Fashion history likes to pretend it’s always been about "the look," but if we're being real, it’s mostly been about who gets invited to the party. For decades, that party was pretty much invite-only for white faces. Then came the disruptors. When you look at the trajectory of famous African American models, it isn't just a list of pretty people in expensive clothes; it’s a timeline of people who forced a rigid, often prejudiced industry to widen its lens.
It wasn't easy.
In the 1940s and 50s, Black models were largely confined to Black-interest publications like Ebony or Jet. The mainstream wouldn't touch them. They weren't "commercial" enough, or so the excuse went. But talent has a way of making excuses look stupid. From the early pioneers who worked in secret or lived as expats in Paris to the global icons who now command million-dollar contracts, the shift has been seismic.
The Battle for the Cover: Dorothea Towles and Donyale Luna
Before Naomi, there was Dorothea. Dorothea Towles Church basically decided that if America wasn't ready for her, she’d just go to the fashion capital of the world. In 1949, she moved to Paris and became the first successful Black fashion model in France, walking for Christian Dior and Elsa Schiaparelli. She’d come back to the States with trunks full of couture and tour Black colleges, showing women that they could be the blueprint for elegance. She was the proof of concept.
Then came Donyale Luna.
Honestly, Donyale was an enigma. Born Peggy Ann Freeman in Detroit, she reinvented herself as this ethereal, otherworldly creature. In 1966, she became the first Black woman on the cover of British Vogue. Think about that for a second. In the mid-60s, while the Civil Rights Movement was in the heat of the struggle, Donyale was staring back at people from newsstands in London.
She was thin—disturbingly so, some said—and her movements were more like performance art than a runway walk. Some editors were so terrified of the backlash that they’d sketch over her features or use lighting to make her look "ambiguous." But you couldn't hide that kind of presence. She paved the way for Beverly Johnson, who finally broke the Vogue US cover barrier in 1974. Johnson once said she didn't even realize how big a deal it was until she saw the magazine at the airport. That one cover changed everything. Suddenly, advertisers realized that Black beauty didn't just exist—it sold.
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The 1973 Battle of Versailles: A Turning Point
If you want to talk about famous African American models and you don't mention Versailles, you’re missing the whole story. This wasn't a real battle with weapons, obviously. It was a fashion show. Five French designers (including Saint Laurent and Givenchy) faced off against five American designers (like Halston and Oscar de la Renta).
The French had a massive budget and elaborate sets. The Americans had... a tape recorder and 36 models.
But 10 of those models were Black.
Pat Cleveland, Alva Chinn, Bethann Hardison, and Billie Blair basically walked onto that stage and electrified the room. While the French models were stiff and traditional, the Black American models danced. They moved with a rhythm and a confidence that the European elite had never seen. The audience—which included actual royalty—went wild. They threw their programs in the air. The Americans won by a landslide, and it was the Black models who carried that victory.
Bethann Hardison later became a massive advocate for diversity in the industry, founding the Black Alumni Network. She’s been very vocal about how the industry goes through "trends" of diversity. One year everyone wants Black models, the next year they’re back to "classic" (read: white) looks. Hardison’s work has been about making sure it’s not just a trend, but a permanent seat at the table.
The Supermodel Era and the "Big Five"
You can't talk about the 90s without Naomi Campbell. Period.
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Naomi wasn't just a model; she was a phenomenon. She was part of the original "Supermodels," the elite group that became more famous than the clothes they wore. But even at the height of her fame, she faced hurdles her white peers didn't. She’s talked openly about how Christy Turlington and Linda Evangelista would tell designers, "If you don't use Naomi, you don't get us."
That’s real solidarity.
Then you had Tyra Banks. While Naomi was the high-fashion queen, Tyra was the commercial juggernaut. She was the first Black woman on the cover of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue. She transitioned into television with America’s Next Top Model, which, for all its drama and "smize" memes, actually educated a whole generation on what the modeling industry looks like.
Why Representation Matters in Luxury
- Buying Power: Data shows that Black consumers have massive influence on global luxury trends.
- Brand Authenticity: In the 2020s, brands like Gucci and Prada realized that excluding Black talent wasn't just wrong; it was bad for business.
- Cultural Exchange: Models like Adut Akech and Anok Yai (who was discovered at a college homecoming) bring a global perspective that transcends borders.
The Modern Disruptors: From Instagram to the Runway
Today, being one of the most famous African American models isn't just about how you walk; it’s about your voice. Someone like Paloma Elsesser is a great example. She’s a plus-size Black model who has completely redefined what "editorial" looks like. She’s not just there to fill a quota; she’s there because she’s a powerhouse.
Precious Lee is another one. Seeing her on the cover of Vogue or walking for Versace is a huge departure from the "heroin chic" era of the 90s. We’re finally seeing a broader range of Blackness—different skin tones, hair textures, and body types.
And let’s talk about the men. Tyson Beckford was basically the first Black male supermodel. His Ralph Lauren campaigns in the 90s were iconic. He proved that Black masculinity could be marketed as the pinnacle of luxury and "All-American" style. Today, you see guys like Alton Mason, who was the first Black male model to walk for Chanel. His movement is more like dancing—it’s fluid and expressive, echoing that Versailles energy from decades ago.
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The Reality of the "Diversity Trend"
Is it all perfect now? Kinda, but not really.
There’s still a lot of "tokenism." You'll see a runway with 30 models and maybe two or three are Black. Or you’ll see a brand hire a Black model but then fail to hire a hair stylist who knows how to work with textured hair. Many famous African American models have shared stories of having to do their own makeup or hair backstage because the professionals on site had no idea what they were doing.
Iman, the Somali-American icon who married David Bowie, actually started her own cosmetics line because she was tired of mixing her own foundations on set. She saw a gap in the market and filled it. That’s the kind of business savvy that often comes from being marginalized—you learn to build your own tools when the ones provided don't work for you.
How to Support and Follow the Movement
If you’re interested in the evolution of fashion and the roles these icons play, it’s about more than just double-tapping a photo on Instagram. It’s about understanding the history and the labor that went into making that photo possible.
- Research the Legends: Look into the "Black Girls Coalition" formed in 1988. It was a literal union for Black models to fight for better pay and visibility.
- Follow the Change-Makers: Look for agencies like Zephan de la Rue or groups that specifically scout diverse talent.
- Check the Masthead: See who is taking the photos. A Black model in front of the lens is great, but a Black photographer (like Tyler Mitchell, who shot Beyoncé for Vogue) changes the whole perspective.
- Demand Consistency: Don't just celebrate brands during Black History Month. Look at their campaigns year-round. Are they actually inclusive, or are they just checking a box?
The story of the most famous African American models is ultimately a story of resilience. It’s about people who were told "no" for no good reason and decided to do it anyway. They didn't just change the industry; they changed how the world perceives beauty. When you see a young girl today looking at a billboard and seeing someone who looks like her, that’s the result of decades of fighting, traveling, and proving that Black is not just beautiful—it's essential to the fabric of fashion.
To truly understand this impact, look at the archives of photographers like Richard Avedon or Steven Meisel. You can see the shift in how Black models were framed—moving from "exotic" props to central, powerful protagonists. This transition wasn't accidental. It was forced by the sheer talent and tenacity of the women and men who refused to stay in the background.
The next time you see a major fashion campaign, look past the clothes. Look at the face, the posture, and the history behind that person being in that frame. You’re looking at a legacy of barrier-breaking that is still being written today.