You’ve seen it. That crisp white T-shirt with the bold, black serif lettering. Maybe it was on Pedro Pascal at a movie premiere, or perhaps you caught Troye Sivan wearing it while he tore up the stage at Coachella. It’s everywhere. It’s called the Conner Ives Protect the Dolls tee, and honestly, it’s one of those rare moments where fashion actually stops being about "vibes" and starts being about something real.
Fashion moves fast. One day we’re all wearing oversized blazers, and the next, we’re obsessed with some niche "core" aesthetic. But this? This is different.
What the Conner Ives Protect the Dolls Movement Is Really About
The whole thing started at the end of the Conner Ives AW25 show in London. Usually, a designer takes a quick bow in a black sweater or some cool workwear. Not Conner. He walked out in a T-shirt he’d printed just hours before.
It wasn't even part of the official collection.
He basically just felt like he had to say something. The "dolls" in the slogan is a term of endearment deeply rooted in Black and Latine ballroom culture from the 1980s. It’s how trans women and transfeminine people refer to each other—it’s about beauty, sisterhood, and resilience.
But why "Protect"?
Well, the timing wasn't an accident. Ives, an American living in London, was watching the political landscape for trans people in the U.S. and UK start to look pretty grim. New laws, Supreme Court rulings, and a general "militant" stance from some governments made the safety of his friends—the very women who walk his runways—feel fragile.
From a Notes App Idea to a Sensation
Ives actually workshopped the phrase on his phone. He thought about "I Heart the Dolls" or "For the Dolls."
They felt too soft.
He was in his studio with model and long-time collaborator Hunter Pifer, who is trans. They were looking for a phrase that didn't feel "miserable" but still carried weight. When "Protect the Dolls" came up, it stuck. It was direct. It was urgent.
He used heat-transfer paper and a deadstock tee. Total production time? Maybe three minutes.
The next morning, his inbox was a disaster zone. Over 400 people wanted to buy a shirt that didn't even exist as a product yet. He realized he couldn't just keep it as a personal statement. He had to make it a tool.
The Reality of the "Protect the Dolls" Impact
Look, we’ve all seen "activist" fashion before. Most of the time, it’s a giant corporation slapping a rainbow on a shirt in June and pocketing the cash. This isn't that.
Conner Ives decided to donate 100% of the profits to Trans Lifeline.
That is massive.
By late 2025, the initiative had already raised over $600,000. That’s not just "awareness." That is actual money paying for a peer-support hotline and microgrants for trans people in crisis. It’s tangible help for people who are navigating a world that often feels like it's trying to legislate them out of existence.
Why Celebrities Are Buying (Not Borrowing) These
Here is a cool detail most people miss: the celebrities wearing these shirts? They aren't "gifting" them.
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Usually, when you see a star in designer gear, it’s a PR loan. The brand sends it, the star wears it, the brand gets the tag. Ives made it clear on Instagram that these were purchased. Addison Rae, Tilda Swinton, and Lux Pascal (Pedro’s sister and a fierce activist herself) all put their money where their mouth is.
Seeing Pedro Pascal wear it to his 50th birthday and then again on a red carpet in London was a "moment." It signaled that allyship isn't just a one-off post; it's a persistent stance.
The Language of the Dolls
If you aren't part of the LGBTQ+ community, the word "doll" might sound a bit confusing. Some people worry it’s objectifying.
It’s actually the opposite.
In the ballroom scene, calling someone a doll was the ultimate compliment. It meant you were "the girl." You had the look, the walk, and the presence. It’s a word that was reclaimed to celebrate a specific kind of feminine power that exists outside of traditional cisgender norms.
A Quick Breakdown of the Design
- Typeface: Big Caslon (a classic, authoritative serif).
- Color: Stark black ink on white cotton.
- Fabric: 100% organic cotton, ethically printed in the UK.
- The Vibe: It looks like something you’d find at a 1980s protest or a vintage shop, which fits perfectly with Ives’ overall brand mission of upcycling and "New Americana."
Ives has a background in upcycling. He literally built his brand by turning old T-shirts and deadstock fabric into high-fashion gowns. So, using a simple tee to make his biggest political statement yet? It feels very "full circle."
What Most People Get Wrong About the Slogan
There’s been some controversy, which is inevitable. Since Ives didn't trademark the phrase—he’s gone on record saying the language "isn't his to own"—copycats have flooded the market.
You’ll see cheap versions on fast-fashion sites.
The problem? None of that money goes to Trans Lifeline.
If you see a $15 version of the "Protect the Dolls" shirt, it’s likely a cash grab. The original costs around £75 (roughly $95-$100), which sounds like a lot for a T-shirt until you realize that about two-thirds of that price is a direct donation to charity.
The "luxury" price point is actually the point. It’s a high-value donation disguised as a fashion purchase.
Why This Matters in 2026
We are living in a time where the "culture wars" are centered heavily on gender identity. In the U.S., federal definitions of sex are being rolled back. In the UK, legal protections are being debated in the highest courts.
Wearing a Conner Ives Protect the Dolls shirt is a "wearable declaration."
It’s a way for people to signal their values without saying a word. As activist Charlie Craggs once put it, when everyone else is in a fancy dress and you’re in a white T-shirt with a message, everyone in the room reads it. It cuts through the noise.
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Actionable Ways to Actually Support the Cause
If you want to do more than just wear the shirt, or if the shirt is sold out (which happens a lot), here is how you can actually "protect the dolls":
- Donate Directly: Skip the middleman and give to Trans Lifeline or the Marsha P. Johnson Institute.
- Verify Your Merch: If you’re buying a slogan shirt, check the brand’s "About" page. If they aren't naming a specific charity and a percentage, they’re probably keeping the profit.
- Local Advocacy: Look up trans-led organizations in your specific city. Often, the smallest non-profits are the ones doing the most grueling, direct-action work.
- Educate Yourself on Ballroom History: Read up on icons like Crystal LaBeija or watch documentaries like Paris Is Burning. Understanding where the term "doll" comes from makes wearing the message much more meaningful.
Fashion is usually about looking good. But every once in a while, a designer like Conner Ives reminds us that it can also be about doing good. The "Protect the Dolls" tee isn't just a trend—it’s a fundraiser that actually worked.
To keep supporting the movement, you can keep an eye on the official Conner Ives website for restocks. They usually announce drops via Instagram, and they sell out within minutes. If you manage to snag one, you’re not just getting a piece of fashion history; you’re funding a lifeline for someone who might really need it.