Cole's French Dip: What Most People Get Wrong About LA's Oldest Bar

Cole's French Dip: What Most People Get Wrong About LA's Oldest Bar

Walk into the Pacific Electric Building on 6th and Main, and the first thing that hits you isn't the smell of roasted beef. It’s the air. It feels heavy, like it’s been trapped in the dark since the Taft administration.

Cole's French Dip doesn't just look old; it’s basically a time capsule with a liquor license. Established in 1908 by Henry Cole, this place has outlasted world wars, Prohibition, and the rise and fall of the actual streetcars that used to drop 100,000 people a day at its doorstep.

Honestly, the "is it closing or isn't it?" saga of late 2025 and early 2026 has been a total rollercoaster for locals. One week it’s shuttering forever; the next, the lease is extended. As of right now, in January 2026, the doors are still swinging, but the vibe is definitely "catch it while you can."

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The Great Sandwich War: Cole's vs. Philippe’s

You can't talk about Cole's without mentioning the century-old beef with Philippe The Original. Both claim they invented the French Dip in 1908.

Philippe’s story usually involves a "happy accident" where a roll was dropped into a pan of meat juice. Cole’s version is a bit more... dental. Legend says Henry Cole’s chef, Jack Garlinghouse, dipped the bread in au jus to soften it for a regular customer who had sensitive gums.

Whether you believe the "sore gums" theory or the "clumsy chef" theory, the experience at Cole’s is fundamentally different. At Philippe’s, they dip the bread for you. At Cole’s, you’re the master of your own destiny. They give you a little cup of that 12-hour braised jus, and you dunk at your own risk.

What’s actually on the plate?

The menu is pretty straightforward, but don't let the simplicity fool you. You've got:

  • The Roast Beef Dip: USDA Prime beef, thinly sliced. It’s the classic.
  • The Pastrami Dip: Salty, peppery, and arguably the best thing they make.
  • The "Atomic" Pickles: These things are dangerous. They're marinated with habanero and jalapeño. One bite will clear your sinuses; two might ruin your afternoon.
  • Garlic Fries: Loaded with actual chunks of garlic. Do not plan on kissing anyone for at least 48 hours.

The prices have definitely crept up over the years—expect to pay around $20+ for a combo now—but you’re paying for the mahogany bar and the ghosts of 1920s gangsters.

More Than Just a Sandwich Shop

Cole's isn't just a restaurant. It’s the oldest public house in Los Angeles. During Prohibition, it stayed afloat by operating as a speakeasy. They even have Mickey Cohen’s favorite booth. Yes, the Mickey Cohen. You can sit there and imagine you're plotting a heist while you chew on a lamb dip.

The bar itself is a masterpiece of dark wood and brass. They take their cocktails seriously here. The Old Fashioned is the gold standard, but their Irish Coffee—available hot or chilled with cold brew—is what usually keeps people in those red leather booths until 2 a.m.

The Mystery of The Varnish

For a long time, the real secret was The Varnish. Tucked behind an unmarked door at the back of Cole's, this was the bar that launched L.A.’s modern cocktail revival. It was tiny, quiet, and incredibly precise.

Sadly, The Varnish officially shuttered in 2024, though it occasionally resurfaces as a pop-up. Even without it, the main bar at Cole’s still carries that "secret society" energy. It’s the kind of place where the bartenders actually know how to use a jigger and won't look at you funny if you order a Sazerac.

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The 2026 Reality: Is it Staying?

The recent news hasn't been all sunshine. The owner, Cedd Moses (the guy behind Pouring With Heart), has been vocal about the struggles of running a historic landmark in the current DTLA climate. Rising costs and the general "roughness" of the Historic Core have made things tricky.

There were several "final" closing dates announced throughout late 2025. But thanks to a massive surge in customers and some last-minute negotiations, the closing date was pushed to January 31, 2026.

It’s a weird time to visit. There’s a mix of nostalgia and urgency. You’ll see people who haven't been in ten years sitting next to young cocktail nerds taking photos of the floor tiles. The floor, by the way, is original 1908 penny tile. If those tiles could talk, they’d probably tell you to order another round of "Atomic" pickles and shut up.

Practical Tips for Visiting Now

  1. Parking is a nightmare. Just use a rideshare. There’s no free parking, and the nearby lots will charge you a kidney.
  2. The "Atomic" warning is real. People underestimate the mustard and the pickles. Start small.
  3. Check the hours. Currently, they're open 11 a.m. to midnight most days, with late-night hours (until 2 a.m.) on Thursday through Saturday.
  4. Sit at the bar. The booths are cool, but the bar is where the history is. Look for the names of the L.A. Stock Exchange traders on the plaque above the bottles.

Why It Still Matters

In a city that loves to tear down anything older than a decade to build "luxury" condos, Cole’s is a rare survivor. It’s one of the few places where you can see the actual DNA of Los Angeles.

Whether they actually invented the French Dip or not is sort of irrelevant at this point. What matters is that you can still sit in a booth that has been there for over a century, eating a sandwich that hasn't changed its recipe since your great-grandfather was a kid.

If this really is the end of the line for Cole's in the Pacific Electric Building, Los Angeles is losing more than just a sandwich shop. It's losing its living room.

Go now. Order the Pastrami Dip, get it double-dipped, and spend twenty minutes just looking at the old black-and-white photos on the walls.

To make the most of your visit, aim for a weekday afternoon to avoid the weekend crowds, and make sure to ask the bartender about the "direct line" phone to the stock exchange—it's one of those bits of bar lore that makes the drink taste just a little bit better.