Bow ties are cool. It’s the phrase that launched a thousand Tumblr posts and basically saved the formal neckwear industry from total extinction in 2010. But honestly, if you think the Eleventh Doctor costume is just a thrift store blazer and a red piece of silk, you’re missing the actual story written into the seams of Matt Smith’s wardrobe.
That first outfit wasn't even supposed to happen. Steven Moffat originally wanted something "piratical"—think big coats and swashbuckling vibes. Matt Smith, being the chaotic energy force he is, showed up to a fitting and started trying on things that made him look like a geography teacher who’d lost his mind. He found a tweed jacket. He found some braces. Then, he asked for a bow tie. Moffat apparently groaned, "Oh no," but Matt insisted they were cool. The rest is literal TV history.
What's fascinating is how that outfit didn't just stay the same. It aged with him. It got darker, heavier, and way more expensive as the Doctor realized that the universe isn't just a big playground—it’s a place where friends leave and never come back.
The Tweed Era: Why the "Professor" Look Worked
When the Eleventh Doctor crashed into Amelia Pond's garden, he was wearing the Tenth Doctor’s shredded remains. Once he finally got around to picking his own threads in The Eleventh Hour, he settled on a look that screamed "900-year-old man trapped in a 26-year-old’s body."
The core of the Series 5 look was the Harris Tweed jacket. Specifically, it was a Donegal or Harris tweed with a very particular brown/beige weave. But here’s the thing: those early jackets were actually vintage finds. Because they couldn't keep finding the same vintage jackets for stunts, the costume department eventually had to custom-make them. If you're a cosplayer looking for the "Red Outfit" vs. the "Blue Outfit," you’ve gotta look at the details.
The "Red" version featured a burgundy bow tie and matching suspenders (or "braces," if we're being British about it). The "Blue" version used a navy bow tie and blue braces. People often forget that the shirts were Paul Smith originals with a very specific "tab" collar that kept the bow tie perfectly centered. No floppy knots allowed.
The Greatcoat and the Shift to Series 6
By the time Series 6 rolled around, the look got a bit more "polished." The Harris tweed was swapped for a Shetland Tweed jacket from W. Bill in London. It was a bit leaner, a bit more "action hero."
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But the real MVP of this era was the Green Moleskin Greatcoat. Matt Smith actually requested a heavier coat because they were filming in the freezing Welsh winter, and he was tired of shivering in just a blazer. It’s a double-breasted military-style piece that makes him look much more like a traveler and less like a librarian. Honestly, it’s one of the most underrated parts of the Eleventh Doctor costume history. It only appeared in a handful of episodes like Let’s Kill Hitler and The Wedding of River Song, but it changed the silhouette of the character completely.
The Purple Frock Coat: A Doctor in Mourning
Everything changed after the Ponds left in The Angels Take Manhattan. The Doctor went into a "funk" in Victorian London, and when he finally emerged, he looked different. Gone was the jaunty tweed.
The Series 7b outfit is basically a different character. He started wearing a purple frock coat made of heavy wool or corduroy (the texture is famously difficult to replicate). This look is much more "Eighteenth-century gentleman" and much less "eccentric student."
- The Waistcoats: This is where the nerds (I say that lovingly) go wild. He had three main ones: the "Scales" waistcoat with a weird geometric pattern, the velvet one, and the "Anniversary" waistcoat worn in The Day of the Doctor.
- The Trousers: He moved away from the simple black skinny jeans into "G-Star Raw" trousers in a "commando" or "dark aged" wash. They had more seams and a more utilitarian feel.
- The Boots: He wore All Saints "Layer" boots. They were black, rugged, and had a distinctive wrap-around lace style.
The purple coat era is the "Academic Professor" final form. He looks older. His hair is shorter. He’s wearing a waistcoat with a gold pocket watch chain (a "fob" watch) that suggests he’s finally keeping track of time, rather than just running away from it.
Where to Actually Get These Pieces
If you're trying to build an Eleventh Doctor costume today, you've got two paths. You can go the "Charity Shop" route, which is how Matt Smith started, or the "Pro Tailor" route.
For the high-end stuff, Magnoli Clothiers or Baron Boutique are the gold standards. They've spent years analyzing the weave of the purple frock coat and the specific check of the tweed. Expect to pay a few hundred dollars for a jacket that actually fits and drapes correctly.
For the budget-conscious, you've got to be a bit of a detective.
- Search for "Donegal Tweed" on eBay. Don't just search "Doctor Who jacket"—you'll get hit with cheap polyester "costume" versions that look like shiny plastic.
- The Bow Tie: Don't buy a clip-on. Seriously. Part of the charm is the slightly irregular knot of a real self-tie bow tie. Brands like Mrs. Bow Tie have done officially licensed patterns that are fairly affordable.
- The Braces: Look for 1-inch wide elastic with silver clips and an "X-back." Burgundy and Navy are the essential colors.
The Secret Details Most People Miss
The devil is in the details, sort of. If you really want to nail the look, you have to remember the socks. The Doctor famously wears mismatched or brightly colored socks (often Paul Smith) that only peek out when he’s running or sitting down.
Also, the hair. It’s not just "floppy." In the early seasons, it’s a "quiff" that requires a surprising amount of product to stay up during an alien invasion. By the end, it's a tighter, more mature crop.
Another big one: the Sonic Screwdriver. The Eleventh Doctor’s model is the first one that really felt like a "tool" rather than a pen. It’s got that copper base and the green claws that flick out. If you're carrying the Series 5-6 version, you should be in tweed. If you're carrying the cane from Let's Kill Hitler, you're in the green coat.
Actionable Insights for Your Own Build
- Prioritize the Fit: Matt Smith is very lean. If your jacket is too baggy, you won't look like the Doctor; you'll look like you're wearing your dad’s work clothes. Get the waist taken in by a local tailor.
- Texture Over Color: A flat purple jacket looks like a Joker costume. You need something with a visible weave or "nap" to the fabric to catch the light like the screen-used frock coat.
- Roll the Hems: The Eleventh Doctor’s trousers are always slightly too short. Roll them up about an inch above your boots to show off those "cool" socks.
- The "Bells of St John" Variant: If you want a cheaper version of the purple look, skip the waistcoat. He doesn't wear one in his first appearance in that outfit, and it’s a lot more comfortable for a summer convention.
Whether you're going for the "Eleventh Hour" ragtag look or the "Time of the Doctor" regal purple, the key is the attitude. You've got to be the smartest person in the room and the most confused person in the room at the same time. And remember, the fez is optional, but the confidence isn't.