If you show up in Amsterdam on December 25th expecting the peak of the holiday season, you’re gonna be a little confused. Most of the country is already hungover from the real party that happened weeks ago. It’s a common mistake. People think Christmas in the Netherlands is just like the UK or the US but with more windmills and better cheese.
Actually, it’s split in two.
The Dutch have this unique, slightly chaotic way of handling the holidays that involves a Spanish bishop, a lot of spiced cookies, and two distinct "Christmas days." If you aren't prepared for the Sinterklaas vs. Kerstmis divide, you’ll miss the best parts of the winter season.
The Sinterklaas Factor: The "Real" Dutch Christmas?
Most foreigners don't realize that for Dutch kids, December 5th is the main event. This is Pakjesavond (presents evening).
Sinterklaas isn't Santa Claus. Well, he’s the original inspiration for him, but they’re definitely not the same guy. Sinterklaas arrives in mid-November on a steamboat from Spain. He rides a white horse named Amerigo (or Ozosnel, depending on who you ask lately) over the rooftops.
Honestly, the atmosphere during the run-up to December 5th is electric. You’ll see "Pepernoten" shops popping up everywhere. These are tiny, crunchy ginger-style cookies that are basically addictive. If you're walking through a city like Utrecht or Haarlem in late November, the air literally smells like cinnamon and speculaas.
One thing that surprises people is the "Surprise" (pronounced the French way, sur-preeze). Adults don't just buy a gift and wrap it. They spend hours—sometimes days—handcrafting an elaborate, often mocking, container for the gift. You might get a gift hidden inside a giant papier-mâché head of yourself, or buried in a bowl of slimy oatmeal. It’s accompanied by a poem that gently roasts your failures over the past year. It’s brutal. It’s hilarious. It’s very Dutch.
Understanding the Two Days of Christmas in the Netherlands
Once Sinterklaas leaves on December 6th, the country pivots. The "Kerstboom" (Christmas tree) comes out immediately. But don't expect a frantic shopping spree.
Christmas in the Netherlands is officially celebrated over two days: Eerste Kerstdag (December 25th) and Tweede Kerstdag (December 26th).
First Christmas Day (December 25)
This is usually a strictly family affair. Unlike the rowdy pub crawls you might see in other countries, the Dutch tend to hunker down. If you’re a tourist, be warned: many smaller shops and even some restaurants in residential areas will be shut tight.
The food isn't always a turkey. A huge tradition here is "Gourmetten."
Imagine a large electric hot plate in the middle of the table. Everyone has their own tiny little frying pan. You get platters of miniature meats, vegetables, and tiny quail eggs, and you cook your own dinner in these little pans. It’s social. It’s slow. Your house will smell like fried onions for three days. But honestly, it’s the most authentic way to experience a Dutch Christmas.
Second Christmas Day (December 26)
While the UK has Boxing Day sales, the Dutch use the 26th as a "bonus" Christmas. It’s often spent visiting the side of the family you didn't see the day before. Or, quite commonly, people head to massive furniture malls (woonboulevards) or garden centers. It sounds weird, but places like Intratuin turn into massive winter wonderlands that attract thousands of people just for the vibes.
The Light Festivals and Winter Markets
If you want the "Instagrammable" version of Christmas in the Netherlands, you have to look at the lights.
The Amsterdam Light Festival is the heavy hitter here. From late November through January, international artists install massive light sculptures along the canals. You’ve basically got two choices: walk the route or take a boat. Take the boat. Seeing the light reflect off the water while you’re huddled under a blanket with a plastic cup of Glühwein is one of those rare moments that actually lives up to the hype.
Beyond Amsterdam, there are the markets. Now, let’s be real: Dutch Christmas markets usually aren't as famous as the German ones. But Valkenburg is the exception.
Located in the south of Limburg, Valkenburg hosts a Christmas market inside limestone caves (the Gemeentegrot and Fluweelengrot). It’s underground. It’s dark. It’s slightly damp. And it’s incredibly cool. Because the caves stay at a constant temperature, it’s actually warmer inside than outside in the Dutch wind.
- Dordrecht: Hosts one of the largest markets, sprawling through the historic city center.
- Deventer: Known for the Dickens Festival. Over 900 characters from Charles Dickens' novels roam the streets. It’s surreal and very crowded, so go early.
- Magisch Maastricht: Vrijthof square turns into a massive ice rink with a Ferris wheel.
What to Eat (Beyond the Gourmetten)
You can’t talk about this season without mentioning the fat content. The Dutch winter diet is designed to survive North Sea winds.
Oliebollen are the kings of December. They are deep-fried dough balls, usually dusted with an aggressive amount of powdered sugar. You’ll see "Oliebollenkramen" (trailers) parked on street corners. Pro tip: Get the ones with raisins (krenten). They stay moist longer. You eat these throughout December, but they are the mandatory food for New Year's Eve (Oud en Nieuw).
Then there's Kerststol. This is a heavy, fruity bread with a thick cylinder of almond paste (amandelspijs) running through the middle. A proper slice should have a generous glob of that paste and a thick smear of real butter.
The Weather Reality Check
Let’s manage expectations. People see paintings by Hendrick Avercamp and think they’re going to be ice skating on canals past 17th-century houses.
That almost never happens anymore.
Climate change has made Dutch winters more about "horizontal rain" than "picturesque snow." If the canals do freeze thick enough to skate on, the country basically stops functioning because everyone calls out of work to hit the ice. It’s called schaatskoorts (skating fever). But realistically, you’re more likely to need a very sturdy umbrella and a waterproof coat than a pair of skates.
Practical Logistics for Travelers
If you are planning to visit, keep these nuances in mind:
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- Public Transport: On December 25th and 26th, trains and buses run on a Sunday schedule. This means fewer connections and earlier end times.
- Book Everything: If you want to eat at a restaurant on Christmas Day, you need to book weeks, if not months, in advance. Many Dutch people eat at home, so the restaurants that are open fill up with tourists and expats quickly.
- The "Museum" Gap: Most major museums in Amsterdam (Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh) actually stay open on Christmas Day, which is a lifesaver for travelers.
The Religious vs. Secular Divide
The Netherlands is one of the most secular countries in Europe, but Christmas remains a weirdly religious-adjacent holiday even for the non-believers.
"Nachtmis" (Midnight Mass) is still a big deal. Even people who haven't stepped foot in a church all year will often attend a service on Christmas Eve for the carols and the atmosphere. If you want to experience this, the Oude Kerk or Nieuwe Kerk in any major city will have stunning services, but arrive early—they get packed.
The Dutch version of the holiday is less about "glitz" and more about gezelligheid. There’s no direct English translation for that word. It’s sort of a mix of cozy, social, and warm. It’s the feeling of being in a dimly lit brown cafe with friends while it's pouring rain outside.
Actionable Next Steps
- Check the Sinterklaas Arrival Date: If you're visiting in November, look up the "Intocht van Sinterklaas" for the specific city you're visiting. It’s a massive parade that’s worth seeing for the sheer spectacle.
- Buy Oliebollen from a Stand, Not a Supermarket: The ones from the street stalls are fried fresh. The supermarket ones are rubbery. It’s not even a contest.
- Book Your Canal Cruise Early: For the Amsterdam Light Festival, the "Water Colors" cruise tickets sell out for the prime evening slots (5 PM – 8 PM) weeks in advance.
- Visit a Garden Center: Seriously. If you’re near an Intratuin or similar large center, go check out their Christmas display. It’s a weirdly localized cultural phenomenon that most tourists completely miss.