Different Types of Guitars Explained (Simply)

Different Types of Guitars Explained (Simply)

You’re standing in a music shop. It smells like lemon oil and sawdust. Walls are covered in wood and wire, and honestly, it’s overwhelming. You see a slab of neon green plastic next to a hollowed-out box that looks like it belongs in a 1930s dust bowl documentary. They’re both guitars. But they couldn't be more different. Choosing between different types of guitars isn't just about the "vibe." It’s about physics. It’s about how much your fingers are going to hurt for the first three weeks.

People think a guitar is just a guitar. That’s wrong. It’s like saying a sedan and a tractor are the same because they both have four wheels. If you want to play Taylor Swift, you don’t buy a Jackson Soloist with a Floyd Rose tremolo. You just don't.

The Steel-String Acoustic: The Workhorse

Most people start here. The acoustic guitar is the "pure" experience. No wires. No batteries. Just you, some spruce or mahogany, and a whole lot of resonance. The dreadnought is the king of this category. C.F. Martin & Company basically invented the shape in the early 20th century. It’s big. It’s loud. It’s got a deep body that kicks you in the chest when you strum a G major chord.

But here’s the thing: dreadnoughts are bulky. If you have a smaller frame, you’ll feel like you’re hugging a refrigerator. That’s why "Parlor" guitars or "Grand Auditorium" shapes exist. They’re narrower at the waist. Brands like Taylor Guitars made the Grand Auditorium famous because it balances the bass and treble better than the booming dreadnought. It's more "polite" for fingerpicking.

Steel strings are under immense tension. About 160 pounds of pressure is pulling on that bridge. Your fingertips will develop calluses. There’s no way around it. If you aren't ready for a little bit of pain, you might want to look at the next option.

The Nylon String (Classical) Alternative

You’ll see these and think they’re just "small acoustics." Nope. Classical guitars use nylon strings. They’re soft. They feel like thick fishing line. The neck is also much wider. Why? Because classical and flamenco music involves complex finger patterns where you need extra space so your fingers don't bump into other strings.

Don't buy one just because the strings are softer, though. The sound is mellow. It’s "dark." It doesn't "shimmer" like a steel-string does. If you want to play folk or country, a nylon string will sound muddy and out of place. It’s a specific tool for a specific job.

Electric Guitars and the Solid Body Revolution

In the 1930s, guitarists had a problem. They were playing in big bands, and the trumpets were drowning them out. They tried sticking microphones inside acoustics, but it just created a howling mess of feedback. Then came the solid body.

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Leo Fender and Les Paul (the man, not just the guitar) realized that if the body doesn't vibrate, you can turn the volume up to eleven.

The Fender Stratocaster vs. The Gibson Les Paul

This is the Pepsi vs. Coke of the music world.

The Fender Stratocaster has three single-coil pickups. It sounds "glassy" and "bright." Think Jimi Hendrix or John Mayer. It has a contoured body that fits against your ribs. It’s ergonomic. It feels like a sports car.

The Gibson Les Paul is a different beast. It uses "Humbuckers." These are dual-coil pickups designed by Seth Lover in the 50s to "buck the hum" or interference. They’re thick. They’re heavy. They sound creamy and powerful. If you want that classic rock crunch—think Jimmy Page or Slash—this is it. But be warned: a Les Paul can weigh 10 pounds. Your shoulder will feel it after an hour.

Semi-Hollow and Hollow Body Electrics

Ever see those guitars with the "f-holes" like a violin? Those are semi-hollow or hollow body electrics. The Gibson ES-335 is the gold standard here. It has a solid block of wood running down the middle but empty "wings" on the sides.

This gives you a bit of that acoustic resonance but with the power of electric pickups. Jazz players love full hollow bodies (like the Gibson L-5) because they sound "woody" and "warm." Blues players like the semi-hollow because it can handle a bit of overdrive without squealing like a pig. B.B. King’s "Lucille" is the most famous example of this. It’s a refined, sophisticated sound. Sorta like a suit-and-tie version of a rock guitar.

The Weird Stuff: 7-Strings, Baritones, and Resonators

Sometimes six strings aren't enough. Or they're the wrong strings.

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  • 7-String Guitars: Popularized by Steve Vai and later adopted by "djent" and metal bands like Korn. That extra low B string adds a gutteral, heavy growl.
  • Baritone Guitars: These have a longer scale length (the distance from the nut to the bridge). They're tuned lower, usually B to B. They sound deep and cinematic. Think of the "twang" in old spaghetti western soundtracks.
  • Resonator Guitars: These have metal cones inside. They were built for volume before electricity existed. They sound "metallic" and "nasal." Perfect for delta blues or bluegrass. If you've seen a picture of a guy playing a shiny silver guitar with a slide on his finger, that’s a resonator.

Scale Length: The Spec Nobody Mentions

If you’re looking at different types of guitars, you have to check the scale length. Fender typically uses 25.5 inches. Gibson uses 24.75 inches.

It sounds like a tiny difference. It’s not.

A shorter scale length means the strings are looser. They’re easier to bend. A longer scale length has more tension, which makes the notes sound "snappier" and more defined. This is why a Stratocaster feels "stiff" compared to a Les Paul. If you have small hands, that 24.75-inch Gibson scale might be your best friend. Honestly, it makes a world of difference in playability that most beginners completely overlook.

Tonewoods: Does the Wood Actually Matter?

This is the most debated topic in guitar history. Seriously, go onto a forum and ask if Rosewood sounds better than Maple. You’ll start a war.

On an acoustic, the wood is everything. The "Top" is usually Spruce (bright and punchy) or Cedar (warm and soft). The "Back and Sides" act like an equalizer. Mahogany is "mid-range" heavy. Rosewood has deep lows and sparkling highs.

On an electric? It’s complicated. Many argue that the pickups and the amp do 99% of the work. Paul Reed Smith (PRS) swears by the "resonance of the platform." Others say if you’re playing through a distortion pedal, you could make a guitar out of a 2x4 and it would sound the same. They’re both kinda right. The wood affects how the string vibrates, which affects the sustain, but it won't magically make you sound like a pro.

Actionable Steps for Choosing Your First (or Next) Guitar

Don't just buy what looks cool. Well, do, but check these things first.

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1. Define your "Sonic Goal"
If you love the sound of acoustic folk, do not buy an electric thinking you'll "get to that later." You won't. The physical mechanics of playing them are different enough that you should start with the sound you actually enjoy listening to.

2. The "Lap Test"
Sit down with the guitar without a strap. Does it slide off your leg? Does the neck dive toward the floor? A "neck-heavy" guitar (looking at you, Gibson SG) is a nightmare to play for long periods because your left hand is constantly fighting to keep the neck up instead of just playing notes.

3. Check the "Action"
This is the height of the strings from the fretboard. If the strings are a mile high, the guitar is poorly set up. It will be hard to press down, and you’ll hate playing. Any reputable shop should offer a basic "setup" to lower the action for you.

4. Consider the Nut Width
People with thick fingers often struggle on narrow nut widths (standard on many Fenders). If your fingers feel crowded, look for a guitar with a 1.75-inch nut width rather than the standard 1.68-inch. It gives you breathing room.

5. Used vs. New
Guitars aren't like cars. They don't lose half their value the moment you take them home—unless you buy them new. The used market is where the value is. A used Mexican-made Fender Player Series is often a better "pro" instrument than a brand-new, entry-level Squier for the same price.

The "best" guitar is the one that makes you want to pick it up. If it's sitting in the stand looking at you, and you feel a physical urge to play a riff, you bought the right one. Everything else is just gear talk.