You’ve seen them. Those massive, slab-like black covers that look like they were ripped straight off a Ridley Scott movie set. Tesla’s Cybertruck wheels are, quite honestly, the most discussed part of a vehicle that is already a rolling lightning rod for internet drama. It’s not just about the "brutalist" aesthetic or the way they make the truck look like a low-resolution video game asset.
There’s actual science—and some pretty public failures—behind those circles.
When the Cybertruck first started hitting driveways, the conversation wasn't about the 600-plus horsepower or the stainless steel skin. It was about the rubber. Specifically, it was about how the Cybertruck wheels and their custom Goodyear Wrangler Territory RT tires were literally eating themselves. People were baffled. How does a company known for over-engineering things miss the fact that a plastic hubcap could chew through a sidewall?
The Great Aero Cover Recall That Wasn't a Recall
Let's talk about those "Base" aero covers. If you look at the early Foundation Series trucks, the plastic covers had these long "fingers" that extended out past the rim and actually touched the tire sidewall. It looked cool. It looked seamless. It was also a mechanical disaster in the making.
See, tires aren't static. When you drive, especially in a 6,800-pound beast like the Cybertruck, the rubber deforms. It bulges at the bottom where it meets the pavement. As the wheel spins, that bulge moves. On the Cybertruck, that moving bulge was rubbing against the stiff plastic fingers of the aero cover.
Tesla eventually realized that "cool" shouldn't come at the cost of a blowout. They quietly stopped shipping the covers. If you see a Cybertruck today without its covers, revealing that rugged, 7-spoke alloy underneath, that’s why. They had to go back to the drawing board to shorten those plastic extensions so the tire could actually breathe. It’s a classic example of form over function backfiring in real-time.
The Engineering Behind the Bolt Pattern
Most people don't care about bolt patterns until they try to buy aftermarket rims. Then it matters a lot. The Cybertruck wheels use a 6x139.7mm pattern.
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Why does that sound familiar?
Because it's the same pattern used by the Toyota Tacoma, the Chevy Silverado, and half the trucks on the planet. This was a smart move by Tesla. Instead of creating a proprietary nightmare, they stuck to a standard that allows for a massive variety of off-road options. However, there’s a catch. The offset is aggressive, and the center bore is specific to Tesla’s hub design. You can’t just slap old Tahoe rims on it and call it a day without some serious spacers or machining.
Then there is the weight. These aren't your average Model 3 wheels. We are talking about a vehicle that needs to support a massive payload while handling instant electric torque. The load rating on these wheels is significantly higher than almost anything else in the consumer EV space. If you swap them for cheap cast-aluminum aftermarket sets, you’re basically asking for a structural failure the first time you hit a pothole or try to tow a trailer.
Range vs. Ruggedness: The Infinite Struggle
If you pull the covers off your Cybertruck wheels, your efficiency is going to tank. It’s just physics. Those flat, ugly plastic discs are there to smooth out airflow. Without them, the air gets trapped in the wheel wells, creating turbulence that acts like a tiny parachute holding the truck back.
Some owners report a 5% to 10% drop in range just by going "naked" with the alloys. On a long road trip, that’s the difference between making it to the next Supercharger and calling a flatbed.
But here’s the thing: the stock Goodyear tires are "rugged terrain" (RT) tires. They have these deep grooves and chunky shoulders. They are loud. They are heavy. Honestly, if you’re someone who just uses the Cybertruck for Costco runs and showing off in the suburbs, these wheels are overkill. You’re paying a "tax" in range and road noise for a capability you’ll never use.
Why the Cyberbeast Gets Different Treatment
The tri-motor "Cyberbeast" variant pushes the wheels even harder. When you engage Cheetah Mode or whatever Tesla is calling their launch control this week, the sheer force applied to the bead of the tire is insane. There’s been a lot of talk in the enthusiast community about "beadlock" style wheels. While the factory Cybertruck wheels aren't true beadlocks—which are usually illegal for street use anyway—they are designed with a very high "bead hump" to prevent the tire from spinning on the rim under high torque.
The Aftermarket is Already Wild
Since Tesla struggled to ship the redesigned aero covers, a whole cottage industry has popped up. Companies like Unplugged Performance and T Sportline are making forged wheels that weigh significantly less than the factory units.
Reducing "unsprung weight"—the weight not supported by the suspension—makes the truck feel lighter on its feet. It improves braking. It makes the steering feel less like you’re piloting a tank and more like a (very large) sports car.
- Forged Wheels: Lighter, stronger, but will cost you $4,000+.
- Aero Covers: Third-party companies are making "Cyber-style" covers that don't eat the tires.
- Winter Sets: If you live in the rust belt, you're going to want 18-inch wheels with more sidewall to survive the salt and deep snow.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Size
You’ll hear people say the Cybertruck has 35-inch tires. That’s true. But the wheels themselves are 20 inches. This is a bit of a sweet spot. If Tesla had gone with 22s or 24s, the ride would be spine-shattering because there wouldn't be enough rubber to cushion the blows. By sticking with a 20-inch wheel, there’s plenty of "meat" on the sidewall.
This is crucial for off-roading. When you "air down" (lower the tire pressure) to drive on sand or rocks, you need that sidewall height to protect the rim. If you go to a larger wheel, you lose that protection. Basically, if you want to actually use the truck as a truck, don't go bigger than the stock 20s.
Real-World Maintenance Garnish
Clean them. Seriously.
The brake dust on these trucks is real, but more importantly, the stainless steel body of the truck can actually undergo "tea staining" or superficial rusting if iron particles from the brake pads settle on the surface. Because the Cybertruck wheels have such an open design once the covers are off, they throw a lot of debris toward the rocker panels.
If you’re running the stock aero covers, pop them off every few months. Dirt, salt, and grime get trapped behind the plastic and can vibrate against the aluminum rim, scratching the finish. It’s a five-minute job that saves you a lot of headache down the road.
Actionable Steps for Owners and Buyers
If you’re currently waiting for your truck or just took delivery, here is the move. Check your tire sidewalls immediately. Look for any signs of circular "scuffing" where the aero cover meets the rubber. If you see it, take those covers off and keep them off until Tesla sends you the updated version. Your safety is worth more than a few miles of range.
Secondly, if you plan on towing, stick to the factory-spec tires. The load rating is "121," which means each tire can handle over 3,000 pounds. Switching to a standard SUV tire with a lower rating is dangerous.
Finally, don't stress about the "look" of the naked wheels. The 7-spoke design underneath the plastic is actually quite high-quality and gives the truck a much more traditional "overland" vibe. Sometimes, the best upgrade is just removing the stuff the factory put on there to make it look futuristic.
Keep an eye on the lug nut torque too. With the amount of vibration and torque these wheels see, checking them at 129 lb-ft (175 Nm) after the first 1,000 miles is just good practice. Most people won't do it, but most people aren't driving a 3-ton stainless steel wedge.