You know that awkward transitional weather? It’s not quite cold enough for heavy shears, but your toes are definitely over the sandal life. Honestly, that’s exactly why cut out ankle boots became a thing in the first place. They’re weirdly perfect. They offer the structural support of a boot but let your feet breathe, which is a godsend when you're running between air-conditioned offices and sunny sidewalks.
I’ve seen people call them "Swiss cheese shoes," but let’s be real—they have a staying power most trends dream of. Ever since the Balenciaga Ceinture boots hit the runway years ago, this silhouette has refused to die. It just evolves. One year it’s all about heavy buckles and punk-rock hardware; the next, it’s sleek, minimalist slits that look like modern art.
The Identity Crisis That Actually Works
Most shoes have a job. Sneakers are for the gym. Stilettos are for weddings. Cut out ankle boots don't really care about your categories. They are the ultimate hybrid. Think about it. You’ve got the ruggedness of a leather boot mixed with the flirtiness of a peep-toe.
If you’re wearing a pair of Jeffrey Campbell Coltranes—a classic in this space—you aren’t just wearing shoes. You’re making a statement about wanting to look tough but also not wanting your feet to overheat. It’s practical. It’s also kinda edgy.
The design usually involves a standard ankle bootie frame with sections removed from the sides, the heel, or the front. This serves two purposes. First, it lightens the visual weight of the shoe. A solid black leather boot can sometimes make an outfit look bottom-heavy, especially if you’re petite. By adding "negative space," you’re essentially extending the line of your leg. Second, it lets you play with socks. Or lack thereof.
What Most People Get Wrong About Styling
Seriously, the biggest mistake is overthinking the sock situation. People panic. "Do I wear no-show socks? Do I go barefoot? Can I wear fishnets?"
The answer is yes. All of it.
If you go barefoot, you get that sleek, skin-baring look that works incredibly well with cropped denim. It looks intentional. However, if you’re wearing cut out ankle boots in October, your ankles might get a bit chilly. That’s where the "intentional sock" comes in. A glittery lurex sock or a bright neon pop peeking through the side cut-outs can turn a boring outfit into something that looks like it came off a Pinterest board. Just please, avoid those thick, white athletic socks unless you’re going for a very specific, very daring "dad core" aesthetic that honestly, most of us can't pull off.
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Let's Talk Materials and Durability
Leather is king here. Suede is fine, but it’s a nightmare to clean once dust gets into those cut-out crevices.
When you buy a pair of these, you have to look at the structural integrity of the "bridges"—those thin strips of leather that hold the shoe together around the gaps. If the leather is too cheap or thin, it’ll stretch out within three months. Then you’re left with a floppy mess that doesn't support your ankle. Search for brands that use reinforced stitching at the stress points. You want that "snap" when you walk, not a "slosh."
- Smooth Calfskin: Best for a polished, professional vibe.
- Pebbled Leather: Great for hiding scuffs and daily wear.
- Patent: High maintenance, but looks incredible with monochromatic outfits.
Why the Balenciaga Ceinture Changed Everything
We can't talk about cut out ankle boots without mentioning the 2011 Balenciaga Ceinture. It was a monster of a shoe. Chunky, heavy, laden with gold or silver hardware, and featuring massive gaps at the ankle. It shouldn't have worked. It looked like something a futuristic gladiator would wear to a riot.
But it did work.
It worked so well that every fast-fashion brand on the planet—from Zara to Steve Madden—produced a version of it. It proved that "ugly-cool" was a viable market. It also shifted the silhouette of women’s footwear away from the dainty almond toes that had dominated the early 2000s toward something much more architectural and aggressive.
Even now, over a decade later, the Ceinture and its descendants are staples. They’ve become a "new classic." Why? Because they add "grit" to a soft dress. If you’re wearing a floral midi dress and you put on ballet flats, you look like you’re going to a tea party. You put on cut out ankle boots, and suddenly you’re the coolest person in the room. It’s that contrast—the "juxtaposition," if we’re being fancy—that keeps them relevant.
Comfort vs. Aesthetic: The Honest Truth
I’ll be honest with you. Some of these boots are a literal pain.
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Because of the cut-outs, the shoe doesn't always grip your foot the way a standard boot does. If the design is poor, your heel will slip. You’ll end up with blisters in places you didn't know you could get blisters. When you’re shopping, look for pairs that have an adjustable strap around the ankle. This allows you to "lock" your foot in place regardless of the side openings.
Also, consider the weight. A heavy lug sole looks great, but if you’re walking 10,000 steps a day in a city like New York or London, your shins are going to feel it. Aim for a lightweight EVA sole if you’re actually planning on walking. If you’re just going from the Uber to the bar? Go as heavy and chunky as you want.
Seasonal Versatility: It’s Not Just for Fall
We usually think of boots as a winter thing. But cut out ankle boots are the "all-season" tires of the shoe world.
In spring, they’re perfect with a mini skirt and a light knit. The cut-outs provide enough airflow so you don’t feel like your feet are in a sauna. In the fall, they’re the natural companion to leather jackets and distressed jeans.
Even in summer—if you’re at a music festival or somewhere dusty—they’re way better than sandals. Nobody wants their toes stepped on in a crowd, and a cut-out boot gives you protection while still feeling "summery." Just avoid wearing them in the rain. Water has a funny way of finding those cut-outs and turning your socks into sponges. It’s not a good look, and it’s definitely not a good feeling.
The Maintenance Factor
You have to be more careful with these than regular boots.
Dust and grime love to settle on the edges of the cut-outs. If you’re wearing black leather, the edges can start to look gray or frayed over time. A quick hit with a leather conditioner and a soft brush once a month keeps the "architecture" of the shoe looking sharp. If the boots have hardware—like buckles or studs—check them periodically to make sure they aren't loosening. Nothing ruins a walk like a buckle flying off into a sewer grate.
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Real-World Examples of Who is Doing it Right
If you’re looking to invest, certain brands have mastered the art of the cut-out.
Chloe has done some beautiful, softer versions with scalloped edges and gold hardware that feel very "boho-chic." On the other end of the spectrum, AllSaints usually nails the grittier, rock-and-roll vibe with distressed leathers and pointed toes.
For the budget-conscious, ASOS and Topshop (now via ASOS) consistently churn out versions that mimic the high-end designers. Just check the reviews for "stiffness." Cheap faux leather in a cut-out design can be particularly sharp against the skin. You want something that has a bit of give.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Purchase
Don't just buy the first pair you see on a social media ad. Cut out ankle boots require a bit of strategy to get right.
- Check the Heel-to-Ankle Ratio: Make sure the cut-out doesn't sit exactly where your ankle bone is. If the leather rubs against that bone every time you step, you will hate those shoes within twenty minutes.
- Evaluate Your Sock Drawer: Before buying, decide if you're a "no-show" person or a "statement sock" person. If you hate the idea of people seeing your socks, look for boots with smaller, more discreet side slits.
- Think About Your Hemlines: These boots look best when there is a small gap of skin between the top of the boot and the bottom of your pants. If your jeans are too long, they’ll cover the best part of the shoe. You might need to cuff your denim or opt for cropped lengths.
- Test the Weight: Pick the boot up. Is it a brick? If so, make sure it has a cushioned insole. Your feet will thank you later.
- Color Matters: While black is the classic choice, a tan or "cognac" cut-out boot is actually much easier to style in the spring and summer. It feels less "heavy" and blends better with lighter fabrics.
Basically, these boots are for people who want the edge of a boot with the breathability of a shoe. They’ve survived the fickle nature of the fashion industry because they actually solve a problem—the "in-between" weather problem. They aren't going anywhere. Whether you go for the full Balenciaga-inspired heavy metal look or a subtle, laser-cut suede version, you’re buying a piece that works surprisingly hard in a modern wardrobe.
Stop worrying about if they're "still in style." If you like the way they look with your favorite jeans, that's all the validation you need. Just keep an eye on those edges, pick a good leather, and maybe invest in some decent no-show liners if you’re going for the "barely there" look. Your ankles deserve to be seen.