So, you’ve got a first-gen BRZ or an FR-S. It's a great car, handles like a dream, but let’s be real—the FA20 under the hood can feel a little... thin. You want more. Specifically, you want that 2.4-liter punch from the newer GR86, but you also want a snail. The fa24 turbo swap brz is basically the "final boss" build for this chassis. It's the engine the car should have had from the factory, combined with the boost it always deserved.
But here is the thing. Doing this right isn't just about bolting parts together and hoping for the best. I’ve seen enough "part out" threads to know that cutting corners on an FA24 swap is the fastest way to turn your garage into a graveyard of expensive Japanese aluminum.
The Reality of the FA24 Turbo Swap BRZ
Most people think they can just yank an engine out of a wrecked 2023 BRZ and it’ll "bolt right up." It does, and it doesn't. While the engine mounts largely line up with some slight modification—basically cutting a small protrusion off the FA20 mount or widening the subframe slot—the electronics are where the headaches start.
The FA24 uses different sensors for oil temperature, coolant, and the evap purge solenoid. If you're swapping this into a 2013–2016 car, you’re also dealing with different cam reluctor wheels. You basically have to crack open a perfectly good engine to swap the timing wheels so the older ECU can actually understand what the cams are doing. It's nerve-wracking.
Then there’s the turbo part. You aren't just swapping an engine; you're adding a forced induction system to a high-compression motor. The FA24 runs a 12.5:1 compression ratio. That is high for boost. If your tuner isn't a wizard, or if you're trying to run 20 PSI on pump gas, you’re going to have a very short, very loud relationship with your new engine.
Why Everyone Is Obsessing Over This Swap
Honestly, the torque. The FA20's "torque dip" is legendary for all the wrong reasons. The FA24 basically deletes that dip from existence even in NA form. When you add a turbo, like the AVO or HKS kits, you're looking at a powerband that stays flat and aggressive from 3,000 RPM all the way to redline.
A well-sorted fa24 turbo swap brz can easily hit 350 to 400 wheel horsepower on E85. In a car that weighs under 2,800 pounds? That’s supercar-killing territory. But you’ve got to be smart about the "supporting" mods. People love to spend $6,000 on an engine and $5,000 on a turbo kit, then try to use the stock radiator. Don't be that guy.
The "RTV" Elephant in the Room
If you’ve spent any time on the forums, you’ve heard about the RTV issue. Subaru went a bit heavy on the liquid gasket for the FA24 oil pans. Over time, little bits of that grey silicone can break off and clog the oil pickup tube.
When you do this swap, drop the pan. Seriously. Just take it off, clean out the pickup, and reseal it yourself with a sane amount of gasket maker. It’s a two-hour job that saves a $7,000 engine. While you’re in there, a baffle from Verus Engineering or Killer B is pretty much mandatory if you plan on doing anything more aggressive than a grocery run.
What You Actually Need (The Parts List)
You can’t just buy a "kit" for the whole swap yet—at least not a single-box solution. You’re looking at a puzzle.
- The Long Block: You want a complete FA24. Buying just the short block and trying to use FA20 heads is a path to madness.
- Wiring Adapters: Shops like Hachi Electronics make harness adapters for the sensors. Without these, you’ll be stripping wires and crying in your driveway.
- The DI Controller: You have to transfer your original Direct Injection controller and its bracket.
- Fueling: If you’re going turbo, the stock injectors won't cut it. Most people jump to 1050cc injectors and a high-flow fuel pump (AEM or DW300).
- Cooling: An oil cooler is not optional. The FA24 runs hot. A turbo makes it hotter. Without a dedicated oil cooler, you’ll see 250°F oil temps after one pull.
The Cost: It's Not Cheap
Let's talk numbers. A used FA24 is going for around $4,000 to $6,000 depending on mileage. A decent turbo kit (think JDL or MAPerformance) is another $5,000. Add in tuning via EcuTek, the swap harness, fueling upgrades, and a clutch that won't slip immediately?
You’re looking at $12,000 to $15,000.
Is it worth it? If you love the chassis and want a reliable, modern power plant that feels like a baby Porsche, then yeah. If you just want a fast car for the least amount of money, go buy a used Mustang. This is a project for the purists who want the "ultimate" version of the ZN6/ZC6 platform.
Tuning and Longevity
The FA24 is sturdier than the FA20, but it still has its limits. The rods are beefier, but they aren't invincible. Most reputable tuners, like the guys at CSG (CounterSpace Garage), suggest keeping torque around 300-320 lb-ft to keep the engine together long-term.
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One major thing: the oiling system. In high-G right-hand turns, these engines can starve. If you’re building an fa24 turbo swap brz for the track, look into an Accusump or a modified oil pickup. It’s better to spend $800 on oiling mods now than $8,000 on a new engine in six months.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Build
If you’re serious about pulling the trigger, don't start by buying the engine. Start by finding your tuner.
Talk to a professional who knows the FA platform inside and out. Ask them which harness they prefer and which turbo manifold fits the FA24's slightly different exhaust port geometry. Once you have a roadmap and a tuner locked in, then you source the motor.
Check the RTV in the pickup tube before the engine ever enters the bay. Install a high-quality oil cooler from day one. And for the love of all things fast, don't forget to upgrade your brakes—350 horsepower feels a lot different than 200 when you're approaching a hairpin turn.