You think your washing machine is clean because it literally spends its entire life full of soap and water. It’s a logical thought. But it’s wrong. Honestly, if you haven't scrubbed the internals of that machine in the last six months, it’s probably a breeding ground for biofilm and "scrud"—that gross, waxy buildup of undissolved detergent and skin cells.
Cleaning your washer machine isn't just about making the drum look shiny. It’s about preventing that weird, damp-basement smell that clings to your "clean" towels.
I’ve seen machines that look pristine on the outside but are absolutely caked in gray sludge behind the drum. It’s localized humidity at its worst. Modern high-efficiency (HE) machines are the biggest culprits here because they use less water, meaning they don't always flush out the gunk as well as the old-school water-wasters did.
The Science of Why Washers Get Gross
Bacteria love laundry rooms. Specifically, they love the "outer tub" of your machine—the part you can't see. A study published in Applied and Environmental Microbiology found that domestic washing machines can actually serve as reservoirs for antibiotic-resistant bacteria. That’s not to scare you, but it’s a reality of lukewarm wash cycles. Most of us wash on "eco" or "cold" settings now to save energy. While that's great for the planet and your electric bill, it’s a paradise for germs.
Cold water doesn't kill bacteria. It just gives them a nice bath.
Then there’s the detergent issue. We use too much. Way too much. If you see suds during the rinse cycle, you’re overdoing it. That excess soap doesn't just disappear; it turns into a sticky film that traps lint and hair. This creates a nutrient-rich layer for mold to feast on. Repair technicians often call this "scrud." It’s a mixture of fabric softener and detergent that solidifies into a clay-like substance.
Front Loaders vs. Top Loaders: Different Problems
If you own a front loader, your main enemy is the gasket. That rubber ring around the door? It’s basically a moisture trap. Water sits in the folds, and because the door creates an airtight seal, it never dries out. You’ve probably seen those black spots. That’s mold.
Top loaders have it a bit easier with the airflow, but they have a hidden villain: the agitator. If your machine has a central pillar, the space underneath it is a secret cavern for grime.
How to Clean Your Washer Machine Properly
Forget those "life hacks" involving just a cup of lemon juice. You need something that actually breaks down the chemistry of the buildup.
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The Vinegar and Baking Soda Myth
People love the fizz. You mix vinegar and baking soda, it bubbles, and you feel like a scientist. But here’s the thing: vinegar is an acid and baking soda is a base. When you mix them, they mostly just neutralize each other into salty water. To actually clean your washer machine, you need to use them sequentially, not simultaneously. Or, better yet, use a dedicated cleaner or bleach.
Step 1: The High-Heat Purge
Start by setting your machine to the hottest possible setting. Usually, this is labeled "Heavy Duty" or "Sanitize." If your machine has a "Clean Washer" cycle, use that.
Add two cups of white vinegar directly into the drum. The acidity helps break down the hard water minerals (limescale) that act as an anchor for the slime. Run the full cycle. Don't put clothes in. Just the water and the vinegar.
Step 2: The Scrub Down
Once that cycle finishes, grab a microfiber cloth and a bowl of warm water with a splash of dish soap. You need to hit the manual spots:
- The Gasket: Pull back the rubber folds. You’ll likely find hair, coins, or a stray sock. Wipe it until the cloth comes back clean.
- The Dispenser Drawer: Most people don't realize these pop out. Pull it all the way out. You’ll probably see mold growing in the ceiling of the drawer compartment. Scrub it.
- The Filter: This is the big one. Most front loaders have a small door at the bottom. Open it, put a towel down (water will come out), and unscrew the filter. Prepare yourself. It’s usually full of grey sludge and lint.
Step 3: The Bleach Sanitize
Now that the scale is gone, you need to kill the bio-film. Run a second hot cycle, but this time use one cup of liquid chlorine bleach.
Warning: Never mix bleach and vinegar. It creates chlorine gas, which is toxic. This is why we do two separate cycles with a rinse in between. The bleach is the heavy hitter that kills the mold spores and bacteria that the vinegar loosened up.
Maintenance Habits That Actually Work
Cleaning once a year isn't enough. You have to change how you use the machine daily.
Leave the Door Open
This is the simplest, most effective thing you can do. When the cycle ends, leave the door ajar. If you have a front loader, leave it wide open for at least four hours. If you have kids or pets and worry about them climbing in, even a two-inch crack makes a massive difference in airflow.
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Stop Using Fabric Softener
This might be controversial, but fabric softener is basically liquid fat. It coats the fibers of your clothes to make them feel soft, but it also coats the inside of your machine. It’s the primary ingredient in "scrud." Switch to wool dryer balls or a splash of vinegar in the softener compartment if you want softer clothes without the sludge.
The "Right" Amount of Detergent
Look at the lines in the cap. You probably only need two tablespoons of HE detergent for a standard load. If you use pods, one is almost always enough. Using three pods for a "stinky" load just makes the machine stinkier in the long run because it can't rinse all that soap away.
Signs Your Machine Needs a Deep Clean
- The "Locker Room" Smell: If your laundry smells fine when it's wet but sour once it dries, your machine is dirty.
- Gray Flakes: If you see small, waxy gray bits on your clothes, that’s the internal buildup flaking off.
- Black Spots on Gasket: That’s mold. It’s already rooted in the rubber.
- Longer Cycle Times: If your machine’s sensors think it’s still dirty, it might keep adding rinse cycles, wasting water and time.
Technical Maintenance: The Drain Pump Filter
Most people ignore the drain pump filter until the machine stops draining and displays an "OE" or "Sud" error code. This filter is designed to catch the stuff that shouldn't go into your pipes—keys, bobby pins, lint clumps.
If you don't clean it, the pump has to work harder. Eventually, it burns out. That’s a $300 repair for a part that takes five minutes to clean.
Find the access panel. It’s usually on the bottom front right. Keep a shallow tray nearby because about a liter of stagnant, smelly water will pour out when you unscrew that plug. If it’s been years, be prepared for the smell. It’s not pleasant. Wash the plastic mesh filter under the sink and screw it back in tight.
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Moving Forward With a Clean Machine
You don't need expensive, specialty "cleaning tablets" every week, though they can be convenient if you're busy. The vinegar/bleach method is cheaper and often more effective because of the volume of liquid used.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Check your gasket today. Pull the rubber back and see what's living there. If it's slimy, perform the scrub-down immediately.
- Locate your filter. Check your manual or Google your model number to find where the drain filter is. Empty it this weekend.
- Audit your detergent use. Next time you do laundry, use exactly half of what you normally use. See if the clothes come out just as clean. Spoiler: they usually do.
- Prop the door. Make it a habit. No exceptions.
Keeping your washer clean isn't just about aesthetics. It extends the life of the appliance by years. It prevents the heating element from burning out due to scale buildup and keeps the drum bearings from corroding. Most importantly, it ensures that when you put "dirty" clothes in, they actually come out clean, not just "perfumed."