If you’ve spent any time driving through the heart of Iowa, you’ve seen the name. Maybe it was on a label inside a vintage coat you found at a thrift shop, or perhaps you noticed it on the side of a massive downtown building. Cownie Furs Des Moines is one of those local institutions that feels like it’s just part of the city's DNA. Honestly, it’s hard to talk about the history of Des Moines business without talking about the Cownie family.
But here’s the thing: most people today know the name "Cownie" because of politics or philanthropy, not necessarily because they’re in the market for a mink stole. Frank Cownie served as the mayor of Des Moines for twenty years, making him a household name for a completely different reason than his grandfather.
Yet, the fur business is where it all started. It’s a story of Scottish immigrants, a booming 1900s manufacturing scene, and a retail survival act that has outlasted almost every other department store from that era.
The Long History of Cownie Furs Des Moines
The roots of this business go way back to 1888. That’s when the Cownie ancestors first set up shop. Back then, Des Moines wasn't the insurance capital of the world; it was a hub for trade and tanning. By 1907, the operation had officially evolved into what we recognize today.
Basically, the Cownie Tanning Company became a powerhouse. They weren't just selling coats; they were processing hides. Think about it—Iowa was a state of hunters and farmers. If you had a buffalo hide or a horsehair blanket that needed professional work, Cownie was the place you went.
Why the store stayed on Ingersoll
For decades, Cownie Furs Des Moines has anchored the area known as The Avenues (Ingersoll and Grand). While other luxury retailers fled to the suburbs or died out when the big malls like Jordan Creek opened, Cownie stayed put.
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There’s a certain kind of old-school loyalty there.
The store at 510 28th Street became a landmark. It’s not just a shop; it’s a service center. They do cold storage, which is something most people under 40 don't even think about. But if you own a high-end fur or leather piece, the Iowa humidity in August will absolutely destroy it.
The Cownies built a business model on the fact that once you buy a luxury coat, you need someone to take care of it for the next thirty years. That’s how you survive for over a century.
Is Cownie Furs still a "thing" in 2026?
It’s a fair question. The world has changed. Fashion has moved toward synthetics, and the ethical conversation around fur is a lot different than it was in 1950.
But Cownie Furs Des Moines adapted.
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They shifted heavily into leathers, shearlings, and specialized outerwear. They also lean hard into the "circular economy" before that was even a buzzword. They restyle old furs. If you inherit your grandmother's vintage mink, you probably won't wear it as-is—it’ll look like a costume. But Cownie can take that same material and turn it into a modern vest or a throw blanket.
The Political Connection
You can't talk about the business without mentioning T.M. Franklin Cownie. Frank, as everyone calls him, ran the city from 2004 until early 2024. But even while he was at City Hall dealing with budgets and zoning, he was still the owner of the fur shop.
In fact, the city recently honored his legacy by naming the new City Administration Building at 1200 Locust Street after him. The "T.M. Franklin Cownie City Administration Building" started seeing departments move in right at the start of 2026.
It’s a weird mix of identities. On one hand, you have a legacy of high-end fashion and tanning. On the other, you have the face of modern Des Moines government.
What most people get wrong about the business
A lot of people think Cownie is just for the elite.
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Sure, they sell $5,000 coats. But a huge chunk of their modern business is actually repairs and cleaning for everyday leather jackets. If your zipper breaks on a heavy leather coat, your local dry cleaner might not touch it. Cownie will.
- Longevity: They’ve been at it for over 115 years.
- Services: It’s more about maintenance than just sales now.
- Ownership: It remains a family-owned operation in an era of corporate conglomerates.
Kinda impressive when you think about how many other local shops have folded.
The future of luxury retail in Iowa
Honestly, the survival of a place like Cownie Furs Des Moines depends on the younger generation's interest in "buy once, buy well." There’s a growing trend of people moving away from fast fashion. They want items that last decades.
Leather and fur (especially vintage or repurposed) fit that "slow fashion" vibe perfectly.
If you have a piece of family history sitting in a closet, or if you're looking for a coat that can actually handle a -20°F wind chill on Court Avenue in January, these are the experts.
Actionable steps for vintage owners
If you’ve found a Cownie label in a coat you just bought or inherited, here’s what you should actually do:
- Check the Lining: Look for any "shedding" of the leather underneath the fur. If it feels brittle like paper, it might be past its prime for a full restyle.
- Professional Cleaning: Don't use a standard dry cleaner. Fur and leather require specific oils to be replenished during the cleaning process.
- Storage Matters: If you don't want to pay for professional cold storage, at least keep the coat in a cool, dark, and dry closet. Never put it in a plastic bag—fur needs to "breathe" or it will rot.
- Visit the Store: Take it to the Ingersoll location. They can give you an honest assessment of whether a restyle is worth the investment.
The name Cownie isn't just on a building downtown; it's a piece of Des Moines' industrial and retail history that's still standing. Whether you’re into the fashion or the local lore, it’s a legacy that’s managed to stay relevant through a century of radical change.