Northern Ireland is small. You can drive from the jagged basalt columns of the north coast to the soft, rolling drumlins of the south in about two hours, maybe less if you’ve got a heavy foot and the M2 is clear. But size is deceptive. If you look at the six counties in Northern Ireland, you aren't just looking at administrative lines on a map drawn up during the partition in 1921. You’re looking at six completely different personalities, distinct accents, and a fair bit of local rivalry.
People often get confused. They think "Ulster" and "Northern Ireland" are the same thing. They aren't. Ulster has nine counties, but only six of them make up Northern Ireland. This distinction matters deeply to the people living there. It's the difference between being in the UK and being in the Republic. If you’re planning a trip or just trying to understand the geopolitical jigsaw of the UK, you’ve gotta know the nuances. It's not just "The North." It’s Antrim, Down, Armagh, Tyrone, Fermanagh, and Londonderry—or Derry, depending on who you’re talking to and what pub you’re sitting in.
County Antrim: More Than Just a Giant's Causeway
Antrim is the heavyweight. It’s got Belfast, it’s got the international airport, and it’s got the Causeway Coast which basically keeps the tourism industry breathing. But here’s the thing: most people just see the Giant's Causeway and leave. That’s a mistake. Honestly, the Glens of Antrim are where the real soul of the county lives. There are nine glens in total, each with a name that sounds like something out of a folk song—Glenarm, Glendun, Glenshane.
Belfast itself is technically split between Antrim and Down, but the industrial heart, the Harland & Wolff cranes (Samson and Goliath), and the Titanic Quarter sit firmly on the Antrim side. It’s a gritty, fast-paced city that has transformed. Gone are the days when the city center was a "no-go" zone after dark. Now, you’ve got the Cathedral Quarter, which is basically one long stretch of cobblestones, fairy lights, and some of the best whiskey bars in Europe like The Duke of York.
If you head north from the city, you hit the Antrim Plateau. It’s bleak, windy, and beautiful. This is where Game of Thrones filmed a huge chunk of its outdoor scenes. You’ve probably seen the Dark Hedges—that avenue of beech trees that looks like a tunnel. It’s in Antrim. But word of advice: go at 6:00 AM. Otherwise, you’ll be sharing the "mystical experience" with three tour buses and fifty people with selfie sticks.
The Lushness of County Down
Down is Antrim’s softer, wealthier-looking cousin. It’s got the Mourne Mountains. Percy French wrote a famous song about them "sweeping down to the sea," and he wasn't exaggerating. Slieve Donard is the highest peak in Northern Ireland, sitting at 850 meters. It’s a tough hike but the view from the top across the Irish Sea to the Isle of Man is worth the burning calves.
What's interesting about Down is the contrast. You have the Ards Peninsula, which feels like a forgotten world of tiny fishing villages and salty air. Then you have North Down, specifically the "Gold Coast" around Holywood and Cultra. This is where the money is. Huge Victorian mansions overlook Belfast Lough. It’s also home to the Ulster Folk Museum, which is basically a time capsule. They literally moved old buildings from across Ireland—stone by stone—and rebuilt them there. You can walk into a schoolhouse from the 1800s and smell the turf smoke. It’s weirdly immersive.
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Strangford Lough is the centerpiece of the county. It’s a huge sea lough, almost totally enclosed. It has 365 islands—or so the locals say. One for every day of the year. It’s a massive wildlife sanctuary. If you like seals and Brent geese, this is your spot. It’s also where St. Patrick supposedly landed. In fact, Downpatrick is where he’s buried. The cathedral there is quiet, unassuming, and deeply historical.
County Armagh: The Orchard County and the Spiritual Hub
Armagh is the smallest county, but it punches way above its weight in terms of history. It’s known as the "Orchard County" because of the thousands of acres of Bramley apple trees. If you’re there in May, the blossoms make the whole place look like it’s covered in pink snow. It’s stunning.
But the real story of Armagh is the city itself. Armagh City is the ecclesiastical capital of Ireland. It has two cathedrals, both named St. Patrick's. One is Catholic, one is Protestant. They sit on two different hills facing each other. It’s a literal representation of the history of the island. The city is built largely from "Armagh marble," which is actually a type of limestone that glows a sort of dusky pink in the rain.
Just outside the city is Navan Fort (Emain Macha). This isn't a "fort" in the way you’re thinking—no stone walls or turrets. It’s a series of massive earthworks. It was the seat of the Kings of Ulster for centuries. This is the landscape of the Ulster Cycle myths—Cú Chulainn and the Red Branch Knights. Standing on the mound at Navan Fort, you realize that the history of the counties in Northern Ireland goes back way further than the 1920s. We’re talking thousands of years of continuous habitation.
County Tyrone: The Heartland You Probably Overlook
Tyrone is huge. It’s the largest county by land area in Northern Ireland, but it’s often overlooked by tourists because it doesn’t have a coastline. Big mistake. Tyrone is the rugged heartland. It’s dominated by the Sperrin Mountains—an ancient, rounded range that feels ancient and wild.
The Gortin Glen Forest Park is a highlight here. It’s got these driving trails where you can see Sika deer. But if you want something really unique, you go to the Beaghmore Stone Circles. These are Bronze Age megaliths discovered in the 1940s during peat cutting. They aren't as famous as Stonehenge, but you can actually touch them. You can stand among them in the middle of a bog with nobody else around. It’s eerie.
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Tyrone is also the ancestral home of the O'Neill clan, the old High Kings. Their history is everywhere. Then you have the Ulster American Folk Park near Omagh. It tells the story of the massive migration from Ulster to America in the 18th and 19th centuries. They’ve got actual log cabins from Pennsylvania and thatched cottages from Tyrone. It explains why so many US Presidents (like Andrew Jackson and Ulysses S. Grant) have roots in these specific six counties.
County Fermanagh: The Lakeland
Fermanagh is basically more water than land. It’s centered around Upper and Lower Lough Erne. If you live in Fermanagh, you probably own a boat, or at least know someone who does. Enniskillen is the main town, and it’s unique because it’s situated on an island between the two lakes.
This county feels different from the rest. It’s slower. More relaxed. You spend your time exploring the Marble Arch Caves—a subterranean world of stalactites and underground rivers—or visiting the "Janus Figure" on Boa Island. This is a pre-Christian stone carving with two faces, looking forward and backward. It’s incredibly rare and sits in a tiny, overgrown graveyard.
Fermanagh is also home to some of the most impressive "big houses" in Ireland. Castle Coole and Florence Court are National Trust properties that show the sheer scale of the Anglo-Irish estates. The contrast between the rugged beauty of the Lakelands and the manicured gardens of these estates is sharp.
County Londonderry (Derry): A Tale of Two Names
Then we have the northwest. The name itself is a point of contention. Most people living there call it Derry. Official UK maps call it Londonderry. In conversation, people often say "Derry-stroke-Londonderry" or just "Legenderry" to avoid the politics.
The city is famous for its walls. They were built between 1613 and 1618 and they have never been breached—hence the nickname "The Maiden City." You can walk the entire circumference of the walls, looking down into the Bogside on one side and the city center on the other. It’s a living history lesson.
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But the county is more than the city. It has the Benone Strand, a seven-mile stretch of golden sand that is officially one of the best beaches in the UK. Looming over the beach is Mussenden Temple, a tiny circular library perched on the very edge of a 120-foot cliff. It was built for the Earl Bishop of Derry in the 1700s. It looks like it belongs in Italy, not on the windy coast of Northern Ireland. The sheer audacity of building a library on a crumbling cliff edge tells you everything you need to know about the characters who shaped this land.
Realities of the Border
The thing about the counties in Northern Ireland is that the border with the Republic is invisible. You’ll be driving through County Fermanagh or County Armagh and the only way you know you’ve crossed into the Republic (Monaghan or Cavan) is that the road signs change from miles to kilometers and the road markings change color.
There are no checkpoints. There are no walls. It’s a seamless transition now, which is something people fought very hard for. This "soft border" is what makes the region so accessible. You can have breakfast in a cafe in Newry (County Down) and be in Dundalk (County Louth) in twenty minutes without ever showing a passport.
Navigating the Six Counties: Practical Insights
If you’re actually going to explore these places, don't try to do it all in a weekend. You’ll spend the whole time in your car. Instead, pick a "hub."
- Belfast is the obvious choice for Antrim and Down.
- Enniskillen is perfect for exploring Fermanagh and parts of Tyrone.
- Derry City serves as the gateway for the North Coast and Donegal (which is in the Republic but right next door).
Public transport exists—Translink runs the buses and trains—but honestly, it's a bit patchy once you get away from the main Belfast-Derry line. If you want to see the Beaghmore Stones or the Glens of Antrim, you need a car. Just be prepared for narrow roads. "A-roads" are fine, but "B-roads" can sometimes feel like you’re driving through someone’s driveway. And watch out for sheep. They have a death wish and a complete lack of respect for traffic laws.
The weather? It’s going to rain. Even if the forecast says sun, bring a raincoat. The locals call it "soft weather." It’s why the grass is so impossibly green. When the sun does come out, though, there is nowhere on earth that looks quite like the North Coast or the Mournes. The light becomes very clear, almost sharp.
What to Do Next
If you're serious about visiting or learning more about the counties in Northern Ireland, your next step should be looking into the Heritage Ireland or National Trust sites within each.
- For History Buffs: Research the "Plantation of Ulster." It’s the event that explains why these six counties are different from the rest of Ireland. It shaped the religion, the architecture, and the politics.
- For Nature Lovers: Look up the Causeway Coastal Route. It’s rated as one of the top drives in the world. It takes you through Antrim and Derry and covers most of the major landmarks.
- For the Culture Seekers: Check the local festival calendars. Whether it’s the Maiden City Festival in Derry or the Buskfest in Banbridge, the local culture is best experienced through the music and food, rather than just looking at monuments.
Every county has its own "thing." Armagh has its apples, Down has its mountains, Antrim has its coast, Fermanagh has its lakes, Tyrone has its hills, and Derry has its walls. They aren't just lines on a map; they are six distinct ways of life.