You've seen them. Those stiff, fringed, or sometimes just plain fabric flaps sitting on the shoulders of military officers, airline pilots, and even high-fashion runway models. They look official. They look sharp. But honestly, most people just call them "shoulder things" without knowing they have a specific name and a surprisingly bloody history.
So, what is an epaulette?
At its most basic, an epaulette (sometimes spelled epaulet) is an ornamental shoulder piece or decoration used as an insignia of rank by armed forces and other organizations. It comes from the French word épaule, meaning shoulder. Simple enough, right? But if you think it's just a place to pin a few stars or stripes, you’re missing the bigger picture. These accessories have evolved from heavy iron armor designed to stop sword swings into symbols of authority that dictate exactly who is in charge of a room—or a cockpit.
The Brutal Origins of the Shoulder Strap
Back in the day, soldiers weren't just trying to look fancy. They were trying to stay alive. In the 17th century, military uniforms started incorporating ribbons to keep shoulder belts from slipping off. If your ammunition pouch slid down your arm in the middle of a reload, you were basically dead.
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These functional ribbons eventually merged with the concept of the "pteruges" from ancient Roman armor. Think of the leather strips hanging over a centurion's shoulder. By the time we get to the Napoleonic era, the epaulette had transformed into a status symbol. Heavy gold fringe wasn't just for show; it actually offered a bit of protection against downward saber cuts. A thick pad of brass or gold wire could be the difference between a bruised shoulder and a severed limb.
Napoleon Bonaparte was obsessed with them. He used different colors and fringe thicknesses to distinguish between his grenadiers, voltigeurs, and line infantry. If you had thin "grasshopper" fringe, you were a lower-tier officer. If you had thick, heavy gold "bullion" fringe, you were a colonel or a general. It was a visual shorthand that worked in the smoke and chaos of a 19th-century battlefield.
How to Read an Epaulette Without Looking Confused
Walk into any airport and look at the pilot. You’ll see those black shoulder boards with gold or silver stripes. That’s the modern, functional descendant of the 18th-century fringe.
- Four stripes generally mean you’re looking at the Captain. They are the final authority on that aircraft.
- Three stripes identify the Senior First Officer or Co-pilot.
- Two stripes are usually for a Second Officer, often found on long-haul flights.
- One stripe is rarely seen these days but typically denotes a trainee or a flight student.
In the Navy, things get even more complex. You’ve got different background colors behind the gold lace that tell you what the officer actually does. In the British Royal Navy, for instance, a red background indicates a medical officer, while purple (though rarer now) used to signify an engineer.
It's not just about stripes, though. The shape matters. A "shoulder board" is a stiff, removable piece that slides onto a loop on the shirt. A "shoulder mark" is often a soft sleeve that slides over the fabric. A "true" epaulette is usually the fringed, ceremonial version used for full dress uniforms. Most people use the terms interchangeably, but a military historian will definitely correct you if you call a soft rank slide an epaulette.
From the Battlefield to the Runway
Fashion has a weird obsession with the military. It always has. Designers like Burberry and Yves Saint Laurent took the rugged utility of the trench coat—complete with shoulder straps—and turned it into a luxury staple.
Why? Because epaulettes do something magical to the human silhouette. They broaden the shoulders. They make the wearer look more upright, more "squared away." It’s a psychological trick. When you see someone with structured shoulders, you instinctively perceive them as more confident or powerful.
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In the 1980s, this went into overdrive with power suits. While they didn't always have literal epaulettes, the heavy padding was a direct nod to that military silhouette. Today, you’ll see them on leather biker jackets to give them a "tough" edge or on safari shirts where they serve the original purpose: keeping a camera strap or a canteen from sliding off your shoulder.
The Modern Decline (And Where They Still Live)
You won't see epaulettes on a modern camouflage combat uniform. Why? Because they’re impractical in the age of plate carriers and backpacks. A heavy gold fringe is basically a "shoot me first" sign for a sniper, and it gets caught on everything.
Modern military rank has moved to the center of the chest or the collar in many "working" uniforms. However, the epaulette remains the king of the "Dress Blues." If you attend a military ball or a state funeral, the epaulettes come out. They represent the heritage of the unit. They connect a modern soldier to the centuries of tradition that came before them.
Beyond the military and aviation, you’ll find them in:
- The Merchant Navy: Similar to airline pilots, deck officers use them to maintain a clear chain of command on cargo ships.
- Police Forces: Many European and Commonwealth police agencies use shoulder boards for senior brass.
- Private Security: High-end bodyguards often wear uniforms with subtle shoulder straps to look more "official."
- Marching Bands: This is where the fringe truly lives on. The more flamboyant, the better.
Making Sense of the Material
If you’re ever handling a vintage or high-quality epaulette, look at the "bullion." Real high-end ones aren't made of plastic or cheap polyester. They use gold or silver-plated copper wire. It’s incredibly heavy. A pair of full-dress general's epaulettes can weigh over a pound.
The underside is usually lined with high-quality wool or silk to prevent the metal from scratching the uniform. There's usually a large brass button at the neck end and a lace or "passant" (a small strap) that holds the main body to the shoulder.
Practical Insights for the Enthusiast
If you are looking to buy a vintage coat with epaulettes or you're a costume designer trying to get it right, keep these things in mind.
First, check the "swing." High-quality fringe should move independently. If it’s a solid molded piece of plastic, it’s a cheap knock-off. Second, look at the attachment. Real epaulettes are never permanent. They are designed to be removed so the coat can be cleaned without ruining the metalwork.
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For those wearing them in a professional capacity, like new pilots, the "points" of the stripes or the "diamonds" usually point toward the neck, but this varies wildly by country and branch. Always check your specific organization's uniform manual. There is nothing that screams "rookie" louder than wearing your rank upside down or on the wrong shoulder.
Key Takeaways for Using or Identifying Epaulettes
- Broaden your frame: If you’re choosing a coat and want to look more authoritative, go for one with functional shoulder straps.
- Identify the rank: Count the stripes. On a plane, four is the boss. On a ship, look for the "executive curl" (a loop in the top stripe) for command officers.
- Historical context: Remember they started as armor. If you see a metal scale-style epaulette, that’s a direct throwback to the days of cavalry and swords.
- Care and feeding: Never put a garment with real bullion epaulettes in a washing machine. The metal will oxidize, and the fringe will turn into a tangled mess that no amount of brushing can fix.
The epaulette isn't just a leftover of a bygone era. It's a functional piece of design that transitioned into a psychological tool. It tells the world where you fit in the hierarchy before you even open your mouth. Whether it’s the gold-fringed splendor of a ceremonial guard or the simple black-and-gold slip-on of a commercial pilot, the epaulette remains the most recognizable symbol of "taking charge" in the history of clothing.
To keep your epaulettes or shoulder-decorated garments in top shape, always store them on wide, contoured hangers that support the shoulder structure. For those with metallic bullion, wrapping the shoulder pieces in acid-free tissue paper when not in use prevents the metal from tarnishing against the fabric of the coat. If the fringe becomes dusty, use a soft-bristled brush—like a clean makeup brush—to gently flick away debris without snagging the delicate wires.