You’re standing in the middle of the hardware aisle at Lowe's or staring at a cluttered pegboard in your garage. You just need to hang a heavy shelf or maybe bolt down a new workbench. Then you see them. The clear plastic cases with that familiar red logo. Craftsman tools drill bits have been the literal backbone of American DIY culture for nearly a century, but things have changed. If you’re still using the same rusted bits your dad handed down in a greasy coffee can, you're doing it wrong. Honestly, the metallurgy involved in modern bit manufacturing is lightyears ahead of where it was even ten years ago.
Speed and heat. That’s the battle.
Most people think a drill bit is just a piece of twisted metal, but it’s actually a high-performance cutting tool that lives or dies by its coating and the angle of its tip. If you buy the wrong Craftsman set, you'll end up smoking your motor or snapping a tip off inside a piece of expensive oak. It’s frustrating. It's loud. It's avoidable.
The Reality of Modern Craftsman Metallurgy
Let’s get real about what you’re actually buying. Craftsman doesn't just make one "drill bit." They have tiers. You’ve got your standard high-speed steel (HSS), your Black Oxide, your Titanium, and the heavy-duty Cobalt.
Most homeowners grab the Black Oxide sets because they’re affordable and look sleek. Black Oxide is basically HSS that’s been heated to create a surface layer that resists corrosion and reduces friction. It’s great for PVC, wood, and soft metals. But if you try to take a Black Oxide bit to stainless steel? Forget it. You’ll dull that bit in three seconds flat.
Then there’s the Cobalt line. These aren't just coated; they’re an alloy. Craftsman’s Cobalt bits are designed specifically for the hard stuff—think cast iron or stainless steel. They can handle the heat. Most people don't realize that heat is the primary "bit killer." When a bit gets too hot, the metal softens, the edge rounds over, and suddenly you aren't drilling; you're just rubbing two pieces of metal together until they glow.
Why the Gold Coating Isn't Just for Show
You've seen the gold-colored bits. Those are Titanium Nitride (TiN) coated. In the world of Craftsman tools drill bits, these are the workhorses. The coating is incredibly hard. It allows you to run your drill at higher RPMs without the bit losing its temper.
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But here’s the kicker most folks miss: you can’t really sharpen a titanium-coated bit. Once the coating wears off the cutting edge, you’re back down to standard high-speed steel. If you’re the type of person who likes to use a Bench Grinder to bring your bits back to life, stick with the Cobalt or the plain HSS.
The Split Point Revolution
Have you ever tried to start a hole and the bit just "walks" across the surface, scratching your project? It’s the worst. Craftsman has largely moved toward 135-degree split-point tips on their higher-end sets.
Older bits usually have a 118-degree angle. The 118 is fine for general wood, but on metal, it likes to wander. The 135-degree split point starts on contact. No center punch required, though it’s still a good habit to use one. It’s a small geometric change that makes a massive difference in your frustration levels on a Saturday morning.
Comparing Craftsman to the "Pro" Brands
Look, we have to talk about the elephant in the room. Stanley Black & Decker bought Craftsman from Sears back in 2017. Since then, there’s been a lot of "internet noise" about whether the quality is the same.
I’ve spent hours looking at these side-by-side with DeWalt and Milwaukee bits. Here’s the truth: they often come out of the same factories. However, Craftsman bits are frequently engineered for the "prosumer." They offer a balance. You aren't paying the $100 "contractor tax" for a massive kit, but you’re getting significantly better performance than the generic house brands you’d find at a discount grocery store or a gas station.
If you’re building a deck, the Craftsman impact-rated bits are legitimately solid. They have a torsion zone—a slimmed-down middle section—that allows the bit to flex under the heavy "thumping" of an impact driver. Without that flex, the bit just snaps. I've seen it happen a thousand times.
What Most People Get Wrong About Wood Boring
If you’re using a standard twist bit to bore a 1-inch hole through a 4x4, you’re making life hard on yourself. Craftsman’s spade bits (some call them paddle bits) are the way to go for rough construction.
But there’s a nuance here.
The newer "Tri-Flute" or auger-style bits they’ve released lately are actually much cleaner. A spade bit tends to "blow out" the back of the wood, leaving a splintered mess. If you’re doing fine furniture or something that people will actually see, you need to switch to a Brad Point bit. These have a tiny sharp pin in the center and "ears" on the outside that score the wood fibers before the main cutting edge hits. This results in a hole that looks like it was made by a laser, not a beaver.
Maintaining Your Investment
Don't just throw them back in the box wet.
Seriously.
Even the coated bits can develop surface rust in a humid garage. A quick wipe with a rag dampened with 3-in-One oil or even WD-40 can keep that set looking new for years. And if you’re drilling metal? Use oil. Any oil. Motor oil, specialized cutting fluid, even cooking oil in a pinch. It keeps the temperature down and the bit sharp.
Selecting the Right Set for Your Specific Needs
Don’t just buy the biggest box because it has more pieces. A 100-piece set usually includes 40 screwdriver bits you’ll never use and five copies of the same tiny 1/16th bit that breaks the first time you look at it.
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- The Apartment Dweller: A small 15-20 piece Black Oxide set is plenty for hanging pictures and assembling IKEA furniture.
- The Weekend Warrior: Look for the Titanium sets. They handle the mix of wood, plastic, and the occasional light metal bracket without breaking a sweat.
- The Auto/Metal Enthusiast: You need the Cobalt. Don't even bother with the others. You’ll be drilling out broken bolts or modifying brackets, and Cobalt is the only thing that won't give up on you.
Specialized Bits You Might Actually Need
Sometimes a standard twist bit won't cut it.
- Step Bits: These look like little pyramids. If you need to drill a clean, wide hole in thin sheet metal (like a junction box), these are a godsend. Craftsman makes a multi-set that covers everything from 1/8 to 1/2 inch.
- Masonry Bits: These have a carbide tip that looks like a little shovel. They don't "cut" so much as they "hammer." Use these with a hammer drill for brick or concrete. If you use a regular wood bit on concrete, you will melt it instantly. I’ve seen it happen. It’s a molten mess.
- Glass and Tile Bits: These have a spear-shaped carbide tip. Drilling into a bathroom tile is terrifying because it can crack so easily. These bits are designed to scrape away the glaze slowly.
Understanding the Shank
One thing to watch for is the shank—the part that goes into the drill. Most Craftsman bits now feature a "Power Groove" or a hex shank. This is great because it prevents the bit from slipping in the chuck. There is nothing more annoying than the drill spinning while the bit stays still, scarred and marred by the chuck's teeth. Hex shanks also mean you can pop them directly into an impact driver or a quick-change connector.
The Longevity Factor
How long should a bit last? Honestly, it depends on you. If you’re shoving the drill down with all your body weight and running it at full speed until it smokes, your bits will last one project.
If you let the tool do the work, use a little lubricant on metal, and clear the chips (pull the bit out of the hole every few seconds to let the dust fly off), a good set of Craftsman tools drill bits can easily last a decade.
It’s about the "feel." You can hear when a bit is cutting and when it's struggling. A sharp bit makes "chips" or long spirals of metal. A dull bit makes "dust." If you see dust coming out of a metal hole, stop immediately.
Real-World Case: The Rusted Bolt
I remember trying to drill out a snapped grade-8 manifold bolt on an old Chevy. I started with a cheap "no-name" bit from a bargain bin. It literally flattened the tip within ten seconds. Switched to a Craftsman Cobalt bit, used a drop of oil, and kept the RPMs low. It sliced through like it was cutting through cheese. That’s the difference between a tool and a toy.
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Actionable Steps for Your Next Project
- Check your drill speed: Wood likes high speed; metal likes slow speed. If you're drilling steel, your drill should be spinning much slower than you think.
- Clear the flutes: When drilling deep into wood, the "flutes" (the spirals) get clogged with sawdust. This creates friction and heat. Pull the bit out frequently to "breathe."
- Match the bit to the material: Do not use masonry bits on wood (it burns) and do not use wood bits on stone (it destroys the bit).
- Invest in a bit sharpener: If you use your tools often, a dedicated sharpener can save you hundreds of dollars over a lifetime.
- Upgrade your storage: If your bit case is cracked or doesn't hold the bits securely, move them to a dedicated organizer. Banging against each other in a drawer is a great way to dull the cutting edges.
The right bit makes the job feel easy. The wrong one makes you want to throw your drill through the window. Craftsman tools drill bits provide a very solid middle ground that handles about 95% of what any normal person is ever going to encounter in their home or shop. Just make sure you're picking the right metallurgy for the material in front of you.
When you head to the store, skip the "everything-plus-the-kitchen-sink" kits and look for a high-quality Titanium or Cobalt set that covers the sizes you actually use—usually 1/16th to 1/2 inch. Your drill, and your wrists, will thank you.