Common Types of Ivy Plant and Why Most Gardeners Keep Buying the Wrong Ones

Ivy is everywhere. It’s on the walls of prestigious universities, it’s trailing down the sides of trendy bookshelves in Brooklyn apartments, and frankly, it’s probably trying to swallow someone’s garage down the street from you right now. But here is the thing: most people just walk into a nursery and grab "the green one." That's a mistake. Honestly, if you don't know the specific types of ivy plant you’re bringing home, you’re either inviting a beautiful indoor companion or a leafy demon that will rip the mortar out of your brickwork.

Choosing the right variety isn't just about the "vibe." It’s about survival—both the plant's and your house's.

The Hedera Helix Obsession: English Ivy and Its Infinite Variations

When someone says "ivy," they are almost always talking about Hedera helix. This is the gold standard. It’s the classic English Ivy. But calling it just "English Ivy" is like calling every dog a "labrador." There are actually hundreds of cultivars.

Take the 'Needlepoint' ivy. Its leaves aren't that classic shield shape you see on college crests; they are thin, sharply pointed, and look almost like a bird's foot. It's delicate. It’s the kind of plant that looks great in a hanging basket because it doesn't get as heavy or aggressive as its cousins. Then you have 'Gold Child.' This one is a showstopper because it has these bright yellow margins that fade to white as the leaf gets older. It’s a literal bright spot for a dark corner of a room.

The Royal Horticultural Society actually recognizes dozens of these variations because they behave so differently. Some grow three inches a year. Some grow three feet. If you put a 'Hibernica' (Atlantic Ivy) indoors, you're going to have a bad time. It’s too big. Its leaves are the size of your hand. It wants to be outside, draped over a stone wall in the rain, not sitting next to your laptop.

🔗 Read more: Blue Tabby Maine Coon: What Most People Get Wrong About This Striking Coat

Why the Algerian Ivy Is the Secret King of Groundcover

If you live somewhere a bit warmer—think California or the South—you’ve likely seen Hedera canariensis. People call it Algerian Ivy or Canary Island Ivy.

It’s tougher than it looks. While English Ivy can sometimes get a bit "crispy" if the air is too dry, Algerian Ivy has this thick, leathery texture that feels like it could survive a mild apocalypse. The stems are often a deep, wine-red color, which looks incredible against the dark green leaves.

Actually, many landscapers use the 'Gloire de Marengo' cultivar. It has this creamy, variegated edge that makes a massive patch of groundcover look less like a monoculture and more like a curated garden. But a word of warning: it's fast. Like, "don't leave your bike on the lawn for a week" fast. It uses aerial rootlets to cling to anything. While it's beautiful, those rootlets produce a glue-like substance that can stain siding.

Non-Ivy "Ivies" That Everyone Gets Confused About

Let’s clear something up. Not everything with "ivy" in the name is a member of the Hedera genus. This is where most beginners get tripped up at the garden center.

💡 You might also like: Blue Bathroom Wall Tiles: What Most People Get Wrong About Color and Mood

1. Swedish Ivy (Plectranthus verticillatus): It isn't from Sweden and it isn't an ivy. It’s actually related to mint. You can tell because the stems are square if you pinch them. It’s a fantastic houseplant because it’s almost impossible to kill, but don't expect it to climb a wall. It just flops.
2. Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata): This is the stuff on Fenway Park. It’s actually related to grapes. Unlike true types of ivy plant, Boston Ivy is deciduous. It turns a screaming, fiery red in the fall and then drops all its leaves.
3. Devil’s Ivy (Epipremnum aureum): Better known as Pothos. If you want the "ivy look" inside but you have a "black thumb," get this. It’s not a Hedera, but it’s the easiest trailing plant on the planet.

The Indoors vs. Outdoors Dilemma

Keeping ivy alive inside is surprisingly harder than keeping it alive outside. Outside, nature handles the humidity. Inside, our HVAC systems suck the moisture out of the air, and that is a dinner bell for spider mites.

If you're looking for the best types of ivy plant for your desk, look for the "miniatures." Cultivars like 'Duckfoot' or 'Spetchley' are tiny. 'Spetchley' has leaves that are barely half an inch wide. It grows so slowly that you won't feel like you're living in Jumanji after a month.

For outdoor walls, you have to consider the structure. Experts like those at the University of New Hampshire Extension often point out that ivy doesn't actually "eat" brick, but if your mortar is already crumbling, the roots will find those cracks and expand them. If you have a modern, solid brick home, you're probably fine. If you have an 1890s farmhouse with original lime mortar? Keep the ivy on a trellis, not the house.

Maintenance: The Stuff Nobody Tells You

You have to prune. Regularly.

📖 Related: BJ's Restaurant & Brewhouse Superstition Springs Menu: What to Order Right Now

Ivy has two distinct life stages: juvenile and adult. Most of what we buy is the juvenile stage—trailing vines, lobed leaves, no flowers. If it climbs high enough and gets enough light, it hits the adult stage. The leaves turn into heart shapes (no lobes), and it starts producing woody stems and greenish-yellow flowers. Once it hits the adult stage, it stops "vining" and starts "clumping."

If you want that sleek, trailing look, you have to keep it in its juvenile state by pruning the aggressive woody growth.

Also, watch the water. Ivy likes to be moist but hates "wet feet." In the winter, let the top inch of soil dry out. If the leaves start turning brown and crispy at the edges, it’s usually not underwatering—it’s actually a lack of humidity or a sign of root rot from overwatering. I know, it’s counterintuitive. Gardening is weird like that.

Strategic Next Steps for Your Ivy Collection

Stop buying generic plants. If you want to actually succeed with these, you need a plan.

• Check your zone: If you’re in USDA Zone 4 or lower, most ivies will die outside in winter. Stick to indoor pots or look specifically for 'Thorndale' or 'Baltica,' which are bred for cold hardiness.
• The Finger Test: Before watering any indoor ivy, stick your finger in the soil up to the second knuckle. If it feels even slightly damp, wait two days.
• Pest Prevention: Buy a spray bottle. Mist your indoor ivy twice a week. Spider mites hate moisture, and this simple habit saves more ivy plants than any fertilizer ever could.
• Light Check: Variegated types (the ones with white or yellow) need more light than solid green ones. If your 'Gold Child' is turning all green, it’s "reverting" because it’s starving for sun. Move it closer to a window.

Ivy is a commitment. It’s a living architectural element that can define a space if you treat it with a bit of respect and a pair of sharp pruning shears.