floor. If the rails are soft where they meet the leaf spring hangers, the car is technically unsafe to drive. Replacing those rails requires a jig and a very skilled welder. It's not a weekend DIY job for most people.
Mechanicals and the "Numbers Matching" Obsession
In the Mopar world, "numbers matching" is the holy grail. It means the engine and transmission currently in the car are the ones it left the factory with. For collectors, this is everything. For someone who just wants to do burnouts and go to Cars & Coffee, it might not matter as much.
If you find a 68 charger for sale with a "period correct" engine, it means the engine is from 1968 but isn't original to that specific car. This usually knocks about 20% to 30% off the value compared to a true numbers-matching example.
The 440 Six Pack wasn't actually available in '68 (that came in '69), so if someone tells you they have a factory '68 Six Pack, they’re either mistaken or lying. You had the 318, the 383 (2-barrel and 4-barrel), the 440 Magnum, and the 426 Hemi. The 383 is actually a fantastic engine—plenty of torque, easier to maintain than a Hemi, and significantly cheaper to buy.
Transmissions and Rear Ends
Most Chargers you’ll find have the 727 Torqueflite automatic. It’s arguably one of the best automatic transmissions ever built. If it shifts crisp, it’s probably fine. However, the A833 four-speed manual cars are much rarer and command a massive premium.
Check the rear end too. The 8.75-inch rear is standard for most performance builds, but the heavy-duty Dana 60 was reserved for the high-output manual cars. If someone claims they have a factory Hemi car but it has a tiny 7.25-inch rear end, something is very wrong.
Where to Actually Look for a 68 Charger for Sale
Don't just stick to eBay. The best deals often happen in the shadows of the big auction sites.
- Moparts.com and ForBBodiesOnly.com: These are enthusiast forums. The people here know their stuff. You’ll find better-quality cars and sellers who actually care about the history of the vehicle.
- Facebook Groups: Look for "Mopar Only" classified groups. You have to move fast here. A well-priced 68 charger for sale will be gone in hours.
- Local Car Shows: Sometimes the "old school" way works best. Talk to the guy with the '69 or '70. Ask if he knows anyone selling a '68. The Mopar community is tight-knit, and many of the best cars never hit the open market.
- Specialty Dealers: Places like RK Motors or Volo Auto Museum usually have high-quality inventory, but you will pay a premium for the convenience and the "vetting" they do.
The "Bullitt" Factor and the Black Charger Myth
We have to talk about the movie Bullitt. Every time someone wants a 1968 Charger, they usually want it in black. They want to be the hitman chasing Steve McQueen.
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Because of this, there are a disproportionate number of black 1968 Chargers on the market. Most of them weren't black originally. If you find a 68 charger for sale and the fender tag says the paint code is "QQ1" (Bright Blue) or "LL1" (Medium Turquoise), but the car is black, it’s a color change.
A high-quality color change is fine. A "resale red" or "hitman black" paint job slapped over original green paint without jamming the doors or trunk is a red flag for a "flip" car. Flippers buy rough cars, hide the sins with shiny paint, and try to double their money. Don't be the victim.
Maintenance is a Different Beast
Owning a 50-year-old muscle car isn't like owning a modern Challenger. There is no OBD-II port to tell you what's wrong. You need to be comfortable with a timing light, a vacuum gauge, and the smell of unburnt hydrocarbons.
Parts availability for the '68 is actually great. Companies like AMD (Auto Metal Direct) make almost every body panel you could need. Year One and Classic Industries have the interior bits covered. But labor is the killer. Finding a mechanic who actually knows how to tune a Carter AVS or Holley carb is getting harder every year.
Actionable Steps Before You Buy
If you’ve found a 68 charger for sale that looks promising, follow this checklist. Don't skip steps just because you're excited.
- Request a Video of a Cold Start: You want to see the car start from a completely cold engine. Watch the exhaust. Blue smoke is oil (rings or valve guides). White smoke is coolant (head gasket).
- Check the "Cowl" Area: Open the hood and look at the vents below the windshield. If those are clogged with leaves or rusted out, water has been leaking onto the floorboards for years.
- Verify the Title: Make sure the VIN on the title matches the VIN on the dash and the door sticker (if it's still there). Discrepancies here can lead to a legal nightmare.
- Hire a Third-Party Inspector: If the car is across the country, spend the $300 to $500 to hire a classic car inspector. They will find things you’ll miss in photos.
The 1968 Dodge Charger is more than just a car; it's a piece of kinetic art. It represents the peak of the American muscle era before the oil crisis and emissions regulations neutered everything. Buying one is a dream for many, and it can be a great investment if you buy right. Just keep your eyes open and your emotions in check.
Check the frame rails. Verify the VIN. Watch out for Bondo. If you do that, you'll end up with a legendary machine that turns heads every time you turn the key.