You’ve seen them in the red-and-black aisles at Lowe's. They look shiny. They look affordable. But if you’re like me, you probably grew up during that weird era where the brand's quality took a bit of a nosedive after the Sears transition. Honestly, I was skeptical when I first picked up the Craftsman cordless reciprocating saw from the V20 line. I expected a toy. I expected it to bog down the second I hit a galvanized pipe or a knotty 4x4.
I was wrong.
Basically, this tool—specifically the CMCS300 model—is the workhorse for the person who doesn't want to spend $200 on a bare tool but still needs to rip through a deck renovation on a Saturday morning. It’s not a Milwaukee Fuel. It’s not trying to be. But for a homeowner or a light contractor, the value proposition is actually kind of insane.
What Most People Get Wrong About the V20 System
There’s this weird elitism in the tool world. If it isn’t yellow or teal, some guys won't touch it. But here is the reality: the Craftsman cordless reciprocating saw shares a massive amount of DNA with Stanley Black & Decker’s higher-end offerings. They aren't identical, obviously, but the motor technology in the V20 series is surprisingly robust.
One thing people mess up is the battery choice. You cannot run a reciprocating saw—a tool that literally survives on high-torque, high-vibration friction—on a tiny 1.5Ah or 2.0Ah slim pack. You just can't. If you do, the saw will feel weak. It'll stall. You'll blame the tool. In reality, you're just starving it of "juice." Toss a 4.0Ah or the newer 6.0Ah pack on there, and the thing transforms. It’s a night and day difference in terms of stroke consistency.
The stroke length sits at 1 inch. Some pro-grade saws go up to 1-1/8 or even 1-1/4 inches. Does that quarter inch matter? If you're demoing a whole house, yeah, maybe. If you're cutting a PVC drain pipe or some overgrown branches in the backyard? Not even a little bit.
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The Reality of Vibration and Control
Reciprocating saws are violent. That’s their whole job description. They are essentially motorized hacksaws that want to shake your teeth out of your skull.
The Craftsman cordless reciprocating saw handles vibration... okay. It’s not "vibration-free," because that doesn't exist. But the over-molded grip is thick enough that your hands don't feel like they're buzzing for twenty minutes after you finish a cut. One thing I actually love is the pivoting shoe. It’s simple. It’s not fancy. But it stays where you put it, which helps keep the saw pressed against the material to reduce that "chatter" that breaks blades.
Speaking of blades, the tool-less blade release on this model is actually one of the better designs I’ve used. It’s a lever on the side of the housing. You don't have to twist a tiny, greasy collar near the blade itself—which is a nightmare when the blade is hot or you're wearing thick gloves. You just flip the lever, the old blade usually just falls out, and you slide the new one in. Simple.
Brushless vs. Brushed: Which One Actually Matters?
You'll see two versions of this saw. The standard brushed version is cheaper. The RP (Runtime + Performance) brushless version is the one you probably want if you’re doing more than just trimming a few limbs.
Brushless motors are more efficient. They run cooler. They last longer. But more importantly for a saw like this, they have electronic speed control that keeps the blade moving even when the resistance increases. If you're cutting through a sandwich of plywood, shingles, and old nails, the brushless Craftsman cordless reciprocating saw won't "dip" in RPMs as much as the brushed one.
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Real-World Limitations (The Stuff the Box Won't Tell You)
Let's be real for a second. If you try to use this saw to cut through a 6-inch cast iron soil pipe all day long, you’re going to kill it. It’s a medium-duty tool. The housing is plastic—high-quality plastic, sure, but it’s not a magnesium-bodied monster designed for 8-hour shifts on a commercial demolition site.
Also, the weight balance can feel a bit "nose-heavy" if you’re using a small battery. This is another reason to stick with the larger batteries; they act as a counterweight to the motor assembly, making the tool much easier to swing around when you’re cutting overhead.
- Pros: Incredible price-to-performance ratio, widely available at big-box stores, very comfortable handle.
- Cons: Not as fast as 36V or 60V systems, can get hot during prolonged heavy use.
Why This Saw is the "Sweet Spot" for DIYers
I’ve seen guys use this saw for everything. It’s great for:
- Cutting through "hidden" nails in pallet wood.
- Pruning trees when you don't want to pull out a chainsaw.
- Notching 2x4s for rough-in plumbing.
- Slicing through old exhaust pipes under a car.
The Craftsman cordless reciprocating saw is basically the "gateway drug" to the V20 platform. Because it’s often bundled in kits, people end up with it by accident and then realize it’s actually the tool they use the most. It’s small enough to fit between studs but powerful enough to handle a structural renovation if you aren't in a massive rush.
One specific detail that often gets overlooked is the variable speed trigger. It’s remarkably sensitive. On some cheap saws, the trigger is basically an "on/off" switch. On this Craftsman, you can actually tease the blade to start a cut on a round pipe without it skittering all over the surface. That kind of control is rare at this price point.
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Dealing With the Heat
If you are pushing this tool hard, the vents near the front will blast hot air. This is normal, but it’s a reminder to let the tool breathe. Don't wrap your hand over the vents. I see people do this when they're trying to get extra leverage, and all it does is cook the motor. Hold it by the designated "boot" on the front and the handle on the back. That's it.
The Verdict on the V20 System in 2026
The V20 battery platform has matured. A few years ago, there weren't many tools. Now, there are over 100. This matters because buying a Craftsman cordless reciprocating saw isn't just about the saw; it's about the ecosystem. If you have the saw, you have the battery for the leaf blower, the drill, and the tire inflator.
It’s a solid, honest tool. It doesn't pretend to be an industrial-grade demolition hammer. It’s a saw that works when you pull the trigger, doesn't cost a fortune, and survives being tossed in the back of a truck.
Next Steps for Getting the Most Out of Your Saw
To actually get the performance I'm talking about, stop buying the "multi-pack" generic blades. They’re trash. If you want this saw to punch above its weight class, pair it with Diablo Carbide-Tipped blades. A Craftsman saw with a Diablo blade will outperform a Milwaukee saw with a dull, cheap blade every single day of the week.
Check your battery's state of charge before a big job. These V20 batteries have a 3-LED indicator. If you're down to one bar, don't start a heavy cut. High-draw tools like reciprocating saws can "trip" the battery's internal protection circuit if the voltage is too low under load. Keep a fresh 4.0Ah pack on the charger, and you'll be able to work through almost any residential demo project without a hitch.