You just spent two grand on a Neo QLED. The picture is gorgeous. It’s crisp. The blacks are deep enough to lose your remote in. Then you turn on an action movie, and suddenly, the explosions sound like someone popping bubble wrap inside a tin can. It’s frustrating. Samsung makes some of the best displays on the planet, but let’s be real: physical space is the enemy of good sound. You can’t fit a high-quality driver into a chassis that’s thinner than a smartphone. That is why external speakers for Samsung TV setups aren't just a "nice to have" anymore—they are basically mandatory if you want the audio to match the visual.
Most people think they just need "louder." They don't. They need dynamic range. They need to hear the whispered dialogue in a prestige drama without having to crank the volume to 80, only to be blasted out of their seat when a car commercial starts.
The Q-Symphony Factor
If you own a Samsung set from the last few years, you've probably seen the marketing for Q-Symphony. Usually, when you plug in a soundbar, the TV speakers go mute. They just sit there. Q-Symphony changes that by keeping the TV's top-firing speakers active while the external speakers handle the heavy lifting. It creates this vertical soundstage that makes it feel like the voices are actually coming from the actors' mouths rather than from the bottom of the screen.
But here’s the catch. It only works with specific Samsung soundbars. If you try to hook up a high-end Sonos Arc or a Bose Smart Ultra, you lose that synergy. Is it a dealbreaker? Honestly, no. A top-tier third-party bar will almost always outperform a mid-range Samsung bar, even with Q-Symphony enabled. You have to decide if you want the "ecosystem" benefits or raw acoustic power.
Optical vs. HDMI ARC/eARC: The Great Connection Debate
I still see people using optical cables. Stop. Just stop.
Optical (Toslink) was great in 2005. Today, it’s a bottleneck. It can’t handle Dolby Atmos. It can’t handle DTS:X. If you’re investing in external speakers for Samsung TV, you need to use the HDMI eARC (Enhanced Audio Return Channel) port. Samsung has been pretty good about labeling these, usually HDMI 3 or 4 on the back of the panel.
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Using eARC allows your TV to send uncompressed, high-bitrate audio to your speakers. It also means you can use your Samsung remote to control the volume of the speakers. One remote. No clutter. It’s just easier. Plus, if you're a gamer on a PS5 or Xbox Series X, eARC is the only way to ensure your spatial audio isn't lagging behind the 120Hz refresh rate of your screen.
Why a Pair of Bookshelf Speakers Might Beat Your Soundbar
Soundbars are convenient. They’re slim. They fit under the screen. But they are essentially a compromise.
If you actually care about music or a wide soundstage, a pair of active bookshelf speakers—like the Kanto YU6 or the Klipsch The Fives—will absolutely wreck a soundbar in the same price bracket. Why? Physics. Larger cabinets mean larger drivers and better air displacement. You get real stereo separation. When a car drives across the screen, you actually hear it move from left to right in a way a 36-inch soundbar just can't replicate.
Most of these active speakers now come with HDMI ARC inputs. You plug them in exactly like a soundbar. You get the same "one remote" convenience but with actual hi-fi sound. It’s a sleeper setup that most people ignore because soundbars are marketed so aggressively.
Dealing with the "Samsung Sound"
Samsung TVs have a specific way of processing audio. They love to push the highs. Sometimes it gets a bit "tinny." When choosing external speakers for Samsung TV, look for something with a warmer sound profile. Brands like Wharfedale or even certain Sony systems tend to balance out that clinical sharpness that comes out of the Samsung processor.
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Also, check your TV settings. Navigate to Sound > Expert Settings. If you’re using external gear, make sure "Digital Output Audio Format" is set to Pass-Through. You want the TV to stay out of the way. Let the speakers do the decoding. If you leave it on "Auto," the TV might try to "help" and end up compressing the signal, which defeats the purpose of buying nice gear in the first place.
The Wireless Myth
Can you use Bluetooth speakers? Technically, yes. Should you? Absolutely not.
Bluetooth has latency. On a Samsung TV, you might notice the lips of the actors moving a fraction of a second before you hear the words. It’s maddening once you spot it. If you absolutely must go wireless, you need to look at Samsung’s "Wireless Dolby Atmos" compatible bars or a system like WiSA. But for 99% of people, a single HDMI cable is the only way to go. It’s reliable. It doesn't drop out when someone turns on the microwave.
Real-World Comparisons: What to Actually Buy
I’ve tested dozens of these. If you have a massive budget and a Samsung S95D OLED, just get the Samsung HW-Q990D. It’s an 11.1.4 channel monster. It comes with rear speakers and a massive sub. Because it’s the same brand, the setup takes about thirty seconds. It’s the "easy button" for home theater.
However, if you're in a smaller apartment, that's overkill. You’ll just annoy the neighbors. Something like the Sonos Beam (Gen 2) is a better fit. It’s compact, but the virtualized Atmos is surprisingly convincing. Just keep in mind that Samsung TVs do not support DTS Play-Fi, so don't bother looking for speakers that rely on that protocol.
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- Check your clearance. Measure the distance between the bottom of your TV and the stand. Some Samsung stands are very low, and a tall soundbar will block the bottom of the screen (and the IR sensor).
- Subwoofer placement. Don't just shove it in a corner. It’ll sound "boomy" and muddy. Pull it out a few inches or put it near your seating position.
- Firmware updates. I know it’s annoying, but update your TV and your speakers. Samsung frequently releases patches that fix "handshake" issues where the TV suddenly stops recognizing the external speakers.
Getting the Most Out of Your Investment
Don't just plug it in and walk away. Once your external speakers for Samsung TV are connected, run the "SpaceFit Sound" calibration if your hardware supports it. It uses the microphones in the TV and the bar to measure how sound bounces off your walls. Every room is different. A minimalist room with hardwood floors needs different EQ than a carpeted basement with a velvet sofa.
If you’re using a traditional receiver and passive speakers, pay attention to the "Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC)" setting in the Samsung menu. It needs to be ON. If it's off, your TV and receiver won't talk to each other, and you'll find yourself juggling three different remotes just to watch the news.
The goal here isn't just to make the TV louder. It's to make it immersive. When you stop thinking about the speakers and start just feeling the movie, that's when you know you've set it up right.
Actionable Steps for Better Audio:
- Identify your port: Locate the HDMI (eARC) port on your Samsung One Connect box or the back of the panel. Ensure you are using a High-Speed HDMI cable (Category 2 or 3) to support Atmos.
- Toggle Pass-Through: Go to Settings > Sound > Expert Settings and change "Digital Output Audio Format" to Pass-Through to prevent the TV from degrading the audio signal.
- Disable Internal Processing: Turn off "Intelligent Mode" if you find the volume jumping up and down unexpectedly during commercials; this feature often conflicts with external speaker processing.
- Test for Sync: Play a video with a clear "clap" or percussive sound. If it's off, use the "Audio Delay" setting in the Expert Settings menu to align the sound with the picture.
- Acoustic Treatment: If the sound feels too sharp, place a rug between your seating area and the TV. This reduces floor reflections which can make Samsung's native audio processing sound harsh on external speakers.