You’re standing in the middle of a job site, the sun is hammering down, and you’ve got a stack of 2x10s that isn't going to cut itself. You reach for a tool. For a lot of us, that tool is the DeWALT circular saw 20V XR. It’s not the newest thing on the shelf. It’s definitely not the flashiest. But there is a reason you see that signature yellow casing poking out of almost every truck bed from Maine to California.
Honestly, the "XR" badge stands for Extreme Runtime, but most guys just know it as the version that doesn't quit when the wood gets thick. It's a brushless beast. If you've ever used the old brushed motors, you know that smell of ozone and disappointment when the blade binds. This saw doesn't do that. It just pushes.
What the DeWALT Circular Saw 20V XR Actually Does to a Stringer
Let's talk about the DCS570. That is the specific model number most people are actually referring to when they talk about the DeWALT circular saw 20V XR lineup. It’s a 7-1/4 inch blade. That’s a big deal. For a long time, cordless saws were these dinky 6-1/2 inch toys that couldn't even clear a 2x4 at a 45-degree angle. This one? It handles it.
I’ve seen people try to argue that you need the FlexVolt 60V version for real framing. They’re kinda right, but also mostly wrong. If you are ripping LVLs all day, yeah, get the 60V. But for 90% of residential construction, the 20V XR is the sweet spot. It weighs about 7.5 pounds without the battery. Your shoulder will thank you after eight hours of cutting rafters.
The Brushless Factor
Brushless motors aren't just marketing fluff. They actually adjust. When the saw senses it's hitting a knot in a piece of pressure-treated lumber, the electronics kick in to maintain RPM. It’s smart. The DeWALT circular saw 20V XR uses this efficiency to squeeze every last drop of juice out of those lithium-ion cells.
If you pair this saw with a 5.0Ah battery, you’re looking at roughly 300 to 350 cross-cuts in 2x4 pine. That’s a lot. Most people don’t even realize how much the battery choice matters here. Put a slim 2.0Ah pack on this, and you’ll be walking back to the charger every twenty minutes. It’s embarrassing. Don't do it. Use the big packs.
Ergonomics and the "Feel" of the Cut
The handle is rubberized. It’s grippy even when your hands are sweaty or covered in sawdust. But the real win is the electronic brake.
When you let go of the trigger, the blade stops almost instantly.
Standard saws? They coast. They spin for five, maybe ten seconds. That’s how accidents happen. You set the saw down while it’s still spinning, it catches a cord or a pant leg, and suddenly you’re in the ER. The DeWALT circular saw 20V XR stops that. It's a safety feature that also makes you faster because you can move to the next cut immediately without waiting for the blade to go silent.
Depth and Bevel Adjustments
DeWALT went with a stamped aluminum base for this model. Some guys prefer cast magnesium because it’s "tougher," but aluminum is lighter and less likely to crack if you drop it off a sawhorse. The levers for depth and bevel are large. You can actually operate them while wearing heavy winter gloves.
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The bevel goes up to 57 degrees. Most saws stop at 45. That extra 12 degrees is a lifesaver when you’re doing weird roof pitches or decorative trim work that requires a compound angle.
The Dust Port Problem
Look, no tool is perfect. The dust blower on the DeWALT circular saw 20V XR is... okay. It clears the line of sight well enough, but if you’re working indoors, you’re still going to be breathing a lot of cedar dust. It has a dust port, but it's a weird size. You usually need an adapter to hook it up to a standard shop vac.
It's annoying.
But once you get the adapter, it’s a clean machine. Just realize that out of the box, it’s going to make a mess. That’s the reality of a high-torque circular saw.
Power Detect vs. Standard XR
There is a version of this saw called the "Power Detect" model (DCS574). It's still a DeWALT circular saw 20V XR, but it has special sensors that recognize when you’ve plugged in a high-capacity 8.0Ah or 10.0Ah battery. It actually increases the wattage.
If you already own 20V batteries, stick with the standard XR. If you’re starting from scratch, the Power Detect version gives you a little more "oomph" for about twenty bucks more. Is it worth it? Probably. It bridges the gap between the 20V and 60V platforms without forcing you to buy all new chargers.
Real World Durability: The Drop Test
I know a guy, a framer named Mike, who dropped his XR saw off a second-story deck. It hit the dirt hard. The shoe (the bottom plate) got a tiny bit tweaked, but he bent it back with a pair of pliers and kept working. That was three years ago. The saw is still in his kit today.
That’s the reputation.
You aren't just buying a motor and a blade. You're buying into an ecosystem where the parts are replaceable. You can buy a new shoe, a new guard, or new brushes (well, not for the brushless, obviously) for almost any DeWALT tool.
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Why Not Go Corded?
Some people still swear by their old worm-drive Skilsaws. I get it. Those things have enough torque to flip a truck. But dragging a 100-foot extension cord through the mud is a nightmare. The DeWALT circular saw 20V XR eliminates that friction.
You get the power of a corded saw—or at least 95% of it—without the trip hazard.
The weight distribution is also better. Since the battery is at the back, it acts as a counterweight to the motor. It feels balanced in your hand. When you're making a long rip cut down a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood, that balance keeps your line straight.
Blade Choice Matters More Than You Think
People buy a $200 saw and then put a $5 bargain bin blade on it. Stop.
The DeWALT circular saw 20V XR performs best with a thin-kerf blade. Because the blade is thinner, the motor has to remove less material. That means less friction, less heat, and longer battery life. DeWALT’s own "Precision" blades are decent, but if you really want this saw to scream, throw a Diablo 24-tooth framing blade on there. It’ll cut through wet pressure-treated lumber like it’s warm butter.
Common Misconceptions About the 20V Platform
A lot of people think 20V is "weaker" than 18V systems from other countries. Fun fact: they are the same. 20V Max is the "peak" voltage right off the charger, while 18V is the nominal operating voltage. It's just marketing. Don't let the numbers fool you into thinking you're getting some massive power boost over a Makita or Milwaukee 18V saw.
What you are getting is the DeWALT handle geometry. It’s objectively some of the best in the industry. It fits the human hand better than the blocky grips some competitors use.
The Left-Blade vs. Right-Blade Debate
The standard DeWALT circular saw 20V XR (DCS570) is a right-blade saw. This means the motor is on the left, and the blade is on the right. If you’re right-handed, you have to lean over the saw to see your cut line.
Some people hate this.
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If you want a "blade-left" saw, you have to look for the DCS565. It's also a 20V XR, but it’s a 6-1/2 inch model. It’s smaller, lighter, and easier to see your line if you're right-handed. It’s all about trade-offs. Power and capacity vs. visibility and weight.
Comparison: XR vs. Atomic
You might see the "Atomic" line at the hardware store. It looks similar. It’s also 20V. But it’s smaller.
The Atomic is for DIYers who need to cut a shelf once a month. The DeWALT circular saw 20V XR is for people who earn a paycheck with their tools. The XR has better cooling, a more robust guard, and a motor that can handle sustained high-load work. If you try to frame a whole house with an Atomic saw, you’re going to let the smoke out of the motor eventually.
Actionable Steps for Getting the Most Out of Your Saw
If you just bought or are about to buy a DeWALT circular saw 20V XR, do these three things to make sure it lasts a decade:
1. Don't use small batteries. Use 5.0Ah or higher. The saw draws a lot of current. Small batteries (1.5Ah or 2.0Ah) will overheat and eventually fail because they can't provide the "amps" the saw is demanding during a heavy cut.
2. Watch the shoe. Every few months, check to see if the base plate is still square to the blade. Bumping it in the truck can knock it off by a degree or two. A quick adjustment with a square will keep your joints tight.
3. Blow it out. Use an air compressor to blow the sawdust out of the motor vents. Sawdust acts like insulation. It traps heat. Heat is the number one killer of brushless motors. Five seconds of maintenance adds years to the tool's life.
4. Pick your blade based on the job. Don't use a 60-tooth finishing blade to cut 2x4s. It’ll generate too much heat. Use a 24-tooth for framing and save the high-tooth-count blades for when you're actually cutting plywood or trim.
The DeWALT circular saw 20V XR remains a staple for a reason. It isn't trying to be a computer. It isn't trying to be a "smart" tool with Bluetooth tracking (though some models have it, nobody uses it). It’s just a rugged, reliable way to turn big pieces of wood into small pieces of wood.
Invest in the PowerStack batteries if you really want to see what this thing can do. They use pouch cells instead of cylindrical ones, providing much higher current delivery and making the saw feel like it’s plugged into a wall. It’s the single best upgrade you can make for this specific tool.