If you walk down Whitehead Street in Key West, you’ll see the usual suspects: tourists with melting ice cream, roosters strutting like they own the sidewalk, and the massive limestone walls of the Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum. But look closer at those walls. Or rather, look at the furry residents lounging on top of them.
You’ve probably heard the rumors. People call them "Hemingway cats," and they aren't your average backyard tabbies. Most of them have extra toes. Some look like they’re wearing oversized mittens; others just have wide, sturdy paws that make them look like they could catch a baseball.
There’s a lot of myth-making around these animals. Honestly, Key West is a town built on tall tales, so that’s not surprising. But the actual history of the ernest hemingway house key west cats is a weird, charming mix of maritime superstition, genetic persistence, and a very long legal battle with the federal government.
How a Ship Captain’s Gift Started Everything
It basically all started with a kitten named Snow White.
Back in the 1930s, Hemingway was a regular at the local docks. He struck up a friendship with a sea captain named Stanley Dexter. Now, sailors were notoriously superstitious, and they loved polydactyl cats—the technical term for cats with extra digits. They believed those extra toes gave the cats better balance on rocky ships and made them superior mousers.
Captain Dexter gave Hemingway a white polydactyl kitten. Hemingway’s sons, Patrick and Gregory, named her Snow White.
Today, about 60 cats live on the property. Are they all direct descendants of Snow White? That’s what the museum tells you. Biologically, it’s a bit more complex. Key West is a tiny island. Inbreeding and local roaming over 90 years mean the gene pool is pretty intertwined. But the lineage is kept alive through a very specific breeding program. While most of the cats are spayed or neutered to keep the population stable, the museum keeps a couple of "intact" pairs to ensure the six-toed line doesn't die out.
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The Famous Names and "Absolute Honesty"
Hemingway famously said, "A cat has absolute emotional honesty." He wasn't a guy known for being soft, but he was a total sucker for these "purr factories."
One of the coolest traditions at the house is the naming convention. Hemingway named his cats after famous people of his era. We’re talking actors, writers, and artists. The museum carries this on today. If you visit, you might run into Audrey Hepburn napping on a brick walkway or Charlie Chaplin staring judge-y at your flip-flops.
Some of the current "celebrity" residents include:
- Gertrude Stein (usually found near the bookstore)
- Harry S. Truman
- Sophia Loren
- Pablo Picasso
The staff actually keeps a "cat book" behind the counter. It tracks every birth, name, and medical record. It’s not just a hobby; it’s a full-scale operation.
That Time the Government Tried to Regulate the Cats
Here is something most people don't know: the cats were once at the center of a federal lawsuit.
Around 2003, a visitor got worried about the cats' welfare and complained to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA). The government swooped in and argued that because the museum used the cats in advertisements and charged admission, the cats were "exhibited animals."
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The USDA wanted the museum to treat the cats like zoo animals. They talked about caging them at night or putting up huge electric fences.
The museum fought back. It took nearly a decade. Eventually, in 2012, a federal appeals court ruled that the USDA did have the power to regulate the cats because they affect "interstate commerce"—mostly because people travel across state lines to see them.
Luckily, everyone reached a middle ground. The cats still roam free, but the museum has to jump through a lot of hoops, including weekly vet visits and strict health protocols. They are probably the most medically pampered cats in the world. They even have their own dedicated "cat lawyer" on retainer.
Survival of the Fittest: Hurricanes and Thick Walls
People always ask: "What happens to the cats during a hurricane?"
Key West gets hammered. When Hurricane Irma hit in 2017 as a Category 4, the mandatory evacuation orders were intense. But the museum staff stayed behind. 10 humans and 54 cats hunkered down inside the house.
The house was built in 1851 out of 18-inch-thick native limestone. It’s a fortress. The curator, David Gonzales, noted that as the pressure dropped, the cats actually knew what was coming. They didn't panic. They just followed the staff inside. They had enough food and water for weeks.
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When the sun came up, every single cat was accounted for. Not a single scratch.
What You Should Know Before You Go
If you’re planning to visit the ernest hemingway house key west cats, don’t expect a petting zoo. These cats are the bosses of the property.
- They have "the gene" even if they don't have the toes. About half the cats on the property look like normal four-toed cats. However, they all carry the polydactyl DNA. A four-toed Hemingway cat can still father a six-toed kitten.
- The "Thumb" is the most common. Most of the polydactyls have the extra digit on the front paws, which makes them look like they have thumbs. It’s officially called "pre-axial polydactyly."
- Respect the bed. The cats are allowed on the furniture. They sleep on Hemingway's actual bed (well, the replica bedspread). Visitors are allowed to look, but don't try to shoo a cat off its throne.
- The Cat Cemetery. At the back of the gardens, there’s a small cemetery with tiny headstones for every cat that has passed away since the museum opened. It’s surprisingly moving. You’ll see names like Willard Scott and Kim Novak etched in stone.
Actionable Tips for Your Visit
If you want to get the most out of your "cat tour," timing is everything.
- Go early. The museum opens at 9:00 AM. Key West heat is brutal by noon, and the cats will all go into deep hiding in the shade.
- Bring cash. The museum is famously cash-only for admission.
- Download the app. There is actually a "Hemingway Cats" app that helps you identify which celebrity cat you’re looking at based on their markings.
- Look up. Don’t just look at the ground. These cats love the gutters and the second-story porches.
The reality is that these cats are more than just a tourist gimmick. They are a living link to the 1930s. When you see a six-toed cat sitting on the same limestone steps where Hemingway walked, it’s one of the few places in Key West that feels exactly like it did eighty years ago.
Keep your eyes peeled for Grace Kelly—she’s known for being the most social of the bunch. Just don't expect her to pose for your selfie. She’s got a legacy to maintain.