You’ve probably driven past it. Most people do. They’re usually hurrying toward the jagged peaks of Eryri (Snowdonia) or the postcard-perfect castle walls of Conwy, leaving North Wales Colwyn Bay as a blurry collection of Victorian rooftops in the rearview mirror. It’s been the underdog of the coast for decades. Honestly, for a long time, that reputation was kinda earned. But things have shifted.
The town isn't just a place where people go to retire anymore. It’s changed.
The Porth Eirias Effect and the Coastal Shift
If you haven't been to Colwyn Bay in the last five or six years, the waterfront will shock you. It used to be a bit... bleak. Now? There's this massive multi-million pound sweep of golden sand that stays put, thanks to some heavy-duty coastal engineering and a massive influx of dredged sand.
At the heart of this is Porth Eirias. It’s a sleek, modern hub that houses Bryn Williams’ restaurant. Williams is a big deal in the culinary world—straight out of Denbigh, worked under Marco Pierre White and Michel Roux Jr.—and putting his name on a bistro here was a massive vote of confidence. It’s not stuffy, though. You can walk in with sandy boots, grab a coffee, or sit down for some of the best local seafood in the country.
The beach itself is huge. Even on a busy July Saturday, you aren't fighting for elbow room like you are in Llandudno or Rhyl. It’s functional. You’ll see groups of sea swimmers (the "Bluetits" are a local fixture) hitting the water year-round, regardless of how grey the Irish Sea looks.
Why the pier matters (and why it’s different now)
The story of the Victoria Pier is a bit of a local tragedy, or at least it was. It sat rotting for years, a skeletal eyesore that sparked endless council debates and legal battles. Most of it was eventually dismantled because it was literally falling into the sea.
But they didn't just scrap it.
👉 See also: Red Bank Battlefield Park: Why This Small Jersey Bluff Actually Changed the Revolution
A shorter, truncated "reimagined" pier opened in 2021. It’s small. It’s modest. But it’s beautiful. It features restored art deco panels and ironwork from the original structure. It doesn't try to be Blackpool. It’s a quiet place to stand and look back at the town, and it signals that Colwyn Bay is finally comfortable with its identity: a mix of heritage and modern practicality.
Beyond the Promenade: The Real Heart of the Town
Move away from the sea and you hit the town center. It’s a bit of a maze. You’ve got the traditional high street, which, like most UK high streets, has seen better days, but the independent scene is actually clawing its way back.
Station Road and Abergele Road are where you find the soul of the place. There’s a specific vibe here—a bit rugged, very Welsh, and surprisingly creative. You’ll find comic book shops, old-school butchers, and independent cafes like The Bay View Shopping Centre (which is more "local hub" than "mega mall").
The Welsh Mountain Zoo
You can't talk about North Wales Colwyn Bay without mentioning the zoo. It’s perched high on the hill in Upper Colwyn Bay. It is steep. Seriously, wear good shoes.
Founded in 1963 by the Jackson family, the Welsh Mountain Zoo isn't your typical flat, paved safari park. It’s 37 acres of wooded hillside. Because of the elevation, you get these weirdly surreal views where you’re looking at a Snow Leopard with the entire coastline of the Irish Sea as a backdrop. They do a lot of conservation work with Red Squirrels, which are native to the nearby Anglesey, and their sea lion presentations are a staple for every kid who grew up in Conwy County.
The Sporting Hub: More Than Just a Park
Eirias Park is the town's literal lungs. It’s 50 acres of greenery, but it’s also the national "Colwyn Leisure Centre" and the home of Welsh U20s Rugby.
✨ Don't miss: Why the Map of Colorado USA Is Way More Complicated Than a Simple Rectangle
- Rugby: When the U20s play at Stadiwm SNWF, the town goes electric. The atmosphere is intimate and loud.
- Concerts: It’s become the go-to spot for big outdoor gigs. We’re talking Tom Jones, Bryan Adams, and Lionel Richie.
- The Boating Lake: It’s a bit old-fashioned, sure, but it’s a calm contrast to the high-energy sports facilities nearby.
People think of Colwyn Bay as a quiet town, but when there’s a match on or a concert, the population effectively doubles. The logistics are surprisingly good for a town this size, mainly because the A55 dual carriageway cuts right through it.
Addressing the "Boring" Stereotype
Let’s be real. Colwyn Bay spent decades in the shadow of Llandudno, which has the Great Orme and the fancy hotels. Colwyn Bay was the place you lived if you worked in Llandudno.
But that’s changed because Llandudno is essentially a museum—beautiful, but frozen in the Victorian era. Colwyn Bay feels more "lived in." It’s grittier in some places, sure, but it’s also where the investment is happening. The relocation of over 500 Conwy County Borough Council staff to a new flagship office in the town center brought a lot of daytime footfall that didn't exist ten years ago. It’s a working town.
The Microbrewery Scene
If you want to see the "new" Colwyn Bay, look at the beer. The town has become a bit of a mini-hub for craft ales. The Sheldon’s bar, located in an old stationery warehouse, is a perfect example. It kept the original features but serves modern food and drink. It’s where the locals actually go. There’s a sense of pride in these places that feels authentic, not manufactured for tourists.
Nature and the "Secret" Gardens
If you head slightly inland, you hit Pwllycrochan Woods. These woods are old—part of a manor estate. There are trails that weave all the way up the hill, and honestly, even most locals forget how lucky they are to have a literal ancient woodland within walking distance of the shops.
Then there’s Bodnant Garden. Okay, technically it’s a short drive away in the Conwy Valley, but Colwyn Bay is the primary gateway to it. It’s a National Trust site and world-famous for its Laburnum Arch. If you’re in the area in late May or early June, you basically have to go. It’s non-negotiable.
🔗 Read more: Bryce Canyon National Park: What People Actually Get Wrong About the Hoodoos
Getting Around and Staying Put
The A55 (North Wales Expressway) is the blessing and the curse of North Wales Colwyn Bay. It makes getting here from Manchester or Liverpool incredibly easy—about an hour and fifteen minutes if the traffic behaves.
The train station is right in the middle of town. You can jump on a direct train from London Euston and be standing on the Colwyn Bay platform in under three hours. That accessibility is why you’re seeing more young professionals move here, especially with the rise of remote work. Why live in a cramped flat in a city when you can have a Victorian semi-detached house near the sea for a fraction of the price?
Practical Realities
- Parking: The promenade has plenty of pay-and-display, but it fills up fast on sunny days. Use the underground parking at Porth Eirias if you’re heading to the beach.
- Weather: It’s the Irish Sea. It rains. A lot. But the town actually looks quite beautiful in the mist—very "noir."
- Language: You’ll hear Welsh spoken in the shops. Most people are bilingual. A "Diolch" (thanks) goes a long way, but don't worry, everyone speaks English.
The Future of the Bay
There’s still work to do. Some parts of the town center still look tired. The loss of the original pier left a scar that hasn't entirely healed for the older generation. But the momentum is undeniable.
Colwyn Bay isn't trying to be a fancy resort anymore. It’s trying to be a great place to live that happens to have a world-class beach and a zoo. That’s a much more sustainable model than relying on seasonal tourism.
If you’re planning a trip to North Wales, don't just use the Bay as a pit stop for petrol. Stop. Get a coffee at Porth Eirias. Walk the coastal path toward Rhos-on-Sea (the neighboring village which is practically joined at the hip to Colwyn Bay). Check out the murals under the bridges that celebrate the town’s history.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
- Check the Tide Tables: The beach at Colwyn Bay is massive at low tide, but the water comes right up to the rocks at high tide. If you want a long walk, time it for the ebb.
- Book Bryn Williams in Advance: If you want to eat at the Porth Eirias bistro on a weekend, don't just show up. It’s popular for a reason.
- Visit Rhos-on-Sea: Walk the three-mile promenade from Colwyn Bay to Rhos. Stop at the tiny St. Trillo’s Chapel—the smallest church in Britain—which seats about six people.
- Use the "Bay Conwy" App: The local council often updates events and parking availability through their digital platforms.
- Explore the Mountain Zoo Early: Get there when it opens at 9:30 AM. The animals are most active, and you’ll avoid the steepest part of the midday heat (on the three days a year it's actually hot).
Colwyn Bay is a place that rewards people who actually get out of their cars. It’s a town of layers. It’s a town that finally stopped apologizing for what it isn't and started celebrating what it actually is.
Next Steps for Your Trip Planning:
Check the official Welsh Mountain Zoo website for seasonal talk times to ensure you don't miss the red panda feedings, and look into the "SailRail" tickets if you are coming from Ireland or England for significant savings on travel. If you are staying overnight, look for guesthouses in the West End for a quieter experience compared to the town center.