You’re standing in a crawlspace, shoulder-deep in muddy insulation, trying to notch a 4x4 post that’s somehow turned into ironwood over the last forty years. Your old corded saw is sitting in the truck because you didn't feel like dragging 100 feet of yellow extension cord through a literal swamp. This is exactly where the DeWALT battery saw saw—or as the pros actually call it, the "Sawzall" style reciprocating saw—earns its keep. It’s not just a tool. It’s a demolition powerhouse that fits in a bag.
People get confused by the name. Technically, it’s a reciprocating saw, but everyone calls it a "saw saw" or "saws-all." DeWALT has basically cornered the market on these by leaning into their 20V MAX and 60V MAX FlexVolt platforms.
If you’ve ever used a cheap knock-off, you know the vibration feels like holding a pissed-off rattlesnake. DeWALT spent years trying to fix that. Their counterbalance mechanisms aren't perfect, but they’re better than most. Honestly, when you’re cutting through cast iron pipe or demolition-grade lumber, you just want the thing to not quit. And it doesn't.
The Real Difference Between 20V and 60V FlexVolt
There is a massive misconception that "more volts always equals better." That’s mostly true, but it’s more about the application. The standard 20V MAX XR reciprocating saw is the workhorse for most electricians and plumbers. It’s lighter. It fits between studs. You can hold it overhead for ten minutes without your deltoids screaming for mercy.
But then there’s the 60V MAX FlexVolt.
This thing is a monster. It’s designed for heavy demolition. We’re talking about cutting through thick metal, heavy timber, and things that usually require a gas saw or a corded beast. The FlexVolt technology is pretty clever because the battery can change voltage depending on what tool you plug it into. If you put that 60V battery on a 20V drill, it just provides massive runtime. Put it on the FlexVolt DeWALT battery saw saw, and it unleashes the full 60V of power. It’s basically like having a corded tool without the trip hazard.
According to real-world testing by groups like Project Farm, the DeWALT 60V often outperforms even Milwaukee’s legendary Fuel line in raw cutting speed, though it’s a tight race. The stroke length matters here. Most DeWALT models offer a 1-1/8 inch stroke. That’s the distance the blade moves back and forth. Longer strokes mean faster cuts because more teeth are hitting the material with every cycle.
Why Your Blades Keep Snapping
It isn't always the tool's fault. People buy a high-end DeWALT battery saw saw and then put the cheapest, thinnest blades they can find on it. That’s like putting budget tires on a Porsche.
Heat is the enemy. When you’re ripping through a nail-embedded 2x4, the friction builds up instantly. If you aren't using a bi-metal or carbide-tipped blade, the teeth will melt off before you finish the first cut. Carbide is the gold standard now. Companies like Diablo and DeWALT’s own Elite Series make blades that can hit fifty nails and keep going.
Short strokes.
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If you find the saw jumping around, you’re likely not pressing the "shoe"—that flat metal plate at the front—firmly against the material. The shoe is there to provide leverage. If there’s a gap, the saw will vibrate uncontrollably, your arm will get tired, and the blade will eventually snap from the stress.
What Most People Get Wrong About the DeWALT Battery Saw Saw
One of the biggest gripes you’ll hear on job sites is that "batteries don't last." That was true in 2012. It’s not true in 2026. With the advent of Tabless cell technology and higher-density lithium-ion packs, a 6Ah or 9Ah battery can last through a significant portion of a demo job.
However, you have to watch out for heat.
If you’re pushing the saw too hard, the thermal protection circuit will kick in. The saw just stops. Most people think the tool is broken. In reality, the battery is just trying to save itself from melting. Give it five minutes. It’ll be fine.
The Compact vs. Full-Size Debate
DeWALT makes a "Compact" version (often the DCS367) and the "One-Handed" version (DCS369).
The compact model has the motor mounted at an angle. This makes the whole tool shorter. It’s brilliant for working under sinks or inside cabinetry. You lose a little bit of the "swing" power you get from the long-body saws, but the maneuverability is worth it.
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The one-handed "Atomic" saw is a different beast entirely. It’s light. It’s small. It’s perfect for PVC or thin metal conduit. But don't try to demo a deck with it. You'll be there all day, and you'll probably burn the motor out. Use the right tool for the job.
Maintenance Tips Most People Ignore
These saws are meant to be dirty, but they aren't indestructible. The blade clamp is the most common failure point. Dust, grit, and metal shavings get inside the locking mechanism and jam it up.
- Use a can of compressed air to blow out the clamp area after every big job.
- A tiny drop of dry lubricant (not WD-40, which attracts dust) keeps the spring-loaded lever working smoothly.
- Check the brushes if you’re using an older, non-brushless model. If you see excessive sparking through the vents, it’s time for a change.
Modern Brushless motors don't have this issue, which is why the XR and 60V lines are so much more reliable. They run cooler and more efficiently. Basically, the motor "talks" to the battery to optimize power delivery. It’s smart tech in a very blunt instrument.
Comparing the DeWALT Battery Saw Saw to the Competition
Look, Milwaukee fans will swear by the Sawzall. Makita fans love their low vibration (AVT technology). But DeWALT wins on the "system." If you already have the yellow and black drill, driver, and circular saw, sticking with the DeWALT battery saw saw is a no-brainer.
The ergonomics are generally rated higher by tradespeople with larger hands. The grip is substantial. The trigger modulation—how much the speed changes based on how hard you pull—is incredibly precise. This matters when you’re starting a cut in metal and need to go slow so the blade doesn't skip across the surface.
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Actionable Steps for Your Next Project
If you’re looking to pick one up or get more out of the one you have, here is the playbook.
- Match the battery to the task. Don't use a 2Ah slim battery for demo work. It’ll overheat in three minutes. Use at least a 5Ah PowerStack or a 6Ah FlexVolt for heavy reciprocating work.
- Buy carbide blades. Yes, they cost $10 to $15 per blade compared to $3 for bi-metal, but they last 50 times longer. Literally.
- Let the tool do the work. Don't lean your entire body weight into the saw. If the blade is sharp, it should pull itself through the wood. Pushing too hard just creates heat and kills the motor.
- Use the orbital setting if you have it. Some high-end DeWALT models have an orbital switch. This moves the blade in a circular motion rather than just straight back and forth. Use it for wood to cut 20% faster. Turn it OFF for metal, or you’ll destroy the blade instantly.
- Register your tool. DeWALT’s 3-year limited warranty is actually decent, but it’s a pain to use if you don't have your receipt registered online. Take a photo of the box and the serial number now.
The DeWALT battery saw saw remains a staple because it bridges the gap between raw power and cordless convenience. Whether you're a DIYer taking down an old fence or a pro ripping out cast iron, it’s the tool that makes a miserable job slightly less miserable. Just keep your fingers away from the blade and keep the shoe pressed tight. Everything else is just physics.