You’re sitting there, right hand on the lever, left hand reaching for a piece of brass. Every. Single. Time. It’s a rhythm you know by heart, but let’s be real: after the first three hundred rounds, your shoulder starts to feel it and your brain starts to wander.
That is usually the exact moment most people start looking at the Dillon Precision case feeder.
It isn’t just a luxury for the lazy. Honestly, it’s a fundamental shift in how you interact with your press. When you stop being the person who manually places every piece of brass into the shellplate, you suddenly have the mental bandwidth to focus on things that actually matter—like powder levels and primer seating depth.
But is it actually worth the four hundred bucks? Or is it just another "blue" accessory that looks cool on your bench but adds an hour of tinkering to every session? Let’s get into the weeds of what this machine actually does and where it might drive you crazy.
The Reality of the Dillon Precision Case Feeder
Basically, the thing is a motorized bucket. You dump a quart of brass into the top, and a rotating plate inside agitates the cases until they find a slot. Because of how the plates are designed, they can tell the difference between the heavy base of the brass and the open mouth.
It drops the brass down a tube, base-first, every single time.
If you’ve ever tried to load 1,000 rounds of 9mm in a single afternoon without one, you know the "left-hand fatigue." It’s real. By automating that one movement, you’re basically turning your RL550 or XL750 into a semi-automated factory. On a machine like the XL750, which was designed from the ground up to use this feeder, the speed increase is huge. You aren’t just moving 20% faster; you’re moving with about 50% less physical effort.
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High Speed vs. Low Speed
The newer models come with a variable speed motor. Older versions just had a high/low switch. The new ones can ramp up to 8 RPM, which is literally twice as fast as the legacy motors.
Why does that matter?
If you're loading rifle cases, you don't need speed. You need torque. But if you’re churning through 9mm on a high-output session, you want that plate spinning fast enough to keep the feed tube topped off. Nothing kills a reloading flow like pulling the handle and realizing the tube is empty because the motor couldn't keep up with your arm.
The 550 Problem: Is It a Retrofit?
Here is the thing no one likes to admit: the Dillon Precision case feeder on an RL550 is a bit of a "Frankenstein" setup.
The 550 was originally designed as a manual-index press. Adding an automatic case feeder to it requires a cam-actuated slide that pushes the brass into the shellplate. While it works, it’s finicky. You’ll spend a Saturday afternoon adjusting the camming pin just to get it to stop tilting the cases as they enter Station 1.
- The Pro: Your right hand never leaves the roller handle.
- The Con: If your bench isn't rock-solid, the vibration can cause cases to wobble out of alignment.
- The Truth: Most guys who put a feeder on a 550 eventually just buy a 750 because they realize they want the full automation.
Why Caliber Conversions Matter
You can't just buy one plate and call it a day. That’s where they get you. You need specific plates for different brass sizes.
- Small Pistol: This handles your 9mm, .380, and .38 Super.
- Large Pistol: Essential for .45 ACP, .40 S&W, and 10mm.
- Small/Large Rifle: These are deeper and have different "flipping" geometry to handle the height of rifle brass.
A common mistake? Trying to run .38 Special on a small pistol plate without a spacer. It’ll jam every five minutes. Dillon provides a spacer washer for these taller pistol cases, and if you don't use it, the cases will "bridge" at the top of the bowl and stall the motor.
The "Jam-O-Matic" Myths and How to Fix Them
If your feeder is jamming, it’s usually one of three things.
First, look at the "dislodge wedge." It's that little plastic triangle inside the bowl. If it’s not adjusted low enough, a case mouth will get snagged under it, and you’ll hear the motor’s clutch start clicking. Lower it until it's just barely clearing the plate.
Second, check your brass cleanliness. If you use a lot of case lube (especially the sticky stuff like Dillion’s own lanolin spray), it can build up on the "case glide plate" near the shellplate. Once that gets gummy, the brass won't slide smoothly into the pocket. A quick wipe with some isopropyl alcohol usually fixes it.
Lastly, stop overfilling the bowl. I know it’s tempting to dump a whole gallon of 223 in there, but the motor isn't meant to move that much weight. If you fill it past the halfway mark, the brass doesn't have enough room to tumble and "orient" itself. It just packs down into a solid mass.
What Most People Get Wrong About Noise
Let’s be honest: these things are loud. It’s a plastic bucket full of rattling brass being vibrated by an electric motor.
If you’re reloading in a quiet spare bedroom, your spouse is going to hate you.
Some guys try to line the inside of the bowl with foam or rubber, but honestly, that usually just messes up the case orientation. The best "hack" is actually just to make sure the mounting post is tight. If the post vibrates, the noise doubles.
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Is it Actually Faster?
Technically, yes. In practice, it depends.
If you are a "hobbyist" who loads 50 rounds of .30-06 once a month, don't buy this. It’ll take you longer to set up and tune the feeder than it would to just hand-feed the brass.
However, if you’re a competitive shooter shooting 1,000 rounds of 9mm a month, the Dillon Precision case feeder isn't just "faster"—it’s a health requirement for your elbow. It changes the experience from a chore to a streamlined process. You can easily hit 500-600 rounds per hour on an XL750 with a feeder without even breaking a sweat.
The Next Move for Your Bench
If you're tired of the "reach and place" dance, your next step isn't just buying the feeder—it's checking your bench. A case feeder adds a lot of top-heavy weight to your press. If your bench has any "flex" or "wobble," that feeder is going to act like a tuning fork, magnifying every vibration and causing the brass to tip over before it hits the shellplate.
Before you drop the money:
- Bolt your bench to the wall studs. This is non-negotiable for reliable feeding.
- Order the specific plate for your primary caliber. Don't try to "make do" with a Large Pistol plate for 9mm; it will feed two at a time and drive you insane.
- Check your ceiling height. These feeders sit high. If you’re in a basement with low rafters, measure twice.
Once it's dialed in, you won't look back. You'll just wonder why you spent three years reaching for brass like a caveman.