You've probably seen the videos. Someone takes a tiny, sharp scalpel and drags it across their cheek, leaving a trail of gray "gunk" and peach fuzz behind. It looks satisfying. It looks scary. It also looks like something you could probably do with a cheap drugstore razor during your morning shower. But here’s the thing: dermaplaning isn't just "shaving."
Honestly, the skincare world loves to rebrand basic things to make them sound fancy. But in this case, the distinction actually matters for your skin barrier.
Dermaplaning is a professional-grade exfoliation. It’s the process of using a sterile, surgical-grade blade (usually a #10 or #14 blade) held at a 45-degree angle to scrape off the top layer of dead skin cells. Oh, and the vellus hair—that's the "peach fuzz"—goes with it. The result is skin that feels like a literal glazed donut. It’s smooth. It’s bright. Your foundation actually sits on your skin instead of hovering on top of a forest of tiny hairs.
But don't go grabbing a kitchen knife just yet.
The Science of Why Dermaplaning Works
Most people think the main point is hair removal. That’s a side benefit. The real magic of dermaplaning is the physical exfoliation.
Our skin naturally sheds cells, a process called desquamation. As we age, this process slows down. Dr. Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Entière Dermatology, often points out that when dead cells linger, they clog pores and make skin look dull. By manually removing that buildup, you’re triggering the skin to regenerate.
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It’s different from a chemical peel. Peels use acids (like glycolic or lactic) to dissolve the "glue" holding cells together. Dermaplaning just scrapes them off. It’s immediate. No waiting for peeling to start three days later.
Does the hair grow back thicker?
Let’s kill this myth right now. No. It doesn't.
Your hair is not a hydrangea bush. Cutting it at the surface does not change the follicle deep underground. Vellus hair is biologically different from the terminal hair on your head or underarms. When you dermaplane, you’re cutting the hair at a blunt angle. When it starts to peek back out, that blunt edge might feel a little "stubbly" for a second, but it’s the exact same diameter as before. It will not turn into a beard. If it did, every woman who’s ever had a medical procedure involving shaving would be walking around with a goatee.
Who Should Actually Get Dermaplaning?
If you have dry skin, you’re the target audience. If your skin looks "blah" in the mirror, this is for you. It’s also a godsend for anyone with deep acne scarring (not active breakouts!) because it smooths the surface texture.
However, there are "no-go" zones.
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- Active Acne: If you have a cystic breakout and you run a surgical blade over it, you’re going to have a bad time. You’ll spread bacteria and potentially cause permanent scarring.
- Psoriasis or Eczema: If your skin barrier is already screaming, don't scrape it.
- Nickel Allergies: Many blades are stainless steel but contain trace amounts of nickel.
Basically, if your face is currently inflamed, put the blade down. Wait for things to calm down first.
The Professional vs. At-Home Debate
This is where it gets spicy. You can buy "dermaplaning" tools at Target for five bucks. They are usually plastic sticks with a guarded blade.
Are they the same? Not really.
A professional aesthetician uses a butter-blade that is incredibly sharp and has no guard. This allows for a much deeper exfoliation. The at-home tools are essentially just eyebrow razors. They’re fine for removing hair, but they won't give you that deep, surgical-level skin resurfacing.
There’s also the safety factor. I’ve seen people give themselves "nicks" that turned into permanent marks because they didn't know how to hold the skin taut. When a pro does it, they’re stretching the skin in sections, moving with the grain, and using a specific pressure that’s hard to replicate on your own face while looking in a mirrored medicine cabinet.
Step-by-Step: What a Real Session Looks Like
- The Cleanse: Your skin has to be bone dry and double-cleansed. Any oil acts as a lubricant, which sounds good but actually makes the blade skip.
- The Scrape: The provider holds the skin tight with one hand and uses short, brisk strokes with the other. You’ll hear a "scritch-scritch" sound. It doesn't hurt. It feels like a cat licking you with a very sandpaper-y tongue.
- The Feeding: This is the most important part. Your skin is now a literal sponge. Pros usually follow up with a hydrating mask or a vitamin C serum.
- Protection: SPF is non-negotiable. You just stripped off your "shield." If you go into the sun without protection after dermaplaning, you’re asking for hyperpigmentation.
Surprising Benefits You Didn't Realize
We talk a lot about the "glow," but let's talk about your wallet.
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When you have a layer of dead skin and hair, your expensive $100 serums are mostly just sitting on top of that debris. They aren't penetrating. After a session, your skincare products work better. You actually use less product because it spreads and absorbs instantly.
Then there’s the makeup. If you’ve ever noticed your foundation looking cakey or "dusty" by noon, it’s usually because the pigment is clinging to peach fuzz. Without that hair, makeup blends into the skin like a second layer. It’s why celebs almost always do this before a red carpet event.
The Downside Nobody Talks About
It’s not all sunshine and smooth cheeks. Some people experience "dermaplaning breakouts."
This usually happens for two reasons. First, the "new" skin is sensitive and people touch their faces too much afterward, introducing bacteria. Second, some people’s skin reacts to the sudden lack of hair by producing a bit more oil.
Also, it's temporary. Your skin cells turn over every 30 days or so. Your hair grows. This isn't a "one and done" thing like LASIK. It’s maintenance. Most experts recommend every 4 to 6 weeks. Any more than that and you’re over-exfoliating, which leads to a shiny, thinned-out look that isn't actually healthy.
Making the Most of Your Treatment
If you decide to try it, don't use Retinol or any chemical exfoliants (like AHA/BHA) for at least three days before and three days after. You don't want to double up on the trauma to the skin.
Think of your skin like a piece of wood. You’re sanding it down. If you sand it too much, you hit the raw grain. You just want to take off the splinters and the old paint.
Actionable Next Steps
- Check your calendar: Do not dermaplane the day of a big event. Do it 2-3 days before to let any slight redness subside.
- Find a pro: Look for a licensed aesthetician or a medical spa. Ask if they use a surgical scalpel or a guarded tool. You want the scalpel.
- Purge your products: Check your current serums. If they contain harsh denatured alcohols, swap them for something with hyaluronic acid or ceramides for the week following your treatment.
- The Sun Rule: Buy a fresh bottle of SPF 30 or higher. You will need to apply it religiously for the first 72 hours post-procedure to prevent sun damage on those fresh, vulnerable cells.
- Monitor your skin: If you have a history of cold sores, tell your provider. The friction of the blade can sometimes trigger an outbreak, and they might suggest an antiviral beforehand.
Dermaplaning is a solid, evidence-based way to reset your complexion. It’s simple, mechanical, and effective, provided you respect the blade and your skin's need for recovery afterward. Give your face a week of "kindness" with gentle cleansers and lots of moisture, and the glow will actually last.