You’ve probably seen the photos. Those overhead shots of a sea of colorful rickshaws jammed so tightly together you can't see the asphalt. Or the headlines about "the most unlivable city."
Honestly? Most people look at Dhaka city in Bangladesh and see a crisis. They see the 25 million people packed into a space that feels like it was meant for five. But if you actually spend a week navigating its chaotic arteries in early 2026, you realize that the old "basket case" narrative is dying a slow, noisy death.
Dhaka is changing. Fast.
The Sky is Literally Changing
For decades, the only way to get around was to settle into a rickshaw and accept that you were now part of the scenery for the next three hours. It was a test of patience.
Not anymore.
If you stand near Farmgate today, you’ll see the Dhaka Metro Rail (MRT Line 6) gliding overhead like a silver needle stitching the city together. It’s weirdly quiet. It feels like a glitch in the matrix compared to the honking madness below. As of January 2026, the system isn't just a novelty; it’s the city’s pulse.
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We’re also seeing the massive MRT Line 1 project—Bangladesh’s first-ever underground metro—moving toward its December 2026 target. Sure, there are delays. There are always delays. Some officials say it might push into 2027 or 2028 because of land acquisition hiccups in Pitalganj. But the point is, the city is finally moving vertically.
The Dhaka Elevated Expressway is another game-changer. You can now zip from the airport to the heart of the city in minutes, bypassing the legendary bottleneck at Banani. It’s expensive for locals, and motorcycles are still banned on it, but for a traveler? It’s a miracle.
Purbachal: The City That Isn’t Quite There Yet
Everyone talks about Purbachal New Town. It’s marketed as the "Smart City" of the future, a 6,000-acre dream on the eastern edge of the capital.
If you drive out there right now, you’ll see the 300-foot Expressway, which is arguably the most beautiful road in the country. It’s lined with parks and artificial canals. But here’s the reality: it’s still a bit of a ghost town in parts.
The Bangabandhu Tri-Tower project, featuring the 111-story Legacy Tower, is supposed to be the crown jewel. Construction is ongoing, but don't expect a finished skyline just yet. It’s a construction site of epic proportions.
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The Elephant in the Room: Breathing
Let’s be real. Dhaka city in Bangladesh has a serious air problem.
I checked the AQI (Air Quality Index) this morning, Sunday, January 18, 2026. Dhaka was ranked the third worst globally with a score of 275. In areas like Dhanmondi and South Pallabi, it actually hit "hazardous" levels over 300.
If you’re visiting, you need a high-quality mask. Not a flimsy surgical one. An N95.
The pollution usually peaks in winter (now) and clears up during the monsoon. It’s the price the city pays for its relentless construction and the brick kilns on the outskirts. If you have asthma, you’ve got to plan your movements carefully.
Why You Should Still Go
So, why bother? Why fly into a city that’s 33% behind on its expressway targets and has "hazardous" air?
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Because of the energy.
Dhaka is a city that never sleeps, but not in the shiny New York way. It’s a city of 15 million stories happening at once. You’ve got the old-world charm of Sankhari Bazar in Old Dhaka, where the streets are so narrow you can touch both walls at once. Then you’ve got the high-end glitz of Gulshan-2, where people pay $6 for a latte that tastes like it’s from London.
The food is another level. Forget "Indian food." Dhaka’s Kacchi Biryani—specifically from places like Star Kabab or Sultan’s Dine—is a religious experience. The meat is slow-cooked with basmati rice and potatoes until it literally falls apart.
Real Expert Tips for 2026
- Download the Apps: Don't even try to haggle with a CNG (auto-rickshaw) driver on the street unless you speak fluent Bangla and know the exact rates. Use Uber or Pathao. It’s safer, the price is fixed, and you won't get lost.
- The Right Hand Rule: Never, ever hand over money or eat with your left hand. It’s a massive cultural "no-no."
- Friday is Your Friend: Friday is the weekly holiday. The traffic vanishes. If you want to see the sights like Lalbagh Fort or the National Parliament House (designed by Louis Kahn), do it on a Friday morning.
- Water is the Enemy: Only drink bottled water with a sealed cap. Even the ice in high-end restaurants can be sketchy sometimes.
- Dress the Part: It’s a conservative place. Men should avoid short shorts. Women should aim for loose clothing that covers shoulders and knees. You’ll get way less unwanted attention if you blend in.
Is Dhaka the Future?
It’s easy to look at the "Revised Annual Development Programme" and see the 15% budget cuts as a sign of failure. But the Planning Adviser, Dr. Wahiduddin Mahmud, recently noted that they’re focusing on quality over quantity now. They’re trying to stop the corruption that has dogged these projects for years.
Dhaka city in Bangladesh is a mess, yes. But it's a productive, hopeful, and deeply human mess. It’s a city that is learning how to breathe while running a marathon.
If you want to understand where the 21st century is actually happening—away from the sanitized streets of Europe—you have to see Dhaka.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Check the daily AQI on the IQAir app before planning outdoor walking tours.
- Book a "Heritage Walk" in Old Dhaka to see the Armenian Church and Ahsan Manzil before the metro construction changes the landscape forever.
- Try the street food at Nazira Bazar after 10 PM for the most authentic experience.