Big dogs are great, but they are also a logistical nightmare. If you own a Great Dane, a Mastiff, or even a particularly leggy German Shepherd, you already know the struggle. You can't just walk into a local Petco and grab the first thing you see. Most of those "large" options are actually built for Labradors. If your dog’s head hits the ceiling when they sit up, that's not a home; it's a cage. Honestly, extra large dog crates are more like pieces of furniture or structural additions to your house than they are simple pet accessories.
Size matters. Obviously.
But it isn't just about the floor space. It’s about the verticality and the weight rating of the pan. Most people buy a crate based on the weight of the dog, which is a mistake. You should be measuring from the floor to the top of their head while they’re sitting. If you don't, you end up with a dog that develops neck issues or simply refuses to go inside because they feel cramped. Giant breeds like the Irish Wolfhound can stand nearly 35 inches at the shoulder. Put that dog in a standard 48-inch crate and you’ve got a recipe for a miserable pet.
The 54-inch reality check
Most "standard" big crates stop at 48 inches. For a 120-pound dog, that's just too small. You need to be looking at the 54-inch models, often referred to as "Colossal" or "Giant" crates by brands like MidWest Homes for Pets. These things are massive. They take up a significant chunk of a living room. We’re talking about roughly 15 square feet of floor space.
Weight is the silent killer here. A thin plastic tray at the bottom of a cheap crate will crack under the weight of a 150-pound Saint Bernard within a month. Look for heavy-duty composite trays or, better yet, galvanized steel. Some high-end manufacturers like Impact Dog Crates or Ray Allen Manufacturing focus on aluminum because it’s lighter than steel but won't snap like plastic. They’re expensive. Like, "down payment on a used car" expensive. But they last forever.
Why "heavy duty" is often a marketing lie
You've seen them on Amazon. The crates with the thick square bars that look like a shark cage. They're usually marketed as "indestructible."
Here is the truth: many of those are made with cheap, hollow lead-based alloys or poorly welded joints. If you have a dog with high separation anxiety—the kind of dog that truly needs an extra large dog crate because they’ve eaten through your drywall—those cheap "heavy duty" cages can be dangerous. I’ve seen photos of dogs that have bent those bars and gotten their heads stuck. It’s terrifying.
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If you actually have a "Houdini" dog, you need a crate with narrow bar spacing and reinforced corners. Check the welds. A real heavy-duty crate should have reinforced steel 20-gauge or thicker. Brands like Lucky Dog or even the high-end Tuff Kennels are built for this. They aren't pretty. They look like something used to transport tigers. But they keep your dog safe and your house intact.
Soft vs. Hard Crates for Giants
Can you use a soft-sided crate for an XL dog?
Maybe.
If your dog is a "couch potato" Greyhoud who just wants a dark cave, a soft crate like those from EliteField can work. They’re great for travel because they fold down. But if your dog leans against the wall? The whole thing collapses. If they see a squirrel out the window? They’ll go right through the mesh. For 90% of giant breed owners, wire or aluminum is the only real choice.
The "Bedroom" vs. the "Dungeon"
We need to talk about placement. An extra large dog crate is basically a small shed. You can't just tuck it behind the sofa.
A lot of owners are moving toward furniture-style crates. These are the ones made of wood (or MDF) that look like credenzas or end tables. They look fantastic in a Pinterest-perfect living room. However, there is a massive caveat here. If your dog is a chewer, they will destroy a $1,000 wooden crate in forty-five minutes. Most furniture crates are also not ventilated enough for thick-coated breeds like Newfoundlands. These dogs run hot. They need airflow. If you go the furniture route, ensure it has bars on at least three sides, not just the front.
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Real Talk on Anxiety and Space
There’s a common misconception that a bigger crate is always better. That isn't strictly true. If a crate is too big, a puppy might use one end as a bedroom and the other end as a bathroom. This ruins house training.
The "Goldilocks" zone for a crate is enough room for the dog to:
- Stand up without hunching their back.
- Turn around in a full circle without hitting the sides.
- Lie flat on their side with paws extended.
If you have a growing puppy, buy the 54-inch crate but make sure it comes with a divider panel. This allows you to "grow" the crate with the dog. You save money, and the dog stays potty trained. It's a win-sorta-win situation.
Logistics of the "Big Box"
Shipping an extra large dog crate is a nightmare. These boxes are heavy, often exceeding 80 pounds. When you order one online, check the box immediately upon delivery. Wire crates are notorious for getting bent in transit. If the frame is warped, the door won't latch correctly. A door that doesn't latch securely on a 100-pound dog is effectively a suggestion, not a barrier.
Also, consider the door swing. Most XL crates have a side door and a front door. Think about where it's going in your house. Will the door hit the coffee table? Will it block the hallway? Some newer models use "garage style" doors that lift up and stow on top of the crate. These are absolute game-changers for tight spaces.
Maintenance and the "Big Dog Smell"
Let’s be real: big dogs can be stinky. Their crates trap hair, dander, and slobber.
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If you get a wire crate, cleaning is easier. You can literally take it outside and hose it down. But the tray is where the gunk lives. I always recommend putting a thin, washable orthopedic bed inside. Standard foam beds usually flatten out under the weight of a giant dog within months. Look for 4-inch thick memory foam. Big dogs are prone to hip dysplasia and arthritis; sleeping on a hard plastic tray is basically torture for their joints.
A great tip I learned from a Great Dane breeder: place a piece of plywood or a heavy rubber mat under the crate. This protects your hardwood floors from the metal scratching them and provides a bit more stability so the crate doesn't "walk" across the floor if the dog gets excited.
Expert Insight: The Safety Factor
Dr. Marty Becker and other veterinary experts often emphasize that crates should never be used as punishment. For a giant breed, the crate is their sanctuary. Because these dogs are so large, they often get "in the way" of human foot traffic. The crate gives them a place where they know they won't be stepped on.
But you have to be careful with collars. Never, ever leave a choke chain or a loose martingale collar on a dog in a crate. There have been tragic instances where a collar gets snagged on a wire junction, and a large dog's strength actually makes the situation worse as they panic.
What to look for when buying:
- Wire Gauge: Look for 6, 8, or 9 gauge wire. Anything thinner is for toy breeds.
- Latch Mechanism: Dual latches are non-negotiable. One at the top, one at the bottom.
- Portability: Does it have wheels? If it doesn't, you aren't moving it. Ever.
- Coating: Electro-coat finishes are better than paint, which flakes off and can be ingested.
The Cost of Quality
You're going to spend money. A decent wire extra large dog crate starts around $150. A high-end aluminum or reinforced steel one can easily hit $800 to $1,200. It feels like a lot. But think about the cost of a dog eating a leather sofa or, worse, a foreign body surgery because they chewed up a piece of the wall.
Compared to a $3,000 vet bill, a $600 crate is a bargain.
Actionable Next Steps for Owners
Stop guessing. Grab a fabric measuring tape and get the actual dimensions of your dog.
- Measure Height: Floor to the top of the head while sitting. Add 2-4 inches.
- Measure Length: Tip of the nose to the base of the tail. Add 4 inches.
- Check the Floor: Verify your floor can handle the concentrated weight. A crate plus a 150-pound dog is a lot of pressure on a small area of laminate or hardwood.
- Audit Your Entryways: Measure your front door and the door to the room where the crate will live. Many XL crates are 30+ inches wide. Some standard interior doors are only 28 or 30 inches. You might have to assemble the crate inside the final room.
- Upgrade the Bedding: Toss the cheap poly-fill bed. Invest in a real orthopedic mattress designed for giant breeds. Your dog's joints will thank you in five years.
Choosing the right crate isn't just about containment. It’s about providing a den that actually fits the scale of your dog's life. Don't settle for "large" when your dog is truly extra large. It makes all the difference in their comfort and your peace of mind.