You’ve seen it happen a thousand times. The "zoomies" kick in. Your dog is tearing across the living room, banking off the sofa cushions like a dirt bike on a berm. It’s hilarious, right? You start clapping your hands, maybe let out a high-pitched whistle, or grab that squeaky toy and shake it like crazy. Suddenly, your Golden Retriever isn't just running; he's nipping at your sleeves, barking at the wall, and can't seem to find the "off" switch even when you’re done. This is exactly why trainers tell you: don't rile up the dog.
It feels like bonding. Honestly, we think we're giving them the best time of their lives by getting them "hyped." But there is a massive difference between healthy exercise and over-arousal. When a dog gets too worked up, their brain basically gets flooded with cortisol and adrenaline. These aren't just "happy chemicals." They are "fight or flight" chemicals.
The biology of the "Over-Threshold" dog
When we say don't rile up the dog, we aren't being killjoys. We're talking about physiology. According to veterinary behaviorists like Dr. Sophia Yin, once a dog crosses their "threshold," they lose the ability to process commands. Their prefrontal cortex—the part of the brain responsible for decision-making—shuts down. The amygdala takes over.
Think about the last time you were stuck in a high-stress situation. Maybe a near-miss car accident? Your heart is racing. Your palms are sweaty. If someone asked you to solve a math problem right then, you’d probably tell them to get lost. Dogs are the same. When you use high-pitched "baby talk" or engage in frantic tug-of-war, you are pushing them into a state where they can no longer hear you. They aren't being "bad" or "disobedient." They literally can't process "Sit" because their brain is screaming GO GO GO.
It can take hours, or even days, for those stress hormones to leave a dog's system. This is a phenomenon known as "trigger stacking." If you rile up your dog in the morning, they might still be on edge when the mailman comes by at noon. That extra shot of adrenaline makes them more likely to bark, lung, or snap at things they would normally ignore.
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Why "Roughhousing" backfires on owners
A lot of people think wrestling with their dog is a great way to burn off steam. It’s not. Most of the time, it's just teaching the dog that human hands are chew toys.
If you use your hands to push your dog’s face around or "box" with them, you are inviting them to use their mouth. For a puppy, this is how they learn bite inhibition—but if you’re the one initiating the craziness, they lose that boundary. Real talk: if you have kids in the house, this is a dangerous game. A dog doesn't always distinguish between "Dad's big tough hands" and "a toddler's small, fragile face."
The dopamine trap
Dogs get addicted to the rush. It’s a loop. They do something crazy, you react with high energy, they get a hit of dopamine, and they want more. Over time, you end up with a dog that doesn't know how to relax. They become "arousal junkies." These are the dogs that pace the house, can't settle during a movie, and constantly bring you toys with wild, dilated pupils. They haven't learned the "off" switch because we never gave them one.
Better ways to play without the chaos
So, what are you supposed to do? Just stare at each other? Of course not. Dogs need play. But it should be structured.
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Low-arousal games are the secret sauce. Instead of throwing a ball as fast as you can, try "find it." Hide treats around the room and let them use their nose. Scent work is incredibly draining for a dog’s brain but keeps their heart rate steady. It’s the difference between running a sprint and doing a crossword puzzle. Both are tiring, but only one leaves you panting and frantic.
- Try long-form chewing. A frozen Kong or a lick mat lowers the heart rate.
- Work on "Impulse Control." Make them stay while you throw the toy, then release them.
- Keep your voice deep and calm. High pitches signal "emergency" or "prey" to a dog.
The myth of "Tiring them out"
We’ve all heard it: "A tired dog is a good dog." This is only half-true. A dog that is physically exhausted but mentally wired is a recipe for disaster. If you take a high-drive dog like a Border Collie or a Malinois and just run them for miles every day, you aren't "tiring them out." You’re just building a more athletic athlete. You're creating a dog with higher stamina that requires even more stimulation to reach that same level of "tired."
The goal shouldn't be physical exhaustion. It should be emotional regulation. You want a dog that can go from a 10 to a 2 in thirty seconds. If you constantly rile them up, you are training them to live at a 9.
What experts say about arousal levels
Professional trainers often use a scale of 1 to 10 to describe a dog’s state of mind. 1 is sleeping. 10 is a full-blown "red zone" freakout. Most people think play should be an 8 or 9. In reality, healthy play should hover around a 5 or 6.
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If you see your dog's ears go back, their movements become stiff, or they start "sharking" (snapping at the air), you’ve gone too far. Stop the play immediately. Walk away. Don't yell—yelling is just more "loud noise" that adds to the energy. Just be boring. Become a tree. Once the dog sits or lies down, then you can calmly resume.
Real-world consequences of high-energy play
Think about the vet’s office or a crowded park. If your dog’s only mode of interaction is "maximum intensity," they will fail in these environments. A dog that is used to being riled up at home will try to rile up every dog they see on a leash. This is how fights start. Another dog might see that high-energy approach as a threat, not an invitation to play.
Actionable steps for a calmer household
If you’ve realized you’ve been "that person" who riles up the dog too much, don't worry. You can fix it. It starts with your own energy.
- Implement the "Three-Second Rule." During play, stop every few minutes. Wait three seconds. If the dog can sit or give you eye contact, the play continues. If they keep jumping or barking, the toy goes away.
- Change your greeting. When you come home, don't make it a party. Ignore the dog for the first five minutes until they are calm. No high-pitched "Hi Buddy!" until their paws are on the floor and their tail is wagging at a normal pace.
- Use "Place" training. Teach your dog to go to a specific mat or bed and stay there. This gives them a physical "boundary" where they know they are expected to be calm.
- Analyze your own body language. Are you moving your arms fast? Are you leaning over the dog? These are "challenging" postures in the canine world. Stand up straight, move slowly, and speak in a soothing tone.
A calm dog is a happy dog. They don't want to live in a state of constant frantic energy any more than you want to live in a state of constant panic. By choosing not to rile up the dog, you’re actually giving them the gift of a peaceful mind. Focus on mental stimulation over physical frenzy. Start incorporating "scent walks" where the dog leads and sniffs everything they want. This lowers cortisol levels naturally and builds a deeper, more respectful bond than a game of "crazy hands" ever could.