When you're staring at a massive pile of dirt or a crumbling driveway, the last thing you want to think about is the geological nuances of New Hampshire's aggregate market. But honestly, if you're looking for Concord Sand & Gravel, you're probably already knee-deep in a project that requires more than just a trip to the local big-box hardware store.
It’s about the dirt. Specifically, the right kind of dirt.
There is a huge difference between the "fill" you find on Craigslist and the engineered products coming out of a professional pit. Most people don't realize that the gravel under their patio is actually the most important part of the entire build. If the drainage fails, the pavers shift. If the pavers shift, you’re out five figures. That’s why sourcing from a local staple like Concord Sand & Gravel matters more than just "supporting local"—it's about getting material that actually matches the local climate and soil conditions.
Why the Grade of Your Gravel Actually Matters
Gravel isn't just "rocks." That's a rookie mistake.
In the industry, we talk about "gradation." This is basically the mix of particle sizes in a load. If you get a load of 3/4-inch crushed stone, you expect it to be clean. If you get "crushed bank run," you’re getting a mix of sand, silt, and stones that packs down like concrete. You’ve got to know which one you need before the truck shows up and dumps ten tons of the wrong stuff on your lawn.
- Bank Run Gravel: This is the raw stuff. It’s dug straight out of the earth and screened to remove the big "head-sized" boulders. It’s great for sub-bases because it packs tight.
- Crushed Stone: This is blue or grey stone that’s been put through a mechanical crusher. It has sharp edges. Why does that matter? Because sharp edges lock together. Round stones (like pea gravel) roll like ball bearings. You don't want ball bearings under your shed.
- Washed Sand: Used for everything from pool liners to septic systems. If it’s not washed, the "fines" (tiny dust particles) will clog up your drainage.
The Logistics Nightmare Nobody Mentions
Shipping is the killer. If you find a "great deal" on gravel three towns over, the delivery fee will likely eat your savings. Most pits in the Concord area charge by the hour or by the mile. A tri-axle dump truck carries about 15 to 22 tons. If you only need five tons, you’re still paying for the big truck to make the trip.
You’ve got to calculate the "landed cost." That’s the price of the rock plus the cost to get it to your dirt. Sometimes, paying $5 more per ton at a closer yard saves you $200 in trucking.
The Local Landscape: Concord’s Geological Advantage
New Hampshire isn't called the Granite State for a laugh. The material coming out of local pits around Concord is exceptionally hard. Unlike the soft limestone you find in the Midwest, our granite-based aggregates don't break down into mush after three winters of freezing and thawing.
This is huge.
When water gets into the pores of a soft rock and freezes, the rock shatters. Over five years, your driveway turns into dust. Because the material from Concord Sand & Gravel sources is primarily igneous or metamorphic rock, it’s basically indestructible. It handles the brutal "freeze-thaw" cycle of a New England winter without blinking.
Understanding the "DOT Spec"
You might hear a contractor ask for "304.3" or "DOT gravel." Don't let the jargon intimidate you. The New Hampshire Department of Transportation (NHDOT) has very strict rules for what can be used on state roads.
If a pit says their gravel is "DOT Spec," it means it has been lab-tested. It won't hold too much water, and it won't settle unevenly. For a homeowner, using DOT-spec material is total overkill for a garden path, but it’s a lifesaver for a long-term driveway.
Pricing Realities in 2026
Let's talk money. Prices fluctuate based on fuel costs. Since those big loaders and crushers run on diesel, when gas prices spike, your gravel price spikes.
Generally, you’re looking at different price tiers:
- Low End: Fill dirt and unscreened sand. This is the "leftover" material.
- Mid Range: Bank run gravel and 1.5-inch crushed stone.
- High End: Washed decorative stone, stone dust, and specialty sands.
Expect to pay anywhere from $15 to $45 per ton depending on the refinement. And remember: a ton is smaller than you think. A standard yard of gravel weighs about 1.4 tons. If you’re measuring your project in cubic yards, make sure you do the math before ordering so you don't end up short.
What Most People Get Wrong About Delivery
I’ve seen it a hundred times. A homeowner orders a full load of stone, the truck pulls into the driveway, and—CRACK.
Standard asphalt driveways aren't built to hold a fully loaded tri-axle truck weighing 70,000 pounds. If you have a thin driveway or a septic tank near the surface, you need to tell the dispatcher before the truck leaves the yard. Professional outfits like Concord Sand & Gravel know how to navigate tight spaces, but they aren't psychics.
They also can't "spread" the gravel with the truck as easily as the YouTube videos make it look. Usually, it comes out in one big pile. Unless you have a tractor or a very strong back and a heavy-duty rake, you’re going to be looking at that mountain for a long time.
Environmental Stewardship
There’s a lot of talk about the "eyesore" of a gravel pit. But locally managed pits are actually highly regulated. In New Hampshire, the RSA 155-E law governs how pits must be reclaimed. Once the stone is gone, the land has to be restored. This often results in new wildlife habitats or even residential developments. Supporting a local quarry means supporting a business that is legally bound to take care of the local environment long after the last truck has left.
How to Order Like a Pro
If you want to sound like you know what you’re doing when you call the dispatch desk, follow these steps:
First, have your measurements ready. Not just "it's a big area," but "it's 20 feet by 30 feet at 4 inches deep." Use a calculator. Most suppliers have one on their website.
Second, specify the "end use." Tell them, "I'm building a base for a 12x12 shed." The dispatcher will immediately know if you need crushed stone or a compactable gravel mix. They do this all day; use their expertise.
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Third, ask about the "tailgate spread." If the driver is experienced and the overhead wires allow for it, they can slowly let the gravel out as they drive forward. It won't be perfect, but it’ll save you four hours of shoveling.
Common Misconceptions
People think "Stone Dust" is just for between pavers. Actually, in the Concord area, many people use it as a final "leveling" layer for horse stalls or even as a firm base for above-ground pools. It packs down almost as hard as concrete but still allows for a tiny bit of drainage.
Another myth: "Pea stone is good for driveways." No. Just no. Pea stone is round. It never locks. Driving on pea stone is like driving on marbles. Your tires will spin, and you’ll be frustrated. Keep the pea stone for the dog run or the decorative flower beds.
Essential Next Steps for Your Project
Before you pick up the phone or head out to the pit, take these three actions to ensure you don't waste money or ruin your property.
- Calculate your tonnage correctly: Take your (Length x Width x Depth in feet) and divide by 27 to get cubic yards. Then, multiply that by 1.5 to get the approximate tonnage needed. It is always better to have half a ton too much than half a ton too little.
- Check for overhead obstructions: Look up. Are there power lines or low-hanging branches where you want the truck to dump? A dump body can rise 20 feet into the air. If there's a wire in the way, the driver will refuse the drop for safety reasons.
- Mark your drop zone: Use a tarp or bright spray paint to show the driver exactly where you want the pile. This prevents confusion and keeps the material from getting mixed with your grass or mud, which makes it harder to move later.
Getting the right material from a reputable source like Concord Sand & Gravel isn't just a logistics task; it's the foundation of your project. If the base is solid, the rest is easy.