Escape from New York Pizza Portland OR: Why This NW 23rd Legend Still Wins the Pizza War

Escape from New York Pizza Portland OR: Why This NW 23rd Legend Still Wins the Pizza War

Walk down NW 23rd Avenue on a Friday night and you’ll smell it before you see it. It’s that specific, sharp scent of high-gluten flour hitting a hot stone deck, mingled with the acidic tang of a sauce that hasn't been buried under a mountain of sugar. We are talking about Escape from New York Pizza Portland OR, a place that has basically outlasted every food trend the Rose City has thrown at it since the early eighties. While other spots are busy infusing their crusts with activated charcoal or topping pies with gold leaf and edible flowers, these guys are just... making pizza. Honestly, it’s kind of a miracle they haven't changed.

In a city that prides itself on "keeping it weird," Escape from New York stays stubbornly normal. And by normal, I mean New York normal.

Phil Geffner opened the doors back in 1983. Think about that for a second. In 1983, Portland wasn't a "foodie destination." It was a timber and shipping town where finding a decent bagel was a genuine struggle. Geffner brought a slice of Greenwich Village to the Pacific Northwest and, remarkably, he didn't compromise to fit the local palate. He didn't offer ranch dressing. He didn't put pineapple on the menu. He just made the kind of pizza he grew up eating in the East Coast.

The "No Toppings" Philosophy that Drives People Crazy

If you walk in expecting a 50-item topping list, you’re going to be disappointed. Or maybe enlightened?

Escape from New York Pizza Portland OR is famous for its limitations. You want chicken? No. Pesto? Keep walking. Corn? Absolutely not. They do the basics: pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms, onions, peppers, and garlic. That’s pretty much the extent of the "vegetable garden" here.

There’s a reason for this minimalism. When you have fewer ingredients, those ingredients have nowhere to hide. The cheese has to be high-quality whole-milk mozzarella. The sauce has to be bright. The dough—which is aged and hand-tossed—is the real star. It’s thin, but it has that essential "chew" and a structural integrity that allows you to fold a slice without it disintegrating into a greasy mess.

Some people call the staff "curmudgeonly." I prefer the term "efficient." They aren't there to hear your life story or discuss the flavor profile of a microbrew. They are there to get a screaming hot slice onto a paper plate and into your hands. It's a high-volume environment. It’s fast. It’s loud. It’s exactly what a pizza shop should be.

Why Escape from New York Pizza Portland OR Still Dominates the Conversation

You see it on Reddit, you see it on Yelp, and you hear it in line at the grocery store: "Is it actually like New York?"

That's the million-dollar question. As someone who has spent way too much time eating $1.50 slices in Manhattan, I’d say it’s the closest thing you’ll find in the 503 area code. It’s not just about the recipe. It’s about the oven. They use old-school Deck Ovens. These aren't the conveyor belt machines you see at chain places that produce a uniform, soul-less crust. Deck ovens require a human being with a long-handled peel to move the pies around, checking for hot spots and ensuring the bottom gets that perfect char.

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It’s labor-intensive. It’s hot. It’s imprecise. And it’s why the pizza tastes better.

The Cash-Only Era and Moving Forward

For decades, if you didn't have a ten-dollar bill in your pocket, you weren't getting fed. It was one of those quirky Portland traditions. You’d stand in line, realize you only had a Visa, and have to sheepishly duck out to find an ATM.

Thankfully, they eventually entered the 21st century and started accepting cards, but the "vibe" remains firmly rooted in 1983. The walls are covered in photos and memorabilia that feel earned, not curated by an interior designer trying to "capture a look." It’s authentic because it’s old.

The Science of the Slice

Let's get nerdy for a minute. The "New York Style" is defined by a few specific technical markers:

  • The Flour: High-protein bread flour is non-negotiable. This is what creates the gluten structure capable of being stretched paper-thin without tearing.
  • The Water: There’s a persistent myth that New York pizza is better because of the water in the Catskills. While mineral content matters, Portland actually has some of the best municipal water in the country for baking. It’s soft, which helps the yeast do its thing.
  • The Fermentation: You can't rush this. A quick-rise dough tastes like cardboard. Escape from New York understands the cold-fermentation process, which allows enzymes to break down starches into flavorful sugars.
  • The Fold: A true slice must be foldable. If it cracks, it’s too dry. If it flops like a wet noodle, it’s undercooked.

When you grab a slice of pepperoni at Escape from New York Pizza Portland OR, you'll notice the "orange grease" phenomenon. To the uninitiated, this looks like a flaw. To the connoisseur, it’s the nectar of the gods. It’s the result of the fat from the pepperoni rendering down and mingling with the cheese and the acidity of the sauce. It’s a flavor bomb.

Addressing the "No Ranch" Controversy

In the Pacific Northwest, ranch dressing is practically a beverage. People dip everything in it. Pizza, fries, salad, maybe even their morning coffee if they're feeling adventurous.

Phil Geffner’s stance on ranch has become a piece of Portland lore. He famously hates it. There are stories of people being told—politely or otherwise—that if they want ranch, there’s a grocery store down the street where they can buy a bottle and take their pizza home to ruin it.

Is it elitist? Maybe. But there’s something admirable about a business owner who has a vision and sticks to it. By refusing to provide ranch, they are making a statement: "The pizza is enough." They spent forty years perfecting the balance of salt, fat, and acid. Drowning that in a buttermilk-based dressing is, in their eyes, an insult to the craft.

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Honestly, I respect the pettiness. It’s refreshing.

Where EFNY Fits in the Modern Portland Pizza Scene

Portland is currently in a pizza renaissance. You’ve got Apizza Scholls doing incredible neo-Neapolitan/New Haven style. You’ve got Scottie’s Pizza Parlor doing the sourdough thing. You’ve got Ken’s Artisan Pizza, which is consistently ranked among the best in the nation.

So, where does Escape from New York fit?

It’s the "everyday" champion. It’s not a sit-down, three-course meal kind of place. It’s the place you go when you have fifteen minutes, six bucks, and a craving that won't quit. It’s the "blue-collar" hero of NW 23rd. Amidst the high-end boutiques and the $15 salt-and-straw ice cream cones, EFNY remains affordable and accessible.

It’s also one of the few places in town where you can get a consistent slice. Many shops struggle with slice-quality because the pizza sits around too long. At EFNY, the turnover is so high that the pizza rarely has time to get tired.

What to Order (If You Want to Look Like a Local)

  1. The Plain Cheese: If you want to judge a pizza shop, you start here. No toppings to hide behind. It’s the purest expression of their craft.
  2. The Garlic Slice: They don't mess around with garlic. It’s not powder; it’s the real deal. Be prepared to breathe fire for the rest of the afternoon.
  3. The Pesto (Wait, did I say no pesto?): Okay, they occasionally have specials or specific variations, but generally, stick to the board.
  4. Pepperoni and Mushroom: The classic combo. The mushrooms provide an earthy counterpoint to the salty pepperoni.

Don't ask for a side of "extra sauce." Don't ask for "light bake." Just take what they give you. They know what they’re doing.

The Cultural Impact of 622 NW 23rd Ave

It’s hard to overstate how much this shop has anchored the neighborhood. NW 23rd has changed drastically. It went from a bohemian enclave to a high-rent "Trendland." Small shops have been replaced by national brands. Yet, Escape from New York Pizza Portland OR remains.

It’s a communal space. You’ll see a construction worker sitting next to a corporate lawyer, both of them hunched over a paper plate, trying not to get sauce on their shirts. It’s one of the last true equalizers in the city.

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The shop also represents a specific era of Portland history—the pre-Portlandia years. It reminds us that before we were a parody of ourselves, we were just a place that appreciated a damn good slice of pizza.

Dealing with the Crowds

If you show up at 12:30 PM on a Saturday, you’re going to wait. The line often snakes out the door.

Here’s the pro tip: Go at 2:30 PM or 4:00 PM. Or better yet, go late. There’s something special about eating a slice on the sidewalk under the streetlights of Nob Hill.

Also, understand the ordering system. It’s not complicated, but it’s fast. Know what you want before you get to the counter. Don't be the person holding up the line because you can't decide between sausage and pepperoni. (Hint: Get both).

Common Misconceptions About EFNY

  • "It's too salty." New York pizza is salty. It’s part of the flavor profile. If you want bland, go to a chain.
  • "The crust is too burnt." That’s called char, and it’s intentional. It adds a smoky bitterness that cuts through the rich cheese.
  • "They are mean." They aren't mean; they’re busy. Don't mistake brevity for hostility.

Actionable Steps for Your Visit

If you're planning a trip to Escape from New York Pizza Portland OR, here is how to maximize the experience:

  • Bring a friend: The whole pies are massive. A 18-inch pie is more than enough for three people.
  • Check the hours: They aren't open 24/7. They usually close around 10:00 PM or 11:00 PM, so don't expect a 2 AM post-bar slice.
  • Walk the neighborhood: Grab your slice and walk a few blocks. Couch Park is nearby if you want to sit on a bench and people-watch while you eat.
  • Skip the "gourmet" expectations: This is a no-frills zone. No fancy plates, no cloth napkins. Just great food.

In the end, Escape from New York isn't trying to be the most innovative pizza place in the world. They aren't trying to win awards or get a Netflix documentary. They are trying to be a consistent, reliable, and delicious slice shop. In 2026, in a world that feels increasingly artificial, that kind of authenticity is worth its weight in gold—or at least in pepperoni.

If you want to understand the soul of Portland's food scene, you have to start here. Forget the foams and the deconstructed desserts for a night. Get a slice, fold it, and realize that sometimes, the old way is still the best way.


Next Steps:
Go to NW 23rd this week. Order a pepperoni slice. Stand at the counter. Notice the lack of ranch. Eat. Repeat.