You're standing in Cancun. It’s hot. The sun is bouncing off the pavement, and you can smell the salt in the air, but you can’t quite see the turquoise water yet. You want to get to Isla Mujeres. It’s that skinny strip of land on the horizon where the golf carts outnumber the cars and the margaritas actually taste like lime instead of syrup. To get there, you need a boat. Specifically, you need the ferry to Isla Mujeres, but if you just walk up to the first person in a uniform who shouts at you, you’re probably going to pay double or end up at the wrong pier.
Getting across the Bahia de Mujeres isn't rocket science, but it’s surprisingly easy to mess up. There are two main companies, four different departure points in the Hotel Zone and downtown, and a pricing structure that feels a bit like a shell game if you aren't paying attention.
Honestly, most people just head to the closest dock and hope for the best. That works, sure. But if you want to save money for an extra plate of tikinxic fish once you land, you have to know which dock belongs to which vibe.
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The Ultramar vs. Jetway Debate (Yes, There’s a Difference)
For years, Ultramar was the undisputed king. Their boats are huge, painted bright yellow and blue, and they have those air-conditioned cabins that feel like a godsend when it's 95 degrees out. They run most of the routes. They are the "big corporate" option.
Then there’s Jetway.
Jetway is the scrappy underdog. They only operate out of Puerto Juarez (the downtown-ish area), and their boats are smaller. But here’s the kicker: they’re usually cheaper. If you’re a local or a savvy expat, you go Jetway. If you’re staying in a fancy resort and don't mind dropping $30 USD for a round trip because the boat is 500 feet from your lobby, you stay in the Hotel Zone and take Ultramar.
Where exactly are these docks?
Location is everything. If you are staying at a place like the Riu Palace or the Hyatt Ziva, you have three spots in the Hotel Zone: Playa Tortugas, Playa Caracol, and El Embarcadero. These are convenient. They are also expensive. Expect to pay a "tourist tax" in the form of higher ticket prices just for the luxury of not taking a taxi to the "real" ferry terminal.
Puerto Juarez is the main hub. It's located just north of downtown Cancun (Centro). This is where the ferry to Isla Mujeres feels less like a tourist excursion and more like actual transportation. The boats leave every half hour starting at 5:30 AM. If you miss one, you just grab a coffee and wait twenty minutes. It’s seamless.
The Logistics: Tickets, Times, and That "Return" Trap
Don't buy your tickets from a random guy on the street. Just don't. Go to the official window.
One thing that trips people up is the "round trip" ticket. Usually, buying a round trip saves you a couple of bucks, but it locks you into that specific company. If you buy an Ultramar round trip and decide you want to leave the island earlier on a Jetway boat because the timing is better, your ticket is worthless. Given that the price difference is often negligible, buying two one-way tickets gives you way more flexibility.
You’ll see kiosks all over the island and the mainland. They take credit cards, which is nice, but the machines "break" more often than they should. Carry pesos. Seriously.
What about the luggage?
If you’re just going for a day trip with a backpack, just walk on. If you’re moving your whole life or staying for a week, they have a luggage area at the back of the boat. You hand your bags to the crew, they give you a little plastic tag, and they stack them up. It’s chaotic but it works.
Be warned: when the boat arrives at Isla Mujeres, the luggage unloading process is a bit of a scrum. People start crowding the exit before the boat is even tied up. Stay back. Relax. The island isn't going anywhere.
The "Secret" Car Ferry
Most people don't realize there is a whole separate ferry for cars. This leaves from Punta Sam, which is further north than Puerto Juarez. It's called Ultramar Carga.
Do you need a car on Isla Mujeres? Almost certainly not. The island is only 4 miles long. You can walk across the width of it in ten minutes. Bringing a rental car over is a logistical nightmare involving long wait times and narrow streets that were never meant for a Chevy Suburban. Unless you are moving furniture or have a severe mobility issue, leave the car in a parking lot at Puerto Juarez.
The parking lots at the ferry terminals are generally safe, gated, and cost about 200-300 pesos per day. It’s way cheaper than paying the car ferry fees and dealing with the headache of island traffic.
Seasickness and the "Top Deck" Experience
The crossing takes about 20 to 30 minutes. Most of the time, the water in the bay is like a lake. It's turquoise, clear, and calm.
But when a "Norte" (a cold front) blows in, the channel gets choppy.
If you get seasick, sit on the lower deck in the middle of the boat. The top deck is where the live music usually is—yes, there’s often a guy with a guitar singing "Guantanamera" for tips—and while the view is incredible, you’ll feel every roll of the waves. The breeze helps, but if the boat starts slamming into swells, the lower deck is much more stable.
Arriving at the Island: The Gauntlet
Once you step off the ferry to Isla Mujeres, you will be hit with a wall of noise and heat. This is the terminal area.
- Golf Cart Vendors: They will swarm you. If you haven't pre-booked a cart during high season (December-March), you might be out of luck or paying $100+ for a day.
- Taxis: There is a formal taxi line to the left as you exit. Use it. Don't haggle with drivers outside the line.
- The Walkers: If you’re heading to Playa Norte (the best beach), just turn left and walk for 10 minutes. You don't need a ride.
Real Talk on Timing and Crowds
If you show up at the Puerto Juarez terminal at 10:00 AM on a Saturday, you are going to be waiting in a long line. It's the peak time for day-trippers.
The move? Get there early.
The 7:30 AM or 8:00 AM ferry is a completely different experience. You’ll be sharing the boat with workers heading to the hotels and locals bringing over supplies. It’s quiet. You get to see the sun hitting the water at a low angle. By the time the 11:00 AM crowd arrives and starts fighting over the last available beach umbrella at North Beach, you’ll already be on your second coffee (or mimosa) with a prime spot by the water.
On the way back, the 5:00 PM and 6:00 PM ferries are packed. Everyone wants to see the sunset from the boat. If you hate crowds, leave at 4:00 PM or stay for dinner on the island and take the 9:00 PM boat. The island takes on a totally different vibe after the last big ferry loads leave. It gets quieter. The "real" Isla comes out.
Why the Hotel Zone Ferry Might Be a Mistake
I mentioned this earlier, but it bears repeating: the Hotel Zone ferries (Playa Tortugas/Caracol) run much less frequently. Sometimes there are only 4 or 5 departures a day.
If you spend your day on the island and miss the last boat back to your specific pier in the Hotel Zone, you'll have to take the ferry back to Puerto Juarez instead. Then you're stuck taking a 30-minute taxi or bus ride back to your hotel. It’s a waste of time and money. Always take a photo of the schedule at the dock before you board, because what’s posted online is "aspirational" at best.
Practical Steps for Your Trip
To make this actually work without the stress, follow this sequence:
- Check the wind. If the port is closed (rare, but happens during hurricanes or heavy storms), no ferries will run. Check the "Capitanía de Puerto" Facebook pages or just ask your hotel concierge.
- Go to Puerto Juarez. Use a "Colectivo" (shared van) from downtown Cancun for about 15 pesos if you want the ultra-budget experience, or an Uber/Didi (though be careful with Uber at the ferry docks as the taxi unions are aggressive).
- Buy a one-way ticket. This keeps your options open for the return trip.
- Have pesos ready. The exchange rate at the ticket window is usually terrible if you pay in USD.
- Head to the back of the boat if you want to be the first one off, or the top deck if you want the "I'm on vacation" photo.
- Walk to Playa Norte. Don't let the golf cart guys convince you that it’s a 5-mile trek. It’s a stroll.
The ferry to Isla Mujeres is basically the gateway to a much slower pace of life. Cancun is all high-rises and marble lobbies. Isla is dust, golf carts, and some of the best snorkeling in the Caribbean. The boat ride is the transition between those two worlds. If you do it right, it’s the easiest part of your vacation. If you do it wrong, you’re just another tourist sweating in a long line, wondering why you paid $35 for a 20-minute boat ride. Take the local route, save the cash, and get to the beach before everyone else does.