You think of Hong Kong and you probably see neon. You see the claustrophobic crush of Causeway Bay or the vertical insanity of Central. But honestly, if you live here long enough, you start craving the exact opposite of a skyscraper. That is where Clear Water Bay comes in. It is this massive, jagged peninsula in the New Territories that feels like someone took a slice of the Mediterranean and dropped it into the South China Sea.
It's quiet.
Well, quiet for Hong Kong standards, anyway. While everyone else is fighting for a square inch of sand at Repulse Bay or getting elbowed on the Peak Tram, the locals who actually know what’s up are heading toward the Sai Kung District. Clear Water Bay isn't just one beach; it’s a whole ecosystem of rugged country parks, hidden coves, and some of the most expensive real estate on the planet that somehow manages to look humble because it's buried in bougainvillea.
Why Clear Water Bay Actually Matters
Most people get this place wrong. They think it's just a spot for a quick dip. But if you look at the geography, the Clear Water Bay Country Park covers about 615 hectares. It acts as a massive green lung for the eastern side of the territory. The rock here is volcanic. We're talking about ancient geological formations that date back to the Mesozoic era, specifically the hexagonal volcanic columns that you’ll see if you venture toward the High Island Reservoir nearby, though the peninsula itself has its own unique, sharp ridges.
There is a specific kind of light you get here in the late afternoon. Because the peninsula faces east and south, the sunsets don't hit the water directly, but they turn the sky this weird, bruised purple color over the High Junk Peak. It’s moody. It’s dramatic. It’s exactly what you need when the city feels like it's closing in on you.
The Beach Situation: First vs. Second
You’ve got two main public beaches here, unimaginatively named Clear Water Bay First Beach and Second Beach.
First Beach is smaller. It’s got these jagged rocks at the edges and feels a bit more "local." It’s a bit of a hike down the stairs, which keeps the lazier crowds away. If you want to actually hear the waves instead of a portable speaker playing C-pop, this is your spot.
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Second Beach is the "famous" one. It’s bigger, has better facilities, and is generally where the buses drop everyone off. It’s a Grade 1 water quality beach, which is a big deal in a shipping hub like Hong Kong. The Environmental Protection Department (EPD) monitors this stuff weekly. You can actually see your feet when you’re chest-deep in the water. That sounds like a low bar, but if you’ve ever been to some of the muddier stretches in the western New Territories, you’ll realize why this place is a treasure.
The sand is fine. It’s not that coarse, gravelly stuff you find in parts of Europe. It’s soft, pale, and incredibly inviting. But be warned: on a public holiday, it turns into a sea of blue umbrellas.
High Junk Peak: The Hike That Ruins All Other Hikes
If you’re coming to Clear Water Bay just to sit on the sand, you’re doing it wrong. You need to hike High Junk Peak (Tiu Yue Yung).
It is one of the "Three Sharp Peaks of Hong Kong." It looks terrifying from a distance—like a shark tooth sticking straight out of the earth. But here’s the secret: it looks much harder than it actually is. The trail is well-marked. You start near Ng Fai Tin and wind your way up through dense scrub before the canopy opens up and you realize you’re walking along a ridgeline with a 360-degree view of the South China Sea on one side and the sprawling luxury villas of the peninsula on the other.
- Distance: Roughly 6.4km if you do the standard route.
- Difficulty: Moderate, but there are some "fake" summits that will break your heart before you hit the real one.
- The View: You can see the Ninepin Group islands in the distance. These are uninhabited volcanic outcrops that look like something out of King Kong.
There is a section of the trail that gets pretty steep and gravelly. If you have bad knees, bring poles. If you’re wearing flip-flops, don't even try it. I’ve seen people trying to summit in Gucci loafers and it never ends well. The descent toward Po Toi O is the best part because you know there is cold beer and salty squid waiting for you at the bottom.
The Po Toi O Factor
At the very tip of the peninsula lies Po Toi O. It’s a tiny fishing village that time basically forgot, tucked into a deep, protected cove. It is the antithesis of the IFC Mall.
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You’ll see elderly residents drying fish on wooden racks in the sun. The smell hits you first—shrimp paste, salt air, and diesel from the sampans. It’s authentic. There are two main seafood restaurants here, Fat Kee and Seafood Chef. Honestly? They’re both good. You pick your dinner from the tanks outside. Mantis shrimp with salt and pepper is the move here. Or the razor clams with garlic and vermicelli.
The village is also home to a Hung Shing Temple, built in 1682. Hung Shing was a government official in the Tang Dynasty who was later deified as a god who protects fishermen and maritime traders. It’s a small, smoky space filled with giant incense coils. It reminds you that before Hong Kong was a financial titan, it was just a collection of people trying not to get drowned by the sea.
The Golf Course You Can’t Play (Probably)
Perched on the cliffs above Po Toi O is The Clear Water Bay Golf & Country Club. It’s one of the most stunning courses in the world—often compared to Pebble Beach. It’s also incredibly exclusive. Unless you’re a member or a guest of one, you’re mostly just going to be looking at the manicured greens from the hiking trail. It adds this weird layer of "billionaire chic" to an area that is otherwise quite rugged and wild.
The Secret Spots: Tai Tam Wan and Beyond
If you want to escape the crowds at the main beaches, you have to work for it. There are small paths that lead down to rocky outcrops where the water is even clearer.
Little Palm Beach (Hang Hau Wing Lung Road) is a favorite for windsurfers and kayakers. It’s not a gazetted beach, meaning there are no lifeguards and the facilities are non-existent. But that’s the point. It’s where people go to launch paddleboards and explore the coastline. If you head out on a kayak, you can reach small sea caves and deserted strips of sand that don't even have names on Google Maps.
Logistics: How to Actually Get There
Getting to Clear Water Bay is the main reason it stays relatively "undiscovered" by the short-stay tourist crowd. There is no MTR station in the heart of the bay. You have to commit.
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- The Green Minibus 103M: This runs from Tseung Kwan O MTR station. It’s fast, the drivers drive like they’re in an action movie, and it’ll drop you right at the beach.
- Bus 91: This leaves from Diamond Hill MTR. It’s a double-decker, so try to snag a front-row seat on the top deck for the winding road views. It’s spectacular.
- The Taxi Move: If you’re coming from Central or Kowloon, just take a taxi or an Uber to Clear Water Bay Second Beach. It’ll cost you about 150-200 HKD, but it saves you an hour of sweating on public transport.
Pro tip: Getting out of Clear Water Bay on a Sunday at 5:00 PM is a nightmare. The queue for the minibus can be 50 people deep. Either leave at 3:00 PM or stay for dinner in Po Toi O and leave after 8:00 PM when the traffic has died down.
What Most People Get Wrong
People think Hong Kong nature is "tame." They think because there’s a 5G signal on the mountain top, it’s not real wilderness. That’s a mistake.
The weather in Clear Water Bay can flip in twenty minutes. I’ve been on High Junk Peak when a sea mist rolled in and suddenly I couldn't see five feet in front of me. Also, the wildlife is real. You’ve got wild boars—big ones. They’re usually harmless if you leave them alone, but don't go trying to take a selfie with a 200-pound hog. They will go through your beach bag if you leave food in it. I’ve seen a boar run off with a bag of Garden Brand bread while a terrified family looked on.
The Nuance of Living Here
Clear Water Bay is one of the most prestigious residential addresses in the city. But unlike the Peak, which is all about status and "old money" formality, Clear Water Bay attracts a more outdoorsy, "stealth wealth" crowd. You’ll see Ferraris parked next to beat-up Land Rovers covered in mud. It’s a place for people who want to own a boat, keep a large dog, and actually see the stars at night.
The air quality is significantly better here. When the city is shrouded in smog, the easterly winds often keep Clear Water Bay crisp and blue.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
If you are planning a trip, don't just "wing it." Do this:
- Check the EPD Water Quality: Look at the HK Beach Water Quality website before you leave. If it’s been raining heavily, the grade might drop to 2 or 3 due to runoff.
- Pack for "No Stores": Once you are on the hiking trails or at the smaller coves, there is nothing. No vending machines, no 7-Eleven. Carry at least 1.5 liters of water per person.
- Download 'Enjoy Hiking': This is the official app from the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department (AFCD). It works offline and is a lifesaver for navigating the tangles of trails around the peninsula.
- Start at Ng Fai Tin: If you want the best views with the least amount of uphill slog, start your hike here and finish at the beach for a swim. It’s the superior direction.
- Book Po Toi O Seafood: If you’re going on a weekend, call ahead. These places get packed with local families and the "junk boat" crowd who moor their yachts in the bay and come ashore to eat.
Clear Water Bay represents the "other" Hong Kong. It’s the version of the city that doesn't care about the Hang Seng Index or the latest Michelin-starred pop-up. It’s just rock, salt, and endless green. It’s the place that reminds you why this tiny territory is one of the most geographically diverse spots on the planet. Go on a Tuesday morning if you can. You’ll have the whole South China Sea to yourself.